t150vej are you saying that once you cut the jumper you start it in the ignition position
and switch it back to the lights position once the motor is running? Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, but my earlier post was for FLT or FLHT with handlebar/dash mounted switches. The Heritage has a tank mounted switch which is totally different. I don't remember the wire colors, but looking down onto the switch, there are 2 terminals close together at the 11 o'clock position. Disable the jumper across those 2 and that should make it so the lights come on in the "lights" position and are off otherwise.

 

boy these are good suggestions

 

Before we all get to happy, they changed the ignition switches somewhere around 95 for the tank models and I'm thinking, and later for the handlebar/dash models. Besides the assembly, that changed on FLT and FLHT, sometime back then they went to an electronic switch that no longer carries the load(s), effectively using the ignition switch to operate relays. I've not been into one of those "late models" so if your switch has a plug-in connected to it with only 3 wires, my shadetree fix won't work...

 

I'm almost afraid to say this, cause I don't want to jinx myself. BUT... So I disconnected my negative battery terminal (after I forgot and had a giant arcing sparc somewhere, lets not go there.. lol) and started trying to figure out how to get the lights to only operate in certain modes, etc. Well, I did get it, but my starter wouldn't even turn over at all. I took off all the connectors on the ignition switch and went over them with a metal brush. After I put them back on the engine started turning over VERY strong. So far today it has turned over on the first try, and again, VERY strong like. Lets hope there was a slightly corroded connection. (I think the connection had two tabs on the post. It was at the 2:00 position on a 1995 FLSTC ignition switch. May be worth taking all those off, cleaning, and putting back on. Just don't forget to disconnect the battery first!!

 

Always a good idea.... But, remember to put some dielectric greese on the terminals. It will help to "seal" the connection and prohibit moisture and corrosion growth in the future.. Very important on electrical connections that hang out there in the weather..

 

Rufus, what about my 93 FXLR with the switch on the side so close to the rocker box that you can't even clean there? Next time I drop the engine or have to work on the rear cylinder I'd like to fix this. In both positions on the key switch I have lights and ignition, I'd just like to have ignition on position 1 and lights and ignition on position 2.
Thanx Bro,
Buddy...

 

Did a Shovel once.. Seems like it had an ACC, pos-1 and pos-2 and I had to put the ign to the ACC terminal to make it work, but keep in mind this was literally last century, so I'll have to get my hands on a switch and ohm it out... gimme a few days