After eight long months I have finally got the bike (1997 Ultra) back together. It had sat for almost seven years. It was wrapped up, but was outside exposed to the elements. I hooked up the battery with the ignition off and key out and the neutral light and oil light came on and almost immediately I saw smoke from under the tank. I took everytrhing apart and inspected but didn't find any burnt wires. I touched the negative cable to the battery again and the cruise cable from the efi lit up like a lightbulb filament and started smoking again. I took the controls apart and found a pinched wire and fixed it. When I connected the battery again, the neutral and oil light came on, but nothing worked except for the horn. I even put the key in and turned it and the two lights stayed on. I'm thinking a bad ignition switch, but would like any input or ideas to test my theory. Thoughts and ideas are greatly appreciated.

 

have you found the problem yet?

 

Yea did you find the problem?

 

Rodent damage????

 

I had to work this weekend and couldn't spend a lot of time. I did start cleaning all of the connections and inspecting wires. As I was removing the wires from the terminals on the 50 amp circuit breaker, one of the terminals broke. I ordered a new one and will pick it up tomorrow. I suspect it is the ignition switch, but not sure how to test. I'm going to study the manual today. Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

Do you have a test light or votage meter?

 

Yes, I have a volt meter, test light and a manual. Now, if I just knew how to use them I would have it made. Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

Well there are two ways to check an ignition switch, hook up the battery turn the switch on and all the leads going to the switch should be hot. You can check this with the test light or the volt meter.
If you need to know how to hook up and test let me know.
Also you can use the ohm meter on the volt meter, pull the switch out of the bike and turn the switch on, you should have continuity through all the prongs on the switch.
You will have the bat, ign, and acc.
Put the meter on ohm put the red on bat, and the black on the ign or acc and the meter should peg.
You should have no continuity when the switch is off.
But if your oil light and horn is working it is probably not your ignition switch, I would look at the relay or fuses first. Have you had a chance to replace the relay yet, this might be your problem..
Condensation can also cause the contact to corrode in the wiring connectors, use a contact cleaner and then dielectric grease on these
Sorry it takes so long to get back there is this international time difference;-)
Wiring is not really that hard to understand, you just need to know what to look for, and were to look, we can figure this out, get back to me when you get the relay in and if replacing it helped.
HC

 

Thanks Harley Cruiser! I started cleaning and inspecting the wires again last night. The night before I broke the terminal on the 50 amp circuit breaker and had to order a new one. It should be here tonight. Once I get everything hooked back up I will follow your instructions and let you know what happens. I will order that relay when I pick up the circuit breaker tonight. Thanks again.

 

As an old automotive wiring guy ., i can first advise you that your wiring troubles are not easily overcome and there can be a lot of time consuming procedures to find the culprit.
The problem is that although you have found the burned/shorted wiring , you must now follow a circuit diagram to find what other damage to other interrealated circuits has been done . This procedure is the one that freakes most people out.
I think i can help if you are inclined to procede.