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It'll bolt up to the engine but how will you hang it? I'm all for trying it though, but it's just better with your time and money. Haha
The primary side of the bike would not have the tabs already there for a simple bolt on but a frame bracket would do just fine for sure, you know like a clamp...
It'll bolt up to the engine but how will you hang it? I'm all for trying it though, but it's just better with your time and money. Haha
The primary side of the bike would not have the tabs already there for a simple bolt on but a frame bracket would do just fine for sure, you know like a clamp...
Hmmm, at this stage, I may just have to take a look.... Have to wait to see what my engine and taxes look like first...
Hmmm, at this stage, I may just have to take a look.... Have to wait to see what my engine and taxes look like first...
looks like some parts are missing , as for the td pipes I ran them on my 03 TC E Glide loved them right leg stayed cooler & the OL right foot was as well never noticed any power lose
That raises a question. Anyone know why they designed it like that? Why not just make it true dual at the factory, less material.
Yup. Back in the '60s BSA discovered by accident that adding a 'balance pipe' on their parallel twins gave a boost in torque, as well as reducing noise a little. IIRC it was on a US model, with twin swept-up pipes on the same side. It wasn't very long before all the twin manufacturers followed suit, including Harley. Going back to TDs may give similar peak numbers, but with a loss of low/mid range torque. On my 107" Evo that was as much as 15%. Having found that I ain't going to give it back!
True Duals are going to COST me horsepower? I would of thought a true dual set up would breath and flow better and provide a boost in power. I've heard that short "drag pipes" will cost power, but I figured that the long true duals wouldn't hurt a bit, especially with the use of torque cones.
True Duals are going to COST me horsepower? I would of thought a true dual set up would breath and flow better and provide a boost in power. I've heard that short "drag pipes" will cost power, but I figured that the long true duals wouldn't hurt a bit, especially with the use of torque cones.
The proper type of crossover or connection between pipes will help to scavenge(pull) the exhaust during the pulses. As one hole exits, it creates a low pressure in the other. True duals have never really been a good idea..
True Duals are going to COST me horsepower? I would of thought a true dual set up would breath and flow better and provide a boost in power. I've heard that short "drag pipes" will cost power, but I figured that the long true duals wouldn't hurt a bit, especially with the use of torque cones.
No, that is not what we have said! They will actually cost you torque. To repeat my earlier post, in the case of my 107" the headline numbers for TDs and my 2-into-1 are very similar, 102HP/103TQ and 101HP/107TQ respectively. What those numbers do not show is the increase of up to 15% more torque I get in the low/mid rev range. The bike is smoother running, much quicker and a darned sight nicer to ride.
HGM, I have an '08 system on my 1990 bike, bolted right on. Stock header pipes up to '08 will fit earlier bikes, although '08 pipes come with O2 holes, which will need blanks to fill.
I installed the fullsac true dual kit conversion on my 07 and i really couldn't tell of any power loss, it sounds better, now to find the better slip ons for me...I just ordered a set of used SE pipes...Won them on Ebay for $55 shipped...
So.. a set of long 2x2 drags like the Super Trapp brand hurt my horsepower/touque even with torque cones etc?.. Sorry to keep throwing this out there. I've had all kinds of pipes on bikes over the years. MY 93 sporty 883/1200 has short drags (with baffles) on it now and runs like a scalded dog. My old Heritage had the fat V&H pipes and it was fast too (lots of work, etc..).
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