Cams in a 103?
#1
Cams in a 103?
I have an 03 SERK that came with the stock 103 . . . EFI, with a PC V on it.
Thinking about dropping a set of cams into it . . .
How hard is it? (I do a lot of my own work, got a friend with a shop who will let me work there.)
And what cams from where? Probably ought to convert to hydraulic shoes when I am in there, maybe?
Special tools?
Don't want to do any head work.
Thanks . . .
Thinking about dropping a set of cams into it . . .
How hard is it? (I do a lot of my own work, got a friend with a shop who will let me work there.)
And what cams from where? Probably ought to convert to hydraulic shoes when I am in there, maybe?
Special tools?
Don't want to do any head work.
Thanks . . .
#2
Common question on this forum. Cam selection is very subjective and really depends on how you ride, where you want the power and how aggressive you want to get with the cam profile. Cams with an intake close between 38*-42* will work depending on how aggressive you want to be with compression. This may depend on altitude, available fuel and the skills of your tuner. You will get many answers on cam selection, the Woods 555 is very popular on this forum but there are many other choices like , Andrews 26, 37 and 54, TMan 525/555/555C/590, SnS570, Woods W6, to name a few. I am partial to Andrews and TMan but there are many to choose from.
Not a difficult job at all. The first thing you should get is the service manual. No special tools are needed, at least I don't use any. You can get a blind hole puller from AutoZone if they have the right size collet to pull the inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s; you can install the new inner cam bearings with the old cam shaft. You can stand on the rear brake to loosen/tighten the pinion and rear cam bolts and you can follow the service manual procedure for aligning the oil pump. You will need access to a press to press the cams out of the old cam bearings. Many of us have been successul using the "freezer/oven" method to install the new outer bearings on the cams and installing the new cam/bearing assembly into the cam plate but if that doesn't work, you can use the press.
Adjustable pushrods are likely in the picture as many of the cams will have different base circles and the OEM pushrods will not work. Many don't have a problem snapping in the pushrod retaining clips but I do. I have one of the installer tools and still find snapping in those clips a real PITA.
If your budget will allow the upgrade to the SE Hybrid cam plate conversion, it is definitely worth the $$. That's the sort version, the devil is in the details.
Not a difficult job at all. The first thing you should get is the service manual. No special tools are needed, at least I don't use any. You can get a blind hole puller from AutoZone if they have the right size collet to pull the inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s; you can install the new inner cam bearings with the old cam shaft. You can stand on the rear brake to loosen/tighten the pinion and rear cam bolts and you can follow the service manual procedure for aligning the oil pump. You will need access to a press to press the cams out of the old cam bearings. Many of us have been successul using the "freezer/oven" method to install the new outer bearings on the cams and installing the new cam/bearing assembly into the cam plate but if that doesn't work, you can use the press.
Adjustable pushrods are likely in the picture as many of the cams will have different base circles and the OEM pushrods will not work. Many don't have a problem snapping in the pushrod retaining clips but I do. I have one of the installer tools and still find snapping in those clips a real PITA.
If your budget will allow the upgrade to the SE Hybrid cam plate conversion, it is definitely worth the $$. That's the sort version, the devil is in the details.
#3
Common question on this forum. Cam selection is very subjective and really depends on how you ride, where you want the power and how aggressive you want to get with the cam profile. Cams with an intake close between 38*-42* will work depending on how aggressive you want to be with compression. This may depend on altitude, available fuel and the skills of your tuner. You will get many answers on cam selection, the Woods 555 is very popular on this forum but there are many other choices like , Andrews 26, 37 and 54, TMan 525/555/555C/590, SnS570, Woods W6, to name a few. I am partial to Andrews and TMan but there are many to choose from.
Not a difficult job at all. The first thing you should get is the service manual. No special tools are needed, at least I don't use any. You can get a blind hole puller from AutoZone if they have the right size collet to pull the inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s; you can install the new inner cam bearings with the old cam shaft. You can stand on the rear brake to loosen/tighten the pinion and rear cam bolts and you can follow the service manual procedure for aligning the oil pump. You will need access to a press to press the cams out of the old cam bearings. Many of us have been successul using the "freezer/oven" method to install the new outer bearings on the cams and installing the new cam/bearing assembly into the cam plate but if that doesn't work, you can use the press.
Adjustable pushrods are likely in the picture as many of the cams will have different base circles and the OEM pushrods will not work. Many don't have a problem snapping in the pushrod retaining clips but I do. I have one of the installer tools and still find snapping in those clips a real PITA.
If your budget will allow the upgrade to the SE Hybrid cam plate conversion, it is definitely worth the $$. That's the sort version, the devil is in the details.
Not a difficult job at all. The first thing you should get is the service manual. No special tools are needed, at least I don't use any. You can get a blind hole puller from AutoZone if they have the right size collet to pull the inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s; you can install the new inner cam bearings with the old cam shaft. You can stand on the rear brake to loosen/tighten the pinion and rear cam bolts and you can follow the service manual procedure for aligning the oil pump. You will need access to a press to press the cams out of the old cam bearings. Many of us have been successul using the "freezer/oven" method to install the new outer bearings on the cams and installing the new cam/bearing assembly into the cam plate but if that doesn't work, you can use the press.
Adjustable pushrods are likely in the picture as many of the cams will have different base circles and the OEM pushrods will not work. Many don't have a problem snapping in the pushrod retaining clips but I do. I have one of the installer tools and still find snapping in those clips a real PITA.
If your budget will allow the upgrade to the SE Hybrid cam plate conversion, it is definitely worth the $$. That's the sort version, the devil is in the details.
I only have 5700 miles on the scoot . . . the SE Hybrid cam plate conversion makes sense . . . especially while I am mucking around in there . . . but thinking, dollar wise, I might wait until 20K miles on it or when the shoes really need replacing.
So, I guess what I am looking at are:
1. inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s
2. Adjustable pushrods (SE?)
3. Get the blind hole puller from AUtozone
4. Pick the cam of choice:
I want a cam that will not require changing out anything else.
So, with this plan . . . will performance really increase when I am already running the stock 103? What will I get for the time, trouble, and bucks?
#4
The compression on those 103"ers are sitting ducks for an Andrews 26 set.
9.6 cr.
HUGE low-mid range gain.
Scott
9.6 cr.
HUGE low-mid range gain.
Scott
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HILLSIDE MOTORCYCLE & MACHINE, INC.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPEED & SERVICE CENTER
5225 SOUTH MAIN ST., MUNNSVILLE, N.Y. 13409
Sales/Support 315-495-6650
www.hillsidecycle.com
Walk-in Retail Showroom
Complete H-D Machine Shop
Case & cylinder boring
Complete Cylinder Head Shop
High-Performance Engine Kits
Crank Rebuilding
Direct Link & PowerVision Tuning
Goodson HD Tooling Manufacturer
Maxton Mile World Record
4500 sq ft. facility
OVER 35 YEARS OF H-D ENGINE BUILDING.
See us on Facebook.
#5
. . . but thinking, dollar wise, I might wait until 20K miles on it or when the shoes really need replacing.
So, I guess what I am looking at are:
1. inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s
2. Adjustable pushrods (SE?)
3. Get the blind hole puller from AUtozone
4. Pick the cam of choice:
I want a cam that will not require changing out anything else.
So, with this plan . . . will performance really increase when I am already running the stock 103? What will I get for the time, trouble, and bucks?
So, I guess what I am looking at are:
1. inner cam bearings which you should change to Torrington B148s
2. Adjustable pushrods (SE?)
3. Get the blind hole puller from AUtozone
4. Pick the cam of choice:
I want a cam that will not require changing out anything else.
So, with this plan . . . will performance really increase when I am already running the stock 103? What will I get for the time, trouble, and bucks?
SE18404-08 are the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and orings.
Scott has picked your cam for you, so you are ready to roll up your sleeves and go to work.
Don't know what pipes you have but assume you have upgraded the exhaust and air cleaner all ready and the motor should be making about 90TQ/70HP. With a good tune I would expect 105TQ/85-90HP; round and rough numbers; YMMV. Don't fret about the peak numbers. Like Scott says, the low and mid range (where you ride) increase with the TW26 will be real nice; let the butt dyno be your guide.
#6
Thanks, Scott
#7
If you wait on the SE Hybrid cam plate, watch those tensioner shoes; I have seen them go suddenly with less than 10K miles; bad juju when that happens, so don't forget about them and keep an eye on them.
SE18404-08 are the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and orings.
Scott has picked your cam for you, so you are ready to roll up your sleeves and go to work.
Don't know what pipes you have but assume you have upgraded the exhaust and air cleaner all ready and the motor should be making about 90TQ/70HP. With a good tune I would expect 105TQ/85-90HP; round and rough numbers; YMMV. Don't fret about the peak numbers. Like Scott says, the low and mid range (where you ride) increase with the TW26 will be real nice; let the butt dyno be your guide.
SE18404-08 are the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and orings.
Scott has picked your cam for you, so you are ready to roll up your sleeves and go to work.
Don't know what pipes you have but assume you have upgraded the exhaust and air cleaner all ready and the motor should be making about 90TQ/70HP. With a good tune I would expect 105TQ/85-90HP; round and rough numbers; YMMV. Don't fret about the peak numbers. Like Scott says, the low and mid range (where you ride) increase with the TW26 will be real nice; let the butt dyno be your guide.
And thanks for the kit number on the push rods . . . I think I will give this a try this summer!
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#8
We have 2 in stock, most of the time, as well as all other pieces/parts for a trouble-free installation, when you decide.
Scott
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