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Trying to follow a procedure for setting the mainshaft end play on a 1945 3-bolt
It is recommended that you start with a .078 spacer on the mainshaft to get a starting point.
The end play should ultimately be about .005.
I get about .075 end play with the .078 spacer!!!
Even if I use the thicker spacers supplied in the kit, there is no way I can get to .005.
Part of the problem could be the bushing in the after-market clutch gear.
The bushing in the after-market gear is recessed about .050 deeper than the bushing in the original gear.
That allows the mainshaft to sit farther into the clutch gear, which increases the end play.
I only have the two gears, so I don't know what the correct bushing recess should be.
What are my options?
- I could look for a different clutch gear, but a different one could be better or worse.
- Can I use two spacers if that gets me to a good end play?
- Should I try to get a custom spacer?
- Can I use two 2292-33 (new number is 35340-33) thrust washers to take up slack on the cover end of the mainshaft? (assuming the drive sprocket would still fit on the shaft).
ok if you stack washer you end up not being able to shift it - seen that done - this is the exact reason you were suggested to - only buy usa or x military - its not a joke that some of the suppliers don't give a rats *** it does not work what they sell
and swaping the bushing from the real gear to the communist gear is even iffier and they use a wooden ruler for things like that
No comments yet, so I went ahead and 'shaved" a second washer to take up the extra end play.
I asked the clutch gear seller to measure the bushing recess on another gear and so far he is blowing me off.
If anybody has a clutch gear sitting around, please measure the bushing recess. I am measuring from the top of a tooth down into the bore to the bushing. I attached a picture with a line drawn to illustrate the measurement. The old gear was .350" and the new gear was .410, so that is a .060 difference between the two. That .060 is what adds to the end play..
I would hate to buy another clutch gear, as this one looks good otherwise and I'm happy with the fit in the left side big race.
Johnjzjz,
I didn't see your post before I typed my last one.
Yeah, I haven't had much luck finding US made parts at all.
With regard to your thoughts on stacking, both washers are covered by the clutch gear recess and nothing will have to slide over them for a shift.
I wonder if I could get away with that arrangement?
Shoulda just bought a 4 speed!
the very last of this was 1973 in a trike for mainly police so this stuff is really coming to an end sad to say
I don't have any special places like we had years back to get stuff - sorry I cant help with pieces and locations only info on different repairs
but I am reaching out maybe in time I will get some hits - as I have a 1946 I am also doing for a customer - as a bobber but it needs engine trans and brake work
John,
Good luck - lots of junk out there.
I bought two gears from this vendor and they both had issues.
The other gear had a bushing that was two small - wouldn't go on the shaft.
I only paid $31 for it, so I got what I paid for. I'll put it on the lathe and take a few thousands of of the ID.
KInda fun, but I would rather just have it fit and not have to fool with it.
BTW - David Sarafan doesn't fool with his web site anymore. He has a few things on ebay
his dad have bought heavy in the military surplus when it was bulk weight metal buys - 46 47 to now its most likely almost gone but scraps but they had train loads of stuff went all over the world 75 years now
been doing this way to long can remember buying brand new transmissions for 45s for a few hundred
Give Ralph Camp in SC a call, he runs Ralph's Racing and builds these transmission for the Vintage Racing guys. He has given me great advice over the phone before and I believe he has a parts stash.
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Mainshaft end play problem
