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I see 2 things, photo in post #7 - cable not hooked up and the throttle plate is partially open, witnessed by the position of the bellcrank. I assumed you were holding it open. (?)
Post #8 photo - it's still partially open and your fingers aren't in the picture...
Take the top half off the throttle assembly on the handlebars and see if you put one or both of the cable ferrules (#18 in the diagram) on backward. The cable end should sit in the countersunk area so none of it sticks out. A "little bit" at the bars equates to a "whole lot" at the carb end.
Buy a new grommet for the manifold too. Otherwise, when you get it figured out and back together you'll likely have an intake leak if you try to use the old one.
Yes, I was holding the throttle plate open & the cable was out because it doesn't reach. In the pic after, the cables were hooked up because I had the bracket disconnected. Manifold grommet is brand new.
Originally Posted by s-glide76
Try switching the cables. One might be longer than the other.
Tried that the 1st time I replaced them, the threads in the grip are different sizes.
I'll check the ferries again tonight after work, but I'm fairly certain they're in correctly. I don't think the throttle could operate smoothly if they weren't.
Yes, I was holding the throttle plate open & the cable was out because it doesn't reach. In the pic after, the cables were hooked up because I had the bracket disconnected. Manifold grommet is brand new.
Tried that the 1st time I replaced them, the threads in the grip are different sizes.
I'll check the ferries again tonight after work, but I'm fairly certain they're in correctly. I don't think the throttle could operate smoothly if they weren't.
The way most of the throttle tubes are made you really can't get that end wrong, but you mentioned aftermarket grips so thought 'd mention it.. Sometimes it's the simple stuff that's overlooked and will drive you nuts.
Looking again, when you "roll" the bracket back closer to correct position, it'll let the throttle plate close and everything will be more relaxed. There really isn't a lot of extra cable slop to work with on these and with the carb out and away from the manifold, that just makes it seem worse.
And, you ran it like that for 2 years so it has to be something you're not doing right this time. Not knocking you, happens to all of us sometimes.
If you "cheated" the cable on last time, you may need to pull the right tank, re-route and make sure the housing is relaxed where it's positioned. I've had mine get in a bind several times by pulling too hard on the cables messing with the carb and they get on the wrong side of the wire bundle, bind and be a pain. Be patient, good luck.
When you say you only run one cable, do you just run the cable to open the throttle and no return cable? Does it snap back if you let off the throttle or do you have to roll the throttle grip forward to close the throttle?
My next guess is the new tube has the holes for the cables closer together than the old one.
Me, I'd just run the one cable.
I think I still have the old broken tube so I'll check that tonight. I had no problems until I replaced it, but it was the same exact grip. Maybe they modified the design?
I'd like to run the return cable because I've had to shut it down a few times, usually after punching it. And I usually ride with peeps that do that...
Otherwise it works if I roll it back.
When you say you only run one cable, do you just run the cable to open the throttle and no return cable? Does it snap back if you let off the throttle or do you have to roll the throttle grip forward to close the throttle?
The throttle snaps back as normal with a single "Pull" cable. The large return spring on the carb is what returns the throttle.
The return (Push cable) is a safety feature in the event that the large spring on the carb breaks. It lets you close the throttle manually and it won't be with a snap either. The return is not necessary for operation. It is a pacification to "protect the children" as are many Federal safety mandates.
To be honest it is not a Push cable at all. It is a Return cable which pulls (although not as responsive) in the other (close the throttle) direction.
The throttle snaps back as normal with a single "Pull" cable. The large return spring on the carb is what returns the throttle.
The return (Push cable) is a safety feature in the event that the large spring on the carb breaks. It lets you close the throttle manually and it won't be with a snap either. The return is not necessary for operation. It is a pacification to "protect the children" as are many Federal safety mandates.
To be honest it is not a Push cable at all. It is a Return cable which pulls (although not as responsive) in the other (close the throttle) direction.
^^this^^^
I rode my 97 FLHT for over 100,000 miles with only one cable on an S&S carburetor.
If buy some fluke you need to close the throttle you have the kill switch on the handlebars.
Hmmm one thing that might be overlooked , are the throttle cables the same for the Butterfly Carbs & the CV Carbs ? if the Butterfly cables are shorter , could be why they dont fit the CV carb thats on the Bike now !?
Last edited by troy montoya; May 14, 2023 at 11:21 AM.
So I took the cable bracket off the carb and was able to get the cables hooked up, but there's no way to reattach the bracket now.
Look where the screwdriver is pointing to to see my issue.
You got the wrong cables. The one you have are for pre-cv carbs..
You don't need the return cable for any reason other than to prevent "my throttle stuck open officer" legal defense purposes.
The dual cable setup is much safer than a single cable setup, it is not just a lawyer gimmick.
If the throttle cable starts to become frayed in the housing you will still have full control of the throttle, and if the cable is not broken the bike will still be safe, the throttle will just be a little more difficult to turn, and you can get off the road safely without any scary incident.
If you only have one cable, you are at the mercy of the kill switch, with no control of the throttle, maybe no big deal if you are on a rural road, but it could be a very dangerous situation on a busy interstate.
Installing and adjusting the idle cable is a simple process.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; May 14, 2023 at 05:27 PM.
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