With engine running I can pull front plug wire and engine will die when pulling the rear wire engine slows but continues to run

 

Just for kicks I would check to see that the rotor is in good shape, and the little dent is in the slot in the cam. Make sure the bolt is snug but not to tight, as they will break, and they do not need to be to tight anyway. It almost sounds like your rotor is firing the rear cyl. at the wrong time. If you don't find anything there, I would do like others and change out the ign. module with a known good one. Looks like you have checked all the simple stuff first, which in my opinion is the best way. I might even go so far as to change the rotor. Just sounds like its triggering at the wrong time. Guess the module could do this also. I'm starting to think out loud. I better quit.

 

I have checked the rotor and looks fine not loose and indent is in the correct place. Thats exactly the thought I have it seams to be firing the rear cylinder at the wrong time as if the front cylinder is advancing but the rear is not. So thats what makes me wonder if the module could cause this. Hate shelling out 100+ if not it and can't find one around here for testing. Local Harley shop doesn't have one for evo and wants 134 bucks to order one sheeet thats an expensive test

 

Just spitballing here but this is still dual fire ignition, correct? If so then the modual does not differentiate between front and back, it fires em both the same. You can just switch the plugs wires around at the coil and see if the trouble follows the wires. If the trouble goes to the front cylinder then it's definately electonic, if it stays on the rear then it's probably not, I'm guessing it will stay on the back cylinder. I have to say, if all you tried was done properly then I'd want to swap out the modual because it's easier than what's next.

You mentioned the lifters only have a grand on them, how long has it been running rough. Like Joe28 said, what's the last thing done to the bike, it seems to have had a couple of top end jobs-you mentioned 2200 & 1000 miles ago.

Doug

 

If you want to try another ignition module cheap to eliminate that potential issue, I have the stock H-D module that I took off of Bertha when I installed the Daytona Twin Tec module on her. It's P/N 32426-94 Rev A, with the D advance curve and the 5200 RPM rev limit. It's perfectly good but I just don't need it anymore. I had listed it on eBay but didn't get a bid.

Only thing is that it has the 8-pin Deutsch connector, so check the connector on your module. Not sure when they went from the 7-pin to the 8-pin - but the P/N says 1994 so it might fit.

Picture attached. PM me if you're interested in it. Yours for the cost of shipping - about $5 USPS small flat rate box.

 

Sounds more like the module more and more?????
I hate to "guess" and start swapping parts.
If the front is running good and the rear is the culprit, you can start swapping parts front to rear to see if you can spot it.
(wires, plugs).
But it doesn't seem to be mechanical, so all that leaves is the module......
Joe
If it ain't one thing it's another

 

Test the ignition pick up. Get it hot with a Blow dryer or heat gun. I would before starting to throw money at the problem.

 

I pulled my manual and exausted all test with no luck. I even pulled the rocker covers to check for any sticking valves, broken spring or binding rockers and all looks good there too. I did switch wires to see if the problem went to the front and it did not I'm going to try a module and see what happens. To answer dougs question I rebuilt top end at 2200 miles and did a cam and lifter swap at 1000 miles as far as any work being done to it before this happened Nothing was done just started running rough so I began my search thats when I found the plug wire had been arcing in the coil, Thats what makes me believe that it's electrical. Thanks everybody I will keep you posted.

 

I just got through reading this thread again. I can not see where you changed the plugs. If that is the case, I would do that post haste. Spark plugs will do just what it is doing. It may even look OK, but will not fire under pressure, but will do better when warmed up. You have probably done this already, but since we are kind of stumped, except for the module, I thought I would through it out.

OK; Just read it again and see where you changed the plugs. Oh well!

 

Not normal...find what is causing this and you will find your problem...try running it in total darkness to see if your spark is "leaking" somewhere.