The 85" kit is a have mate....its just stock jugs bored to max oversize and will only make your bike faster because your wallet is lighter.

A good head job is better value for money....and you can have the heads on your bike ported too if you like ;-)

EV27 is the all-round choice, EV46 if you're more of a boy racer....hell, even a Rumblesticks Sidecar Cam would put a smile on your face.

 

10.5-1 with a EV27 will be detonation prone and will have the timing backed down just to ride in heat. 10.5 needs a cam in 44-46 degree intake closing range to let some air out of the cylinders, EV27 is at 36 degrees intake and a compression builder, better have a $300 starter and hope good gas is available where ever you venture.

Second note is Screamin Eagle heads start working in the midrange area and carry into high rpm's, completly opposite of what a EV27 is designed for.
Spanners speaks wisely one standard jugs cleaned up as the 85" nikasil had some trouble with pistons sticking to them, money saved on the 85" can go to headwork and run compression with a later intake closing cam is a recipe for a lightbike. Most SE heads are setup for .575 maximum lift cams so another spec in cam choice.

EV46 may live with spot on tuning and a EV51 will work for sure, VThunder has good cams and with the SE springs changed to beehives the VThunder Intensity series will make use of the midranged SE heads. Personally 10.0-1 with the stock heads done by a professional, stock jugs bored, EV27 or EV46 would work or step into the 10.5 range with SE heads and do your homework

 

Referring to the 85" kit, it comes with higher than stock CR pistons, but you can have your own cylinders rebored and higher CR pistons fitted for less cost. There is a new thread in here about the EV27 cam, with dyno numbers that is worth reading!

 

Now I am terrified with what I currently have on my decker The heads are shaved, 070 - 080 or so, which brings me closer to 10:1 compression, I'd guess, they are also ported, but my cam is fireball 300, which I thought is a good choice for such a heavy bike.
Never felt overheating though. Opened the motor up last winter, almost no signs of detonation, maybe a slight touch, but I was running on regular gas all that time (didn't know the heads are shaved).
Now I put 065 gaskets on it.

This being said, should I change the cam before I screw up the engine or I'm still alright with 300 on this setup?

 

[QUOTE=jokenroll This being said, should I change the cam before I screw up the engine or I'm still alright with 300 on this setup?[/QUOTE]


If you don't hear the marble rattle at throttle roll on with a big bike, engine will be ok. 10-1 seems to be more forgivable and 10.5-1 needs some homework done with detonation issues.

Honestly, .070-.080 still won't reach 10-1, not going to do the calculator gig right now but it takes 72 cc heads to get to 9.5-1 with stock pistons, you are probaly around that area

 

Now I feel better, thank you 1997bagger! Indy shop scared me saying that with this heads I may be even pushing it towards 10.5.
What you are saying, actually explains why I "almost" had detonation and sometimes dieseling just with regular gas.
So with 065 gaskets I should be alright then!

 

I'd look at a Woods 6, 6H, or even a Woods 8. Also check out Tman's cams for the Evo like the 590 which with that compression would be a real runner and be good for a daily driver. Check them out

 

Thanks for all the advise!

 

This is a good read to give you some base info on building the motor, someone from the forum posted it once abut cant remember who.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/HP2.html
Have fun and hide the receipts.
Cheers

 

avoid crane cams, the case hardening fails and the fine particles of crap will lunch your motor

Andrews cams are far better