I don't care for those buttons, just don't like the idea of being able to crank the motor, real easy way to walk it off the jiffystand. My master switch is wired so that the first click to the right is ignition only, no lights. After I start it I turn it to the 2nd detent and the lights come on, no more starter click-click..Kind of like a car, you are not supposed to start them with the lights on.

Doug

 

It certainly makes the job longer, and kind of messy! It's so involved because you have to drain the primary fluid and remove the outer primary to be able to get to the long bolt that goes through the jackshaft and screws into the shaft coming out of the starter motor. You have to remove that long bolt in order to remove the starter motor assembly. You would very likely have to remove your exhaust too, in order to have room to remove the old starter and install the new one. Lots of parts to remove and reinstall - like many jobs on Harleys, I've discovered!

It's like that because when the starter motor is energized, the motion of the starter motor forces the starter shaft out about an inch, which in turn pushes the jackshaft out into the big starter ring gear in the primary to engage it and turn everything over. When you release the starter button, a spring inside the starter pulls the starter shaft (and the attached jackshaft) back out of the big ring gear to disengage the starter. The starter shaft and jackshaft are connected via a housing that has splines inside of it and that fits over both shafts, so they rotate together.

 

"Someone" would get hurt.

 

Doug can you describe how you wired it to work this way?

 

ALL my scoots are wired this way, FOR the SAME reason. I kick mine, BUT I want ALL the juice for Ign sys. Don't need lights til I roll off.

ALTHO, I do feed the "brake light" from the same terminal, as Ign. (Can run with lights off, in non-headlight states, BUT still have brake light.)

 

ridemywg, if your avatar photo is the bike you want to do, remove the tach/speedo dash. There will be 4 breakers toward the front of the housing and the 2 middle ones are ignition and lights. There is a jumper across them - cut or remove it and the lights will only come on when the switch is in the "lights" position.

Turn signals, gauges and brake lights work off the accessory side of the switch which is energized when the switch is in any position other than off or lock. Simple as that. If it's still clicking it can be the ignition breaker or switch, which is no longer avaliable - but there is a fix for that too.

 

Thanks I just happen to have the bike torn down right now and I've seen the breakers , I'll check it out. By the way I generally turn the lights toggle off before starting and can't really say I have any clicking problems but its good to know.

 

Doug, will that work on a 95 Heritage?

 

I had trouble starting my 91 Ultra. I fitted the "push button" on end of starter. What a difference to my stress levels. I did find that the Starter Relay Connection didnt always function because of bad contact between the 2 parts of the Relay. I put 2 plastic ties over the 2 Pcs. of the relay making a tighter fit. That certainly cured the problem
Even very,very slight movement on the lower(male) connector can cause a "non start" situation. Problem I have now is...I have fitted an Ultima ignition system and the bike definitely runs better. Only problem is....it takes quite a number of turns of the starter to "fire" the bike up. I think it is now an Ignition Timing problem. Any suggestions??? Possibly needing advanced or retarded.??? Any suggestions/advice much appreciated. Doug(Scotland UK)

 

Sounds like you need to tidy up some of the connections for the cranking issue.

But otherwise, the Ultima ignition by default causes 3 "dead" cranking revs and for good reason. But if it's clearly taking more than that, especially when warmed up then I'd agree the timing may be too low. You can set it without a light. Just read and re-read the instruction sheet and follow the directions to the letter. It's very straightforward and accurate.