Sounds like your on your way... As for the timing cup, I went with a cup from Hammer performance.. They're not tin pressed, but a good solid Aluminum unit.. No harmonic distortion.. The reason I replace mine was because it became out of round and took out 2 cam position sensors before I found the issue..

 

More disappointment yesterday...still no timing cup. Was supposed to be here Tuesday priority mail. As i was aware that means very little therse days and both people at the customer service was quick to point out. After tracking it i found it had gone to the postal facility near them then went back to them for whatever reason, of course they gave no explanation, no apologies, no discount...lol. They're allegedly shipping it back out but fedex this time...probably wont see it till Monday. For some reason I had a gut feeling the day i ordered it to order one from some where else just in case but i never listen to me.
I did get the stator swapped and put back together. First time that deep into an evo...very much the same as a twin cam but also different in its own way. I did hit the luck lottery yesterday and the compensator came off without having to drop the clutch basket. It was very close...this was the first time it happened for me...but of course i started worrying about the primary chain being bad lol...its only got just under 38k on it and even the compensator looked great...better than any stock twin cam one ive seen. I also took the time to wire in my tach, put on new bushings on my quick release for the tour pack, hopefully itll rattle a little less. Hopefully the cup makes it here tomorrow...ive got tools everywhere but im superstitious about cleaning up before the project is done and running right lol. Ill update when the cup is in and its running like a scalded dog...

 

If you really did have magnet debris running through the primary it’s a mistake not taking the clutch apart and removing the hub. You want to get all of that out of there. You don’t want that debris getting into your engine seal. Plates, friction disks. Primary seals…

and I’ll say the brutal truth that you’re not gonna wanna hear. If you really did over, tighten the plug to the point that it went all the way through into the interior of the primary, then it’s no longer tapered. And what that means is, it’s gonna leak by that drain plug no matter how much Teflon you stick on it.

i’m under the impression that your stater magnets were coming apart and throwing debris everywhere? Maybe I have that wrong and you mean the magnet on your drain plug got knocked off and is what was kicked around? You also stated you did replace the stater so I’m going to assume the stater magnets were coming apart. Your bike, my friend, do what you want. But I would take it all the way apart and inspect everything. Otherwise 10 miles 100 miles 200 miles down the road you’re gonna have a mess again

 

^ RAINS, you`re in the wrong thread

 

Is there anything in particular you are looking for or just a general comment, as I have my 98RK wiring harness sitting on the shelf as I'm converting mine right now as well?

Griz

 

Sure am.. Sorry bout that. Didn’t mean to give non applicable advice lol.

 

Thanks for asking. Not really. My bike runs perfectly at the moment. My concern is that when something in the EFI system fails, the part I need won’t be available. Also, troubleshooting would be a breeze if a guy had parts to just swap in.

 

Well...ITS ALIVE!!!! I was pretty stunned lol. Fired off first try, died, had to adjust the timing just a bit. I haven't taken a ride yet but it does run different and sounds a bit different too. Ive always heard about the difference between a carbed or injected evo and always thought...sure it does...lol...maybe im just a member of the cult now but i swear theres a difference. Its still a little eerie turning the ignition on and not hearing a damn thing lol. Ill do a few rides and see how it runs and do any carb tuning from there but it sure seems close right out of the box.
The elusive timing cup showed up around noon today after a fiasco, that was the final piece of the puzzle i needed to wrap it up. I still look at the pile of wires and parts in the box and can't believe this thing runs lol...and everything works...sometimes i amaze myself. Thanks again to everyone for getting me through my struggles...very much appreciated by myself and Daisy is particularly happy shes back on two...oops...three wheels.

 

Glad to hear, enjoy and be safe...

 

First ride went well, we made home so thats a victory. It starts right up cold or hot and idles nicely. A few things i noticed that it hiccups through the carb once in a while. Off idle and full throttle it feels like its pulling good...it is a completely stock 80" pulling a sidecar so its not a race bike lol. It seems to lack from 2500 up to 4000. I tried the full throttle test and rolled off the throttle a bit but it didn't gain speed and was loosing speed. It was around 70 when we took the ride and i feel like its running a bit warm. I think all of those things point to a lean condition? Its bone stock right down to the mufflers. I set the ignition to the stock settings in the instructions. Its a mikuni hsr 42 still set as it came other than the idle...which even with stock exhaust and cam is pretty sweet. Only other hiccup was i made an external breather and I expertly located the metal ring on the fliter right at the precise level of the bottom edge of the air cleaner cover. At 2500 to 3000 rpm it sounded like Ma was ringing the dinner bell down on the ranch...lol. That'll be fixed in the morning. Any carb tuning hints are welcome and appreciated.