Help with engine noises.
I havea 95CI bike with SE203 cams.
Like a dumbass, I put 87 in it yesterday while I was thinking about something else and not paying attention. On the 112 mile ride home from VA to WV, I would get a sound that was louder on the left side of the bike than the right that sounded like someone hitting a thin piece of metal with a screw driver head while accelerating hard from low in the rev range.
What I did notice though, was that while at idle the kock noise went away. There was a knocking noise at idle that that almost sounded like someone drumming on a wood block. The indie said that was normal but obviously it isn't if it's completely eliminated by a lower octane gas.
The bike hasn't been dyon'ed yet and is waiting for heads. It has all SE upgrades for stage 1 and 2 and is running the map from the SE Race tuner for 8mm injectors, which should match everything on the bike perfectly.
The other issue I'm have is that at idle sometimes after it's started after still being hot and sitting, it'll idle much lower and make sucking noises while wanting to stall out. I'll have to get it moving again for it to idle right.
Any ideas what's wrong with the thing and why it's running like that if it has the appropriate canned map?
Like a dumbass, I put 87 in it yesterday while I was thinking about something else and not paying attention. On the 112 mile ride home from VA to WV, I would get a sound that was louder on the left side of the bike than the right that sounded like someone hitting a thin piece of metal with a screw driver head while accelerating hard from low in the rev range.
What I did notice though, was that while at idle the kock noise went away. There was a knocking noise at idle that that almost sounded like someone drumming on a wood block. The indie said that was normal but obviously it isn't if it's completely eliminated by a lower octane gas.
The bike hasn't been dyon'ed yet and is waiting for heads. It has all SE upgrades for stage 1 and 2 and is running the map from the SE Race tuner for 8mm injectors, which should match everything on the bike perfectly.
The other issue I'm have is that at idle sometimes after it's started after still being hot and sitting, it'll idle much lower and make sucking noises while wanting to stall out. I'll have to get it moving again for it to idle right.
Any ideas what's wrong with the thing and why it's running like that if it has the appropriate canned map?
I'll try and re-create it and plug the SERT in. It's a pain; I have a serial adapter that won't let the SERT communicate with my laptop so I have to connect a 10 year old dell desktop and drag that with monitor, keyboard, and mouse out to the garage to get it to work right since there's nothing else in the house with a serial port. I hear the belkin USB to serial adapter works with it, so I'll have to attempt to try that.
I had the same problem. My lap top would not communicate with my sert but my desk top was it's best friend. Took many cables till I broke down and found
the right one. Good luck on that crap.
the right one. Good luck on that crap.
I'm sorry, I'll be more patient and reiterate things as many times as needed for people who don't read.
I'll try and re-create it and plug the SERT in. It's a pain; I have a serial adapter that won't let the SERT communicate with my laptop so I have to connect a 10 year old dell desktop and drag that with monitor, keyboard, and mouse out to the garage to get it to work right since there's nothing else in the house with a serial port. I hear the belkin USB to serial adapter works with it, so I'll have to attempt to try that.
I'll try and re-create it and plug the SERT in. It's a pain; I have a serial adapter that won't let the SERT communicate with my laptop so I have to connect a 10 year old dell desktop and drag that with monitor, keyboard, and mouse out to the garage to get it to work right since there's nothing else in the house with a serial port. I hear the belkin USB to serial adapter works with it, so I'll have to attempt to try that.
I'll see if it's having problems this evening and hook the SERT up to it. It was idling crappy the entire ride to work this morning. It would idle, almost die, suck in air and rev up to a normal idle and repeat.
Do you normally go to this station. Could have been bad gas on top of low octane?
The SERT came with the bike and spending $400-$500 for a tune, putting head on 3 months later, then spending another $400-$500 to get it re-tuned seems like an even bigger waste of time and money...
Do you have anything constructive to offer?
I've been reading and the knocking noise I get at idle could be piston slap. If my cyclinders don't sell I might get them bored to 97 to fit new pistons and put those on with the heads. Doesn't seem like a lot of money.
Do you have anything constructive to offer?
I've been reading and the knocking noise I get at idle could be piston slap. If my cyclinders don't sell I might get them bored to 97 to fit new pistons and put those on with the heads. Doesn't seem like a lot of money.
I doubt the the detonation you experienced during the apparent short time you had 87 in it was the cause of this,but if this has been an extended period of detonation then long term damage is inevitable.
Ive seen a motor destroy itself over 2 -700 foot runs.
This is a worst case scenario obviously but The person assumed he had higher than 100 octane fuel and with 11:1 comp and only 8 lbs of boost the motor became a total loss .
I have however ran at 9.2:1 at up to 22 lbs with 115 and a significantly modifed ignition map with no problems,,and even 12 lbs with 93 octane at 9.2 ratio,,and no problems.
What is you current compression ratio after your mods?
You have something going on besides gas. I would hook up my SERT and look at the diagnostics before I do anything else. You need to look at fuel pressure and a few other things. There is a sensor out or misreading, a map error, fuel regulator problem, fuel filter and pump problem, or a plenum gasket leak. I don't think it is coil, plugs, or wires but I would rule that out instead of assuming.
You have something going on besides gas. I would hook up my SERT and look at the diagnostics before I do anything else. You need to look at fuel pressure and a few other things. There is a sensor out or misreading, a map error, fuel regulator problem, fuel filter and pump problem, or a plenum gasket leak. I don't think it is coil, plugs, or wires but I would rule that out instead of assuming.
+1

Ive cracked two airboxes pushing too much boost into them,very hard to see once the aluminumn has cracked along a weld making the fuel map off (charge from box ,now less and leaking) because the map sensor receives its data from the charge tube and not the air box
Last edited by vincentostapowich; Jun 21, 2012 at 09:38 AM.
[QUOTE=Village Idiot™;9959508]The SERT came with the bike and spending $400-$500 for a tune, putting head on 3 months later, then spending another $400-$500 to get it re-tuned seems like an even bigger waste of time and money...
Do you have anything
constructive to offer?
So your saying you don't want to spend the money on a Tyne cause of it's cost,yet you will ride a bikes who's engine is detonating or pre-igniting instead.
How much does a crank cost? And labour to install it?
The reason I ask is pre-ignition and detonation could scissor a crank,especially if your riding it and taking advantage of the hp.
I guess I don't have anything constructive to add either.
Do you have anything
constructive to offer?
So your saying you don't want to spend the money on a Tyne cause of it's cost,yet you will ride a bikes who's engine is detonating or pre-igniting instead.
How much does a crank cost? And labour to install it?
The reason I ask is pre-ignition and detonation could scissor a crank,especially if your riding it and taking advantage of the hp.
I guess I don't have anything constructive to add either.
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