VOES question
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,168
Likes: 7,676
From: Poolville
I’ve never ran Voes before.. last cam swap I did was a ev27 and put an S&S E on it. It’s hard to start.. and runs hot. I think the carb is set perfect, plugs look good, but a tad hot. I static timed the 2000i and hooked the Voes up like he had before. I didn’t change the programming.
Now I’n debating… should I retard the timing a degree or two or just take that Voes off and program the 2000i as it should be with no Voes?
(Stock 1998 Dyna wide glide with ev27, S&S E, drag pipes with baffles.)
Now I’n debating… should I retard the timing a degree or two or just take that Voes off and program the 2000i as it should be with no Voes?
(Stock 1998 Dyna wide glide with ev27, S&S E, drag pipes with baffles.)
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,168
Likes: 7,676
From: Poolville
@t150vej I understand what the FSM recommends but don't always believe it what the MOCO suggests.. Even the later clutch setup from 98 up says to adjust the screw till all free play is taken up on pushrod.. Then back off adjuster screw 1/2 to full turn and lock down. I personally feel this is too much and is the reason that it's difficult finding neutral at a stop, With it adjusted this way it doesn't seem to move the pressure plate enough to release the frictions enough and this is why I've always set my adjustment to 1-2 flats without burning any of the steels, ever.. And with that it was only moving the pressure plate .068" which I felt was not enough.. To each their own I guess..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Aug 22, 2025 at 03:57 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 4,533
Likes: 3,921
From: Florida
I don’t think it’s lean though. The plugs are even and right. It ran like crap with the 29.5. The mixture screw was just about all the way in.
Last edited by Rains2much; Aug 22, 2025 at 05:17 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,168
Likes: 7,676
From: Poolville
@t150vej I understand what the FSM recommends but don't always believe it what the MOCO suggests.. Even the later clutch setup from 98 up says to adjust the screw till all free play is taken up on pushrod.. Then back off adjuster screw 1/2 to full turn and lock down. I personally feel this is too much and is the reason that it's difficult finding neutral at a stop, With it adjusted this way it doesn't seem to move the pressure plate enough to release the frictions enough and this is why I've always set my adjustment to 1-2 flats without burning any of the steels, ever.. And with that it was only moving the pressure plate .068" which I felt was not enough.. To each their own I guess..
I don't know how i keep mucking up in the wrong thread..
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,441
Likes: 2,637
From: NC USA
There's a lot of the same subject going on. Lol I knew what you were replying to.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 4,533
Likes: 3,921
From: Florida
No worries.. I didn’t want ask around in someone else’s thread so I started my own.. but yes, redundant.
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