I am doing my research for this winter's project - a 96" to 103" conversion (plus cams, lifters, tappets, head work, etc). I started reading the service manual to gain an understanding of every aspect of the R&R for the top and lower end. I noticed there is a H-D tool for everything little task! I also learned that those Kent Moore tools are difficult to come by - H-D won't sell them to me.

A couple of the tools George's Garage has, but here is my question: do you really need a special tool to remove the rear rocker box screws, or the throttle body fasteners, etc? I have a good selection of Snapon 1/4" drive tools I use on very tight spots on aircraft, and it seems to me a lot of what the manual calls out in terms of special tooling is overkill. Then again, I have never performed this work, hence my question. (My favorite special H-D tool was the one in the service manual that an owner can fabricate from a binder clip. No Kent Moore needed there.)
One tool in particular I was wondering about it the piston pin cir-clip remover/installer. How difficult are those clips to R&R?

 

There is a work around for every "special tool" requirement. You will need a puller to remove the inner cam bearings and some will tell you that you need a pusher to install the new inner cam bearings. You can use the AutoZone blind hole puller to remove and old cams to install by tapping them in. AutoZone doesn't always have the right size collet but with the right size collet, the AZ puller works fine. There is a guy, Gary Beatty that sells a inner cam bearing R/R tool for $85; he makes the tool. Email beattygw@sbcglobal.net for details if interested. There is also an R/R tool for sale on Ebay for $104.

The list includes the cam gear locking tool but you can put the trans in 1st and hold the rear brake and R/R those bolts; they are not torques too tight. The oil pump alignment pins are cheap and IMHO, handy. You can align the oil pump but you can also align the rocker boxes by using them in the breather fastener holes.

You will need a ring compressor and if the piston pin circlips are H-D, they can be manhandled however if they are aftermarket, say CP or the clips are the spiral type, get ready for a fight, your vocabulary will be tested. I use a 3/4" copper coupling and a 5/8" socket to install the standard OEM type circlip but a different technique is requre for those nasty spiral b@sta@rds. I have some photos of the coupling/socket but they file size is too big to attach. Bsically, you force the circlip into the coupling and push it into place with the socket which fits inside the coupling. I like using ring expander pliers to install rings but most don't bother.

You need two good torque wrenches; foot pound and inch pound. I would also recommend the new H-D tool for installing the pushrod tube circlips; it works like a charm. It may be just me but I have never been able to install those clips with finger and screwdrive as shown in the servic manual. I have used the Georges Garage tool but the new H-D tool is sooooo much better; it will save your knuckles. You slip and come in tontace with the cylinder fins the wrong way and you will be taking a break to stop the bleeding. The new H-D tool is a bit pricey but if are in and out of a TC cam chest on a regular basis, worth every penney.

This guy pbarth@cableone.net used to rent all the tools for the work you will be doing. Not a bad deal for a one time DIY project but I have no idea if he still does it.

 

Thanks DJL.

I have torque wrenches, all the standard snap-on hand tools. I also have piston ring compressors (H-D pistons are not much smaller than aircraft pistons), mics, calipers, feeler gages, etc, etc. I purchased the cam locking tool and the oil pump aligning pins. What I was wondering about, in terms of "special" H-D, you see all kinds of tools in the service manual, like a HD-42322, piston support plate. Good grief, I can make one of those in five minutes using a piece of wood. Or, the HD-42320 wrist pin remover. On aircraft, we just use a bronze drift to tap them out with a little heat if they're sticky. Another one that looks like a waste is the cam holder (HD-47956). Why not just use the old cam plate to hold the cams if one is so inclined?

What I was really wondering about is the HD-42317 circlip tool. Aircraft don't use any kind of wrist pin retention. My new pistons will be forged Wisecos. Yes, I absolutely intend to replace the inner cam bearings. (I can't believe Harley couldn't just charge me another $20 when I bought the bike and have included the B-168s.) For $104 I think I'll check ebay.

Thanks DJL. As always, you rock. What's the p/n of the 'new' H-D tool you are referring to?

 

The PN is 94086-09, page 90 of the SE Performance Catalog. I thought I had really stepped on my d!ck when I first tried to use the tool but once I "read the instructions" the clip snapped in the blink of an eye.

The inner cam bearing R/R tool and oil pump alignment pins are the only ones I have and use. The piston support plate is pretty cool but I have laid two box end wrenches across the case bore and acheived the same thing. You don't need the circlip tool but they can be a PITA, if you PM me your email address, I will send you the "how to" photos of the copper coupling/socket method I use.

The Ebay tool is a good buy.

 

most special factory tools are poorly made.. the dealerships don't even use them. i have had my 01eg all the way down to tiny pieces before, never picked up one special tool.. they do make a wedge for holding the primary chain while loosing/tighting the retaining nuts, it is kind of handy if you dont have a good impact gun, or if you want to torque the nuts back on.