Help! Valve train tap on new top end build
#1
Help! Valve train tap on new top end build
So I've commuted to work twice so far on my newly rebuilt top end (all was quiet before now) and pulling up to the house I hear a real loud "TAP TAP TAP" coming from the engine. I got out my stethoscope and it's loudest from the front exhaust pushrod cover tube. I'm hopping it's just a pushrod that's not adjusted right and not a wiped cam lobe... What's the best way to troubleshoot?
I'm thinking I need to figure how to get the front exhaust lifter on the cam base circle, then loosen up the pushrod, then legthen it up until resistance is felt, then I think it's 24 flats for the S&S pushrods. And pray that fixes it. Any other suggestions?
It's a Woods W6 cam, S&S roller lifters, S&S adj pushrods, stock rockers.
I'm thinking I need to figure how to get the front exhaust lifter on the cam base circle, then loosen up the pushrod, then legthen it up until resistance is felt, then I think it's 24 flats for the S&S pushrods. And pray that fixes it. Any other suggestions?
It's a Woods W6 cam, S&S roller lifters, S&S adj pushrods, stock rockers.
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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#6
What works for me is to take out the spark plug and check that the lifter is at the bottom when the piston is at tdc on the firing stroke which can be checked with a drinking straw down the plug hole. Both valves should be closed. I would take out the front pushrod and check to see if it is hitting the cover. This has been a problem on some of the adjustables. It just may be that the pushrod has finally rotated to a place where it is hitting.
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You guys were right. I popped the cover off this morning and the pushrod is loose. The jam nut is still tight, but I easily turn both ends of the pushrod. I guess I need to really crank on the jam nut after I readjust it.
Can anyone confirm S&S pushrods are 24 flats past zero lash? I plan to fix it this weekend.
Can anyone confirm S&S pushrods are 24 flats past zero lash? I plan to fix it this weekend.