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Solenoid Starter Push Button-EVO anyone?

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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 10:36 AM
  #31  
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Install the extra relay under the seat and it will fix your problem. You can buy one at autozone for around 7 dollars. Dr. Hess and GaltJunk have detailed instructions on how to do it. I fought with that "dreaded click" for over a year. Tried everything, new battery, solenoid, etc. The 7 dollar relay was the fix, and it's simple to install.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 10:38 AM
  #32  
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Oh yea, I've got the push button on my solenoid, but since I installed the extra relay, I've never had to use it.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #33  
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my dixie wreck
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i used a peace of spring steel and use it for a button under the rubber boot on my solenoid, i"v have the click for a while now on my 1988 stc also, so i order the LEVER ACTION SOLENOID and the 2 relay's that just came in today hope it install's eazy, has anyone use this kind of solenoid,,,,,THANKS
 

Last edited by my dixie wreck; Dec 12, 2012 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
those push button work great- remember that means anyone can start your bike- get a big chain.

go to the crame cams website and get the wiring diagram that kills the headlight when the starter is cranking.

if you are absolutely sure the battery is good ( like took it to autozone for a load test)...then you are headed in the right direction.

if your solenoid has been clicking lots- each click leaves carbon spatter inside the solenoid...open it up, clean it out, clean up the contact disc or turn it over to the clean side.
or replace the disc

Mike
I bought the button for the same reason and when I removed the cover I found the contact disc pitted from arcing. Filed it smooth and now no click!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:54 PM
  #35  
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Over the years I've had my bike I've replaced batteries, relays, switches, circuit breakers, starter contacts, and the entire starter motor, and, in my experience, everything "fixes" the dreaded click problem-for a while. Then it always comes back. I've worked on it so much that I can draw the entire starting/charging circuit diagram from memory.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Asuperglide
I think having headlight on when cranking is the bugger.
The `96 FLHTC is configured so that the current to the headlight is interrupted when the start button is depressed.

The problem is often caused by a bad connection at one of the 8 zillion connections the current must go through to get from the battery to the starter solenoid...

I second the motion for the additional relay, it is how the factory should have done it in the first place. Here`s a link to a thread where we rehashed the subject and learned a few things...

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...ck-sticky.html
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 13, 2012 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #37  
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On my '86 there was a simple jumper wire from the lighting relay to the ignition relay all setting side by side under my instruments. All I had to do is lift one wire and tape it off to unhook the headlights from being on in the ignition position.

This way I can switch to ignition and not have all the running lights draining juice while starting.

Another positive outcome was a higher recharge rate when the headlights are off.

I have been going down the road in daytime and not remembered to switch the ignition to turn the lights back on. I do prefer to have all lights on while riding day or night. It's never been an issue to remember to turn them on at night though... LOL
 
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