Bad coil ?
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 195
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From: Cheesehead threw and threw
Went for a 35 mile ride, 70 degree's, no issues and it was just last week were I rode (2) 40 mile rides, 75 - 80 degrees were the first ride the engine stopped 3 times and the second ride, it stopped 4 times and ended up trailering it home and to top it off that weekend I rode the same route once in the morning, once in the late after noon, both around 70 degree's w/no issues. Doesn't seem like that 10 degree difference should be the difference between no problems, to me being on the side of the road waiting for it to "cool" down and start again and go who knows how far, 100 yards to 15 miles before it happens again. Let it run the other day for 15 minutes, played arount w/wires and such to no avail. Last week when I was along the rode I pulled of the nose cone, has Ultima single fire ignition, when I turned key, red light on ignition came on then cycled off, when I turned key off green light cycled on then went off. I beleive it did the same thing when it started. Coil is a Spyke. Not looking at any more hot days here in Wi., probably will run it till time to put up and look at everything over the winter, possibly replacing the coil and ignition. Picked up a can of compressed air to shoot coil or whatever w/if it dies again.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,429
Likes: 2,630
From: NC USA
The green light indicates the VOES is closed and the red light indicates "power on" and self test is complete when it cycles - usually only takes a part of a second. If the red light stays on, that indicates it is at a firing position at the sensor.
If you could borrow a stock coil known to be good, you can use the pulse wire from the front cylinder only and tape off the other to operate in dual-fire mode for test purposes.
And it won't hurt to run it with the timing cover off. That way if it dies, at least you could quickly cycle the ignition switch and verify the unit is in fact getting voltage. If it dies and there are no "blinking" lights, then you'd know to look elsewhere for a power loss (circuit breaker, kill switch, broken wires, etc.)
If you could borrow a stock coil known to be good, you can use the pulse wire from the front cylinder only and tape off the other to operate in dual-fire mode for test purposes.
And it won't hurt to run it with the timing cover off. That way if it dies, at least you could quickly cycle the ignition switch and verify the unit is in fact getting voltage. If it dies and there are no "blinking" lights, then you'd know to look elsewhere for a power loss (circuit breaker, kill switch, broken wires, etc.)
Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
From: High Desert of So Cal
My daughter had the same problem with her sporty. It drove us nuts. It turns out it was a bad hot wire to the coil. It seems there were only a couple of threads of the wire that was actually connected to the ring terminal. This would act like a cold solder joint making it susceptable to heat and vibration. When we went to replace the coil I gave the ring terminal a good tug and it came off in my hand. Replaced the ring terminal and now runs great. Before you start replacing components, make sure ALL your wiring is up to snuff.
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