Primary sprockets question
Found this site that makes a modification for our 5 speeds:
http://www.twistgear.net/index.html
Makes the 1st 4 gears, a closer ratio & keeps 5th 1:1. I like the concept & not having to buy a 6 speed. I like the idea of having a little more torque, red light to redlight, & be able to cruise 70-80 mph . Called this company & they still sell the kits, but have not found a lot of people that have upgraded. Thought's? Something to think about.
Ride Safe,
Harold
http://www.twistgear.net/index.html
Makes the 1st 4 gears, a closer ratio & keeps 5th 1:1. I like the concept & not having to buy a 6 speed. I like the idea of having a little more torque, red light to redlight, & be able to cruise 70-80 mph . Called this company & they still sell the kits, but have not found a lot of people that have upgraded. Thought's? Something to think about.
Ride Safe,
Harold
IMO the best way to get a little more torque is to do some engine work.
I don't know what you have already done for your engine but if it is bone stock there are a lot easier ways to get a little more torque than gutting your tranny. Drop in cam for one.
Just my 2 cents.
You're certainly not factory with a .86 or .80 overdrive 6th.
You need to be a little more clear and specific.
Something we've discussed here many times is how the final gearing was compromised, some years and some models worse than others, in order to get the bikes through EPA. In order to make an over geared bike rideable, the transmission then had to be compromise. And, yes, to fit 10,000 different weights or riders and pillions some degree of compromise is required.
But if you are clear on who you are, how you use it, what you want to achieve, it is customisable.
Personally, I'd love a much higher first gear as I am not a hugely fat nor do I carry 200lb passengers. I'd like a nice tight gearbox for moving it around hiway speeds, and then an overdrive to drop in into on long descents or when the wind is behind me.
Last edited by Dun Roamin; Nov 6, 2014 at 01:02 PM.
I have no knowledge of that gear replacement set from that supplier. Try over in the Tech/mechanical forum.... primary/trans/dribbling section.
Found this site that makes a modification for our 5 speeds:
http://www.twistgear.net/index.html
Makes the 1st 4 gears, a closer ratio & keeps 5th 1:1. I like the concept & not having to buy a 6 speed. I like the idea of having a little more torque, red light to redlight, & be able to cruise 70-80 mph . Called this company & they still sell the kits, but have not found a lot of people that have upgraded. Thought's? Something to think about.
Ride Safe,
Harold
http://www.twistgear.net/index.html
Makes the 1st 4 gears, a closer ratio & keeps 5th 1:1. I like the concept & not having to buy a 6 speed. I like the idea of having a little more torque, red light to redlight, & be able to cruise 70-80 mph . Called this company & they still sell the kits, but have not found a lot of people that have upgraded. Thought's? Something to think about.
Ride Safe,
Harold
No Thanks. I'll start my own thread, here. Get better answers.
Ride Safe,
Harold
Ah ... another Evo-Patriot, loyal to the forum!
I was looking at the Johnson Engineering TwistGear ratios pager and whereas I can say nothing about life with the actually product, the theory look fine ... a similar solution to what we were talking about above but even moreso.
They resolve the problem of the too short/low first gear. In fact, they slightly raise the first four gears meaning that first gear is longer and first to fourth are all a higher (same rpm/higher road speed, same speed/lower rpm) but closer together. Fifth, though, is still the same at a 1:1 ratio ... which means you would have to set that gearing by changing the belt pulleys, or primary, e.g. going to 34T front, and/or a 65T or 61T rear. And there's more of a drop into it, 4th to 5th, so it would feel like an overdrive whilst having the technical advantages of a direct drive.
I'd say it was a good design. Only folks it might not suit are those pulley extremely heavy weights.
FL with OE compared to TwistGear 25/36 primary and 32/70 final
........................ Stock .... Twistgear
1st gear ratio ... 10.11 .... 11.12
2nd gear ratio .... 6.96 ...... 7.65
3rd gear ratio .... 4.95 ...... 5.45
4th gear ratio .... 3.86 ...... 4.25
5th gear ratio .... 3.15 ...... 3.15
Basically, you have gears where you want them, e.g. accelerating up a ramp, over taking, power through the twisties, but not where you don't want, e.g. spinning rear wheel taking off or changing gear half way across a junction. But if you want real low cruising rpm, you need to look elsewhere or change your drive as well.
25/36 primary + 32/70 final = 3.15 final drive ratio, not 2.94 as stated above. 34/70 would be 2.96 ... if you want to go lower, change the rear pulley.
I was looking at the Johnson Engineering TwistGear ratios pager and whereas I can say nothing about life with the actually product, the theory look fine ... a similar solution to what we were talking about above but even moreso.
They resolve the problem of the too short/low first gear. In fact, they slightly raise the first four gears meaning that first gear is longer and first to fourth are all a higher (same rpm/higher road speed, same speed/lower rpm) but closer together. Fifth, though, is still the same at a 1:1 ratio ... which means you would have to set that gearing by changing the belt pulleys, or primary, e.g. going to 34T front, and/or a 65T or 61T rear. And there's more of a drop into it, 4th to 5th, so it would feel like an overdrive whilst having the technical advantages of a direct drive.
I'd say it was a good design. Only folks it might not suit are those pulley extremely heavy weights.
FL with OE compared to TwistGear 25/36 primary and 32/70 final
........................ Stock .... Twistgear
1st gear ratio ... 10.11 .... 11.12
2nd gear ratio .... 6.96 ...... 7.65
3rd gear ratio .... 4.95 ...... 5.45
4th gear ratio .... 3.86 ...... 4.25
5th gear ratio .... 3.15 ...... 3.15
Basically, you have gears where you want them, e.g. accelerating up a ramp, over taking, power through the twisties, but not where you don't want, e.g. spinning rear wheel taking off or changing gear half way across a junction. But if you want real low cruising rpm, you need to look elsewhere or change your drive as well.
25/36 primary + 32/70 final = 3.15 final drive ratio, not 2.94 as stated above. 34/70 would be 2.96 ... if you want to go lower, change the rear pulley.
Last edited by Dun Roamin; Nov 7, 2014 at 06:45 AM.
What I was referring to was that most early evo'e run a 2.94:1 final drive, (overall in 5th) from the factory,
and correct me if i'm wrong but a 10.11:1 (1st gear)would have less rpm at 30 mph than an 11.12:1 @ 30 mph. Wouldn't it? And normally a taller gear would be a higher number with higher rpm at the same speed???
and correct me if i'm wrong but a 10.11:1 (1st gear)would have less rpm at 30 mph than an 11.12:1 @ 30 mph. Wouldn't it? And normally a taller gear would be a higher number with higher rpm at the same speed???
Ah ... another Evo-Patriot, loyal to the forum!
I was looking at the Johnson Engineering TwistGear ratios pager and whereas I can say nothing about life with the actually product, the theory look fine ... a similar solution to what we were talking about above but even moreso.
They resolve the problem of the too short/low first gear. In fact, they slightly raise the first four gears meaning that first gear is longer and first to fourth are all a higher (same rpm/higher road speed, same speed/lower rpm) but closer together. Fifth, though, is still the same at a 1:1 ratio ... which means you would have to set that gearing by changing the belt pulleys, or primary, e.g. going to 34T front, and/or a 65T or 61T rear. And there's more of a drop into it, 4th to 5th, so it would feel like an overdrive whilst having the technical advantages of a direct drive.
I'd say it was a good design. Only folks it might not suit are those pulley extremely heavy weights.
FL with OE compared to TwistGear 25/36 primary and 32/70 final
........................ Stock .... Twistgear
1st gear ratio ... 10.11 .... 11.12
2nd gear ratio .... 6.96 ...... 7.65
3rd gear ratio .... 4.95 ...... 5.45
4th gear ratio .... 3.86 ...... 4.25
5th gear ratio .... 3.15 ...... 3.15
Basically, you have gears where you want them, e.g. accelerating up a ramp, over taking, power through the twisties, but not where you don't want, e.g. spinning rear wheel taking off or changing gear half way across a junction. But if you want real low cruising rpm, you need to look elsewhere or change your drive as well.
25/36 primary + 32/70 final = 3.15 final drive ratio, not 2.94 as stated above. 34/70 would be 2.96 ... if you want to go lower, change the rear pulley.
I was looking at the Johnson Engineering TwistGear ratios pager and whereas I can say nothing about life with the actually product, the theory look fine ... a similar solution to what we were talking about above but even moreso.
They resolve the problem of the too short/low first gear. In fact, they slightly raise the first four gears meaning that first gear is longer and first to fourth are all a higher (same rpm/higher road speed, same speed/lower rpm) but closer together. Fifth, though, is still the same at a 1:1 ratio ... which means you would have to set that gearing by changing the belt pulleys, or primary, e.g. going to 34T front, and/or a 65T or 61T rear. And there's more of a drop into it, 4th to 5th, so it would feel like an overdrive whilst having the technical advantages of a direct drive.
I'd say it was a good design. Only folks it might not suit are those pulley extremely heavy weights.
FL with OE compared to TwistGear 25/36 primary and 32/70 final
........................ Stock .... Twistgear
1st gear ratio ... 10.11 .... 11.12
2nd gear ratio .... 6.96 ...... 7.65
3rd gear ratio .... 4.95 ...... 5.45
4th gear ratio .... 3.86 ...... 4.25
5th gear ratio .... 3.15 ...... 3.15
Basically, you have gears where you want them, e.g. accelerating up a ramp, over taking, power through the twisties, but not where you don't want, e.g. spinning rear wheel taking off or changing gear half way across a junction. But if you want real low cruising rpm, you need to look elsewhere or change your drive as well.
25/36 primary + 32/70 final = 3.15 final drive ratio, not 2.94 as stated above. 34/70 would be 2.96 ... if you want to go lower, change the rear pulley.
What I was referring to was that most early evo'e run a 2.94:1 final drive, (overall in 5th) from the factory,
and correct me if i'm wrong but a 10.11:1 (1st gear)would have less rpm at 30 mph than an 11.12:1 @ 30 mph. Wouldn't it? And normally a taller gear would be a higher number with higher rpm at the same speed???
and correct me if i'm wrong but a 10.11:1 (1st gear)would have less rpm at 30 mph than an 11.12:1 @ 30 mph. Wouldn't it? And normally a taller gear would be a higher number with higher rpm at the same speed???
But his is running 32/70 at present (3.15).
Far be it for me to disagree old chap, but the Twistgear ratios are the opposite - they are lower ratios than stock and 1-4 will give lower road speeds than the stock set, at any given rpms. First will be perfect for lugging a fully loaded bike around tight Alpine hairpins!
Yes that is correct they are a taller or higher ratio and would work for him as I stated earlier but I'm not so sure of the quality or strength of that unit. And could not recommend based on my knowledge of that unit.
Far be it for me to disagree old chap, but the Twistgear ratios are the opposite - they are lower ratios than stock and 1-4 will give lower road speeds than the stock set, at any given rpms. First will be perfect for lugging a fully loaded bike around tight Alpine hairpins!











