1991 EVO
ORIGINAL: riden2low
This site is a great site as I replaced my cam for the first time and didn't know squat. Got a manual, read to make sure that I knew what I was doing, came on the site, asked questions, was told to replace my cam bearing while I had the cam out, needed a bearing puller, came back on the site, was told about the bearing puller from Autozone, replaced everything, even put in new lifters and adjustable pushrods. The next day my 93 ran good and with no problems. Cost, about 500.00 bucks and the satisfaction that I did it my self and the help from the guys here. You can do it, really.
This site is a great site as I replaced my cam for the first time and didn't know squat. Got a manual, read to make sure that I knew what I was doing, came on the site, asked questions, was told to replace my cam bearing while I had the cam out, needed a bearing puller, came back on the site, was told about the bearing puller from Autozone, replaced everything, even put in new lifters and adjustable pushrods. The next day my 93 ran good and with no problems. Cost, about 500.00 bucks and the satisfaction that I did it my self and the help from the guys here. You can do it, really.
- learn new things here everyday.
.
sounds good!....If I do need cam and bearings, would ya'll suggest the ev 27 kit? It comes with gaskets, cam, lifters and adjustable push rods. Looks like I can get it for less than 300 bucks. I want useable power but I want a good sounding lick too.
Wrknman,
OK..great do the work yourself, but take it slow. Here's my 2 cent:
1) Open primary side and check your compensator nut first for looseness. Easiest fix, if it is. Need a big socket (1 1/4...can't remember this instant) and HUGE breaker bar and to lock that sucker down. See if that doesn't fix the noise.
2) If you want a new cam...EV27 are very good cam for the EVO. A proven product, but check to see if the owner did replace the cam (as you previously stated). Usually guys replace their push-rods with adjustable ones when this is done. Just trying to save you money, unless you want to replace the whole thing, and for $300-that's not bad. You want to replace the cam bearing with a Torrington bearing when putting in new cam. New gaskets etc...is the norm.
My bet is on a lifter problem still. Good luck and keep us posted.
dave
OK..great do the work yourself, but take it slow. Here's my 2 cent:
1) Open primary side and check your compensator nut first for looseness. Easiest fix, if it is. Need a big socket (1 1/4...can't remember this instant) and HUGE breaker bar and to lock that sucker down. See if that doesn't fix the noise.
2) If you want a new cam...EV27 are very good cam for the EVO. A proven product, but check to see if the owner did replace the cam (as you previously stated). Usually guys replace their push-rods with adjustable ones when this is done. Just trying to save you money, unless you want to replace the whole thing, and for $300-that's not bad. You want to replace the cam bearing with a Torrington bearing when putting in new cam. New gaskets etc...is the norm.
My bet is on a lifter problem still. Good luck and keep us posted.
dave
Wrknman,
Definitely get the manual for your bike. Well worth it.Unfortunately, you will have to take out the lifters to test them, but that’s easy. How does your tappet screen look? Take it out and clean it. Should be checked periodically. Sometimes unwanted material gets into a lifter and plugs it up, causing them to “collapse;†therefore creating clattering noise.
Before you get internal,check your pushrods (if they are adjustables). You may have a loose pushrod. This would be too good to be true, but start with cheapest and work your way up.
First, let’s review the noise you are hearing. Clattering noise-valve train components (probably what you have); dull knocking noise–usually bearing fault; piston clatter noise is more rhythmic.
Checking your lifters--disassemble to get your tappet assembly. Remove the hydraulic unit out of the tappet roller. Disassemble the hydraulic unit and spray it out good with WD40. Test hydraulic unit per your manual. Usually, there’s some unwanted element, etc…in them that is clogging them up.
Some things to think about when you are putting your bike back together. Proper push-rod adjustments and WAIT until the lifters bleed-down before rolling over the engine to adjust the opposite pushrods. Oil feed holes in towards motor. [/ol]
I would still suggest getting the bike diagnosed by a professional and then fix the problem yourself, saving half the $$, but reading your previous posts, it doesn’t look like you have one to trust.Last thing, call previous owner and ask about what hehad done to the bike. This would help greatly. Good luck
dave
Definitely get the manual for your bike. Well worth it.Unfortunately, you will have to take out the lifters to test them, but that’s easy. How does your tappet screen look? Take it out and clean it. Should be checked periodically. Sometimes unwanted material gets into a lifter and plugs it up, causing them to “collapse;†therefore creating clattering noise.
Before you get internal,check your pushrods (if they are adjustables). You may have a loose pushrod. This would be too good to be true, but start with cheapest and work your way up.
First, let’s review the noise you are hearing. Clattering noise-valve train components (probably what you have); dull knocking noise–usually bearing fault; piston clatter noise is more rhythmic.
Checking your lifters--disassemble to get your tappet assembly. Remove the hydraulic unit out of the tappet roller. Disassemble the hydraulic unit and spray it out good with WD40. Test hydraulic unit per your manual. Usually, there’s some unwanted element, etc…in them that is clogging them up.
Some things to think about when you are putting your bike back together. Proper push-rod adjustments and WAIT until the lifters bleed-down before rolling over the engine to adjust the opposite pushrods. Oil feed holes in towards motor. [/ol]
I would still suggest getting the bike diagnosed by a professional and then fix the problem yourself, saving half the $$, but reading your previous posts, it doesn’t look like you have one to trust.Last thing, call previous owner and ask about what hehad done to the bike. This would help greatly. Good luck
dave
thanks man! I've ordered the manual and it should be here in a couple of days (shipping cost as much as the manual). It'll tell me how to check the lifters huh?.....If it is something like that, would you not replace everything (cam, lifters, push rods, bearing, etc.)? I talked to a 4th wrench today and he said it might be the timing chain slapping around. that they stretch like a car.....he was working on a gold wing and said he worked for the harley dealer near the coast. Does mine have a timing chain? I was under the impression it was gear driven. I'll figure all that out when I get the manual and open this thing up. I can't freakn' wait. I'm wanting to ride!! The best advice for me to follow now is to take my time. I'm just wanting it fixed like yesterday!
Uh, I think you need to avoid that 4th "wrench" and let him stick with Honduhs. Your Evo has no timing chain.
Yeah, find someone that knows what an Evo is supposed to sound like.
Yeah, find someone that knows what an Evo is supposed to sound like.
Wrknman,
WHAT! timing chain? What Harley dealer---coast of Antartica, maybe. What he might be suggesting is your primary chain (left side of bike), inside that nice chrome cover. Heard of "chain slap," which means your chain is loose and hitting your inner primary or primary cover.The primary chain may be loose and the tensioner may have to be adjusted. It wouldn't hurt to check and is easy. The easiest wayis to pull the primary cover off to check the chain tension and adjust.You can also check the chain tension through the smaller inspection cover (oval shape) of the primary cover (aka.cover-chain housing).
Drain the primary fluid before you even open up the cover. See if there is any metal materials in it. I encourageyou to changeall fluids while you are going through your bike anyway. Cheap insurance.
This is something easy you can do while waiting for your manual. If you are keeping the bike for a long time, invest in a parts manual too. One last thing, when you put the primary cover back on, I suggest getting a new gasket and use a torque pattern to put in on.
Unsolicited and off subject: I run Mobil 1 (15-50W)syn oil-Wal Mart has them cheap, and Synthetic gear lube 75W-90 in tranny (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc..), and can just about run anything in primary.I use Harley's primary lube because it's cheap too. Bottomline-change oil at 3K miles (overkill I know), but it'll keep that EVO engine going for a long time. Again, cheap insurance!
Lastly, I can walk you through lifter check when you get to it. Second lastly, check for all loose nuts, bolts, doodads, because they'll make noises too. Look at your exhaust mounts, etc....
Good luck.
dave
WHAT! timing chain? What Harley dealer---coast of Antartica, maybe. What he might be suggesting is your primary chain (left side of bike), inside that nice chrome cover. Heard of "chain slap," which means your chain is loose and hitting your inner primary or primary cover.The primary chain may be loose and the tensioner may have to be adjusted. It wouldn't hurt to check and is easy. The easiest wayis to pull the primary cover off to check the chain tension and adjust.You can also check the chain tension through the smaller inspection cover (oval shape) of the primary cover (aka.cover-chain housing).
Drain the primary fluid before you even open up the cover. See if there is any metal materials in it. I encourageyou to changeall fluids while you are going through your bike anyway. Cheap insurance.
This is something easy you can do while waiting for your manual. If you are keeping the bike for a long time, invest in a parts manual too. One last thing, when you put the primary cover back on, I suggest getting a new gasket and use a torque pattern to put in on.
Unsolicited and off subject: I run Mobil 1 (15-50W)syn oil-Wal Mart has them cheap, and Synthetic gear lube 75W-90 in tranny (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc..), and can just about run anything in primary.I use Harley's primary lube because it's cheap too. Bottomline-change oil at 3K miles (overkill I know), but it'll keep that EVO engine going for a long time. Again, cheap insurance!
Lastly, I can walk you through lifter check when you get to it. Second lastly, check for all loose nuts, bolts, doodads, because they'll make noises too. Look at your exhaust mounts, etc....
Good luck.
dave
Wow, this is like my nightmare all over again.. My 92 had SAME noise, sounded like something rattling around, sometimes there sometimes not; ended up being the inner cam bearing which was NOT changed out when THE DEALER put in a aftermarket cam for the previous owner. Long story short, took out my oil pump, cam, had to split the cases to clean out all the junk that was inside when the bearing completely failed.....
Good luck!!!!!!!!
Good luck!!!!!!!!
ORIGINAL: daven9113
Wrknman,
OK..great do the work yourself, but take it slow. Here's my 2 cent:
1) Open primary side and check your compensator nut first for looseness. Easiest fix, if it is. Need a big socket (1 1/4...can't remember this instant) and HUGE breaker bar and to lock that sucker down. See if that doesn't fix the noise.
2) If you want a new cam...EV27 are very good cam for the EVO. You want to replace the cam bearing with a Torrington bearing when putting in new cam.
dave
Wrknman,
OK..great do the work yourself, but take it slow. Here's my 2 cent:
1) Open primary side and check your compensator nut first for looseness. Easiest fix, if it is. Need a big socket (1 1/4...can't remember this instant) and HUGE breaker bar and to lock that sucker down. See if that doesn't fix the noise.
2) If you want a new cam...EV27 are very good cam for the EVO. You want to replace the cam bearing with a Torrington bearing when putting in new cam.
dave
I hate to say it but I'm betting the dealer put a stock style inner cam bearing back in and you are hearing it self-destruct....






