Starting problems
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
Starting problems
For those of you that have posted about the "click of death", and there seems to be a lot of us that have had this problem with these older bikes, me included, I went ahead and installed one of the push button solenoid starter covers and it works great. I had already replaced the battery cables and several other things. Bike would start 99% of the time with the switch on the handlebars, but every now and then, nothing but a click, then I would have to get off the bike, bend down and jump it at the solenoid with a small piece of wire. This push button eliminates all that. You can reach down and push it while sitting on the bike. Nice to have it there, just in case.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 7
From: North Atlanta Area, GA
For those of you that have posted about the "click of death", and there seems to be a lot of us that have had this problem with these older bikes, me included, I went ahead and installed one of the push button solenoid starter covers and it works great. I had already replaced the battery cables and several other things. Bike would start 99% of the time with the switch on the handlebars, but every now and then, nothing but a click, then I would have to get off the bike, bend down and jump it at the solenoid with a small piece of wire. This push button eliminates all that. You can reach down and push it while sitting on the bike. Nice to have it there, just in case.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,397
Likes: 2,599
From: NC USA
99% of the time the dreaded click stems from the inadequacy of the dash mounted ignition switch, thru which the current for the "line" side of the started relay is routed... not to mention the witches nightmare of other junctions and connections on the circuit.
The bikes with tank mounted ignition switches generally use a 4 pole relay and the "line" side for the starter relay comes from the main breaker. On handlebar dash mounted switches of that era, it comes from the main breaker, then to and thru the ignition switch, thru the accessory breaker then to the line side of the 5-pole relay where it either sends it to the load(2) side, being the starter solenoid, or the load(1) side which feeds all the accessories like brake and turn lights, dash lights, gauges and anti-dive valve. The actual kill switch/coil voltage comes off the ignition side...
The bikes with tank mounted ignition switches generally use a 4 pole relay and the "line" side for the starter relay comes from the main breaker. On handlebar dash mounted switches of that era, it comes from the main breaker, then to and thru the ignition switch, thru the accessory breaker then to the line side of the 5-pole relay where it either sends it to the load(2) side, being the starter solenoid, or the load(1) side which feeds all the accessories like brake and turn lights, dash lights, gauges and anti-dive valve. The actual kill switch/coil voltage comes off the ignition side...
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
99% of the time the dreaded click stems from the inadequacy of the dash mounted ignition switch, thru which the current for the "line" side of the started relay is routed... not to mention the witches nightmare of other junctions and connections on the circuit.
The bikes with tank mounted ignition switches generally use a 4 pole relay and the "line" side for the starter relay comes from the main breaker. On handlebar dash mounted switches of that era, it comes from the main breaker, then to and thru the ignition switch, thru the accessory breaker then to the line side of the 5-pole relay where it either sends it to the load(2) side, being the starter solenoid, or the load(1) side which feeds all the accessories like brake and turn lights, dash lights, gauges and anti-dive valve. The actual kill switch/coil voltage comes off the ignition side...
The bikes with tank mounted ignition switches generally use a 4 pole relay and the "line" side for the starter relay comes from the main breaker. On handlebar dash mounted switches of that era, it comes from the main breaker, then to and thru the ignition switch, thru the accessory breaker then to the line side of the 5-pole relay where it either sends it to the load(2) side, being the starter solenoid, or the load(1) side which feeds all the accessories like brake and turn lights, dash lights, gauges and anti-dive valve. The actual kill switch/coil voltage comes off the ignition side...
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Pa
Where is the best place and price to get the push button solenoid starter cover?
I have a 95 FXDWG
Thanks
Woody
I have a 95 FXDWG
Thanks
Woody
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 7
From: North Atlanta Area, GA
Got mine on eBay. You shouldn't have to pay more than $15 or so. Some of them have a straight pushbutton and others have a small **** on a shaft.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 359
Likes: 2
From: central Mississippi
I ended up getting mine from J&P cycles. Go to their website and type in "push button solenoid" under their search and it'll bring up 3 pages of 'em. Mine was $40 bucks, but as NorthGeorgiaHawg said, they're on ebay also. As with anything for a Harley, you can get 'em plain and black, or chrome with skull, dice, etc. It is a nice little convenient part to have on your bike though. 2 minutes to install. Just make sure your exhaust won't be in the way of it.
