Engine Alignment on re-install
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Cruiser
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From: So. California
Engine Alignment on re-install
1995 Road King...
This is the first time I have had to pull my case out of the chassis, for replacement of the rods and crank pin. I will be putting it back in soon, and wondered if the inner primary bolt holes, or the entire engine needs any sort of alignment before I tighten down the 4 main mounting bolts. I will put it in as a short block, as I cant lift complete motor.
How do I add a photo to a post? I tried clicking the icon, and added the url, but nothing shows up?
This is the first time I have had to pull my case out of the chassis, for replacement of the rods and crank pin. I will be putting it back in soon, and wondered if the inner primary bolt holes, or the entire engine needs any sort of alignment before I tighten down the 4 main mounting bolts. I will put it in as a short block, as I cant lift complete motor.
Last edited by stevequad; Oct 27, 2012 at 12:17 AM. Reason: asking how to post photo to thread
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Cruiser
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From: So. California
Got photo...
This is what I wanted to add to my first post.
This is what happens to a crank pin from detonation / pinging.
The noise it made sounded a lot like lifter clatter, but it was the rods being sloppy on the pin.
This is what happens to a crank pin from detonation / pinging.
The noise it made sounded a lot like lifter clatter, but it was the rods being sloppy on the pin.
Last edited by stevequad; Oct 27, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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John
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You really need the manual to align the drive line as it would take a lot of typing to explain it here. I will however tell you how to align the engine and tranny. Leave the mount bolts slightly loose and bolt the inner primary on with no O-ring. When you tighten the inner primary down it will pull the engine and primary into alignment. Then tighten the mount bolts down to torque. Next remove the inner primary, install the O-ring and carefully reinstall the inner primary. Be sure the inner primary, transmission, and engine mounting surfaces are spotless or it will be out of alignment and leak. After you've done this then you can align the driveline as per the manual. It is important to get everything lined up right as misalignment can cause a myriad of problems. Hope this helps.
John
John
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Cruiser
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From: So. California
Thanks John. I did find the manual after a short frustrating search, and it reads just about what you said. Shouldn't be too difficult. I have lots of time to do it correctly, and my way of thinking before I posted here was along the same lines as the book. I just wanted to see if there was anything I was un-aware of.
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Cruiser
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From: So. California
I have been running the motor for 11 years. I have been through 3 different speedometers, so I lost track of the motor mileage long ago. I guess it would be about 40K on the mill. I have done several top end rebuilds, and bore outs.
It went from 3.780 to + .010, then + .020, and now doing a + .032. All new bearings in case, heads re done by Branch here in Long Beach CA. Bennett Performance is doing the crank and rods and putting the case back together. The oil pump was toast with all the metal debris etc. So putting in a new S&S pump. Dropped the oil pan, and cleaned out all the metal, cleaned all the lines. Still have a way to go before I get it all together. Still waiting for pistons.
Thanks for the kind comments.
Steve
It went from 3.780 to + .010, then + .020, and now doing a + .032. All new bearings in case, heads re done by Branch here in Long Beach CA. Bennett Performance is doing the crank and rods and putting the case back together. The oil pump was toast with all the metal debris etc. So putting in a new S&S pump. Dropped the oil pan, and cleaned out all the metal, cleaned all the lines. Still have a way to go before I get it all together. Still waiting for pistons.
Thanks for the kind comments.
Steve