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On my 1996 Ultra Classic, it has air over hydraulic forks, the air reservoir is in the handle bars, and the book shows the air valve to be on the end of the handle bar, under the grip, but which one, and do you have to remove the grip to get to it?
I may just relocate it to somewhere else on the bike.
It seems a bit of explanation is in order! The original air-fork bikes used the front crash-bar as a reservoir. Why they swapped to the handlebar I'm not sure, except it keeps all the fittings out of sight. The stock grips have a hole in the end of the left bar, but contemporary fancy aftermarket grips had chrome screw covers, as Blu has indicated.
The way the system works is that while riding along, minding your own business, the air reservoir in the handlebars provides some of the springing to the forks. When applying the front brake a valve shuts off the bars, reducing the amount of air, hence stiffening up the forks. That provides a degree of anti-dive. As soon as the brake is let off, everything returns to normal.
You should find a conventional tyre valve in the end of your bar. Relocating it, to retain the air function, will require an air-tight set-up of some sort. You can use up to 20psi max. Do not use anything other than a small bicycle pump, or one of the fancy suspension pumps, as an air line will do damage.
Thanks for that explanation! I never knew how the antidive thing worked. So it was in the crash bar before they moved it? Interesting. And as far as putting the old air compressor on the forks? Yea, been there.
Not sure why you guys are fixated on crashing the bikes.... they are engine guards!! Anyhow, on a related topic, anyone got the "volume" needed to make the system work properly? I'm not using my bars anymore and had thoughts of making resiviors, hidden in the fairing. Copper pipe, maybe? Didnt mean to sidetrack, I thought this may be were the thread was headding..
Not sure why you guys are fixated on crashing the bikes.... they are engine guards!! Anyhow, on a related topic, anyone got the "volume" needed to make the system work properly? I'm not using my bars anymore and had thoughts of making resiviors, hidden in the fairing. Copper pipe, maybe? Didnt mean to sidetrack, I thought this may be were the thread was headding..
Well let's work the volume out! A 1" bar has an internal diameter of approx 3/4" and taking into account the bends, a stock Glide bar is approx 4 feet long. As volume = pi x D x D x L / 4, we get 20 cubic inches.
A piece of 2" ID tube 7" long would be similar.
Last edited by grbrown; Mar 25, 2014 at 03:28 PM.
Reason: Maths corrected!
Not sure why you guys are fixated on crashing the bikes.... they are engine guards!! Anyhow, on a related topic, anyone got the "volume" needed to make the system work properly? I'm not using my bars anymore and had thoughts of making resiviors, hidden in the fairing. Copper pipe, maybe? Didnt mean to sidetrack, I thought this may be were the thread was headding..
I have a DOT air tank for a air sifter that is a little bigger than a coke can, if I can find a place to hide it, I am going to use it.
Well let's work the volume out! A 1" bar has an internal diameter of approx 3/4" and taking into account the bends, a stock Glide bar is approx 4 feet long. As volume = pi x D x D x L / 4, we get 20 cubic inches.
A piece of 2" ID tube 7" long would be similar.
Awesome, guess I could have done that. Although math has never been my strong suit..
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