Your top triple tree and fork connection is held in by a fork bolt and a bolt from the top. It is not clamped. What would you expect? The bike was never meant to travel over the speed limit and certainly not 100 mph on a road that is less than perfect at very best. Once that thing start wobeling you may not recover. Either fix it or not, that is your call.

Let me explain: You have this ---->


And you need this, a full top clamp --->

 

Tires ok?

 

Like ridemyevo said, "have you considered a bad tire?"

I would start with a new front tire, then rear tire, then so forth...on and on, doing one thing at a time....testing at low speeds by all means.
My exp from police motorcycles is it's front tire related 75% of the time.
My 2 cents.

 

There seems to be a lot of concern about tires. I cannot say how many miles are on the rubber as I bought the bike used, but the tires look in like-new condition. There is no cupping nor uneven wear. I have run my hands about the tires and do not feel anything which may indicate belt separation.

I should be tearing into it this weekend. I'll start with a visual of frame components (bags off), check spokes, rear shock pressure, then turn my attention to wheel bearings and forks.

It is so violent that it has to be obvious.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the replies.
-John

 

Okay.
I forgot about the spokes, they are suspect too!

 

Hello to all again,

I posted this in the Touring Models forum as well...

I said I would reply, but a new career got in the way - even riding! Goodbye to Phoenix and my Colt, hello Southern California and a helmet.



After:

• Replacing lower sliders (with chrome) along with bushings, seals and 20W oil: The oil was black and the split bushings not aligned correctly.
• Replacing front wheel bearings: Discolored, but tight.
• Replacing front tire; 16" H-D (Dunlop): Cupped.
• Replacing neck bearings: Although preload was OK, they appeared to be original as there were roller marks in the lower race. Both bearings were discolored.
• Inspection of rear swing-arm and alignment showed no flaws.

I am happy to say that it is better... At least it is now predictable. I can lean into a turn without it suddenly breaking into a tank-slapper. However, if I 'push' the bars (countersteer) into a turn or push when changing lanes under hard acceleration, it will wobble a bit. There is also a sense of wobble at very high speed only with the windshield on. The 'push' is a relic of dirt-biking and I have (virtually) overcome that bad habit. I gotta have a windshield, so I will live with that.


So, your suggestions, ~ $700, and some dirty fingernails gave me a dependable and safe scooter.

Thanks to all.
-John

 

Remove any balance weights from the front wheel...

 

John, we can't ride a bike without countersteering! If you don't consciously do it, you will do so subconsciously. Even riding a pedal bicycle involves countersteering. It's all to do with the gyroscopic characteristics of the front wheel.

 

Check out www.glide-pro.com and watch the vid clips. It will open up your eyes about the so called "Bagger Wobble".

I put the isolator/front motor mount kit on along with Custom Cycle s.s. cleave bushings ( inner swingarm), and Progressive Variable Rate front fork springs and she's as tight as a Nun's you know what now.

 

I had the same issue on my 2005 heritage.
o Support bike so it is level and wells off the ground.
o remove any accessory weight, windscreen..etc.
o put painters tape on front fender and mark center, tape string which extends about 3 inches from floor and has a washer (plumb bob).
o put the steering in a straight froward position, then place a piece of tape on the floor about 2 feet long.
o loosen fork stem pinch bolt.
o now tap one side of the fender with your finger until it "falls-away" mark tape on the floor with this point.
o place back to center and do this the opposite direction. measure distance between marks. should be 1.0-2.0 in.
o Tighten or loosen fork adjust nut to bring within measurements. now torque pinch nut. then check fall-away again.
o This is for 2005 Softail all but FLSTSC/FXSTS.
o Now grease and ride. I had to tighten my steering head bearing and add some grease, the problem went away. However, I will be replacing the bearing.- Hope this helped