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My ‘99‘s carb need a rebuild - leaking out the overflow. I have this spare i picked up years ago and want to rebuild it and replace the current one. Going to use a Dynojet kit while at it. The spare one I have is p/n 27492-96 - the parts fiche calls for 27492-96B for my bike. Anyone know what the “B” changes are?
The different part number suffix and related letter (or lack of) simply identify the year and model of bike on which it was installed from the factory. The differences in them are only the needle, main and low jets, plus some had a bowl with an overflow/drain, others did not and whether it came with a cruise control cable bracket/lever. Otherwise, ALL the parts are the same and totally interchangeable. The numbers mean nothing with the exception of the pre- '91-1/2 carbs which used a different shape bowl and floats.
Most of us have learned the hard way - stick with OEM type jets, spring, needle and don't drill the vacuum port in the slide. If you install any version of a Dynojet or Screaming Eagle version of the same, don't come on here to ask for any help to get it dialed in. Just saying...
You can visit CV-performance and see what they have for your rebuild, or you can buy an inexpensive rebuild kit on Ebay and pick and chose parts you want to replace. Concerning your overflow issue, you might just need to replace your float valve. I bought one of these kits to see the qualify of parts, and I think they work just as well as others. I used the A/F mixture screw and bowl gasket out of my kit. I would recommend it. You can also visit Nightrider.com and read up on the CV performance section. Like others have mentioned, you don't need to drill out your carb.
Circled in pic is what you probably need to replace. You can find this kit from $12-$20. Good luck.
The different part number suffix and related letter (or lack of) simply identify the year and model of bike on which it was installed from the factory. The differences in them are only the needle, main and low jets, plus some had a bowl with an overflow/drain, others did not and whether it came with a cruise control cable bracket/lever. Otherwise, ALL the parts are the same and totally interchangeable. The numbers mean nothing with the exception of the pre- '91-1/2 carbs which used a different shape bowl and floats.
Most of us have learned the hard way - stick with OEM type jets, spring, needle and don't drill the vacuum port in the slide. If you install any version of a Dynojet or Screaming Eagle version of the same, don't come on here to ask for any help to get it dialed in. Just saying...
Isn’t that nice. I’m sure not everyone has that welcoming attitude lol
You can visit CV-performance and see what they have for your rebuild, or you can buy an inexpensive rebuild kit on Ebay and pick and chose parts you want to replace. Concerning your overflow issue, you might just need to replace your float valve. I bought one of these kits to see the qualify of parts, and I think they work just as well as others. I used the A/F mixture screw and bowl gasket out of my kit. I would recommend it. You can also visit Nightrider.com and read up on the CV performance section. Like others have mentioned, you don't need to drill out your carb.
Circled in pic is what you probably need to replace. You can find this kit from $12-$20. Good luck.
CVP has very little in stock - at least insofar as rebuild kits. But I have the James Gasket kit that went in perfectly. As did the Dynojet emulsion tube and jets. But according to some I’m now persona non grata for using them lol.
I’m going to try it out and if it’s no good, I’ll get a set from CV once they get their inventory back in shape.
When my carb overflowed it was a 2 fold issue.
I left the petcock open
the fuel line was breaking down internally and a piece got stuck in the float needle
keeping it from seating. A simple dropping of the float bowl drained and cleared it.
Have had good luck with Yost stuff on performance street engines.
DJ on CV's have a issue of the lighter slide opening up too soon causing a bog down. Had a CV given to me that had a DJ emulsion tube, DJ needle, stock CV slide, was able to mess with the hole size, cut the spring and get the needle clip with washers in the right spot on a warmed up Evo with no issues. Wego AFR reader was used on the fuel side and trial and error on the stock slide coming in requiring taking the carb off several times but the slide would come in like a Mikuni when whacking the throttle.
If having having patience with a touch of stubberness, it's possible to get the complete DJ kit to work but as members noted, simple adjustments to a CV work well and a easy carb to make work.
I also switched mine to a Mikuni, Way better throttle response.
I got tired of screwing with the CV. I couldn't get it to stop popping after the CAM change
unless I cranked up the idle to 1500.
CVP has very little in stock - at least insofar as rebuild kits. But I have the James Gasket kit that went in perfectly. As did the Dynojet emulsion tube and jets. But according to some I’m now persona non grata for using them lol.
I’m going to try it out and if it’s no good, I’ll get a set from CV once they get their inventory back in shape.
Thanks
Lol. I've been on decaf 18 months now, so hopefully no harm done. Certainly none intended.
With exception of the mixture screw, spring, washer and o-ring, all maintenance parts are available thru a dealer.
Originally Posted by RANGER73
When my carb overflowed it was a 2 fold issue.
I left the petcock open
the fuel line was breaking down internally and a piece got stuck in the float needle
keeping it from seating. A simple dropping of the float bowl drained and cleared it.
Yep, I've probably had 100 of these carbs apart and think I've actually replaced the float valve in maybe half dozen of them. It's most always debris causing overflow problems. When I take one apart with DJ parts, I throw them in the trash, measure/weigh the slide spring and the vacuum port in the slide, go back with OEM parts where needed. Never had a complaint with the finished product.
Originally Posted by 1997bagger
..........
If having having patience with a touch of stubberness, it's possible to get the complete DJ kit to work but as members noted, simple adjustments to a CV work well and a easy carb to make work.
Agreed, with the time patience, perseverance and high end diagnostic equipment (which bagger does have), you can trick them up to get where you want to go. But for a bike with less than ultimate max performance mods and especially one you actually ride a lot, a stock CV with correct jetting is very user friendly with decent fuel mileage, throttle response and longevity.
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Carb question
