Any tricks to get lifters to bleed
#22
Actually I have better luck from the bottom up. I just recently installed S&S and made sure they would bottom out before putting in and then adjusted out all play then backed of on the pushrods 13 flats which translates to approximately .067" or in reverse .133" preload. started right up and only took a few minutes to pump up. after a 60 mile ride I went back in and adjusted all pushrods another flat and everything went perfect. no noise any where. Scott at Hillside actually preloads .140" to .150" . by the way my S&S pushrods are .031" per 1 revolution of adjustment.
#23
Get a manual and pull the rockers box's and reverse the procedure to install. Longest pushrod front exhaust (green), next shorter rear exhaust (purple), next shorter front intake (yellow) and the shortest is the rear intake (blue).
#24
anyone else having this issue too?
Bumping this to see if anyone else has dealt with this since the OP's experience, also wondering what the OP's outcome was going back to the woods.
I've got a set right now doing this with 2 out of the 4 lifters (Woods). I've probably installed a dozen sets of Woods Directionals and this is the first set to do this, but it's got me seriously pissed off.
I have this bike promised out today, done, and I let it sit all night and this AM those 2 were still fully pumped/hard as a rock with no lash to be had in the pushrod (no spin). They're NOT collapsed/bottomed, as they're holding the valves OPEN.
I've got a set right now doing this with 2 out of the 4 lifters (Woods). I've probably installed a dozen sets of Woods Directionals and this is the first set to do this, but it's got me seriously pissed off.
I have this bike promised out today, done, and I let it sit all night and this AM those 2 were still fully pumped/hard as a rock with no lash to be had in the pushrod (no spin). They're NOT collapsed/bottomed, as they're holding the valves OPEN.
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