Questions about getting a part machined
#11
making it is not the issue. since i have no hd dealer here, i would need total length, distance to lead hole and size and pitch and the diameter of the lesser part where it slides into the bag part i am assuming and how long you need that to be.
i will see if i can pm you, have not done it here before.
i will see if i can pm you, have not done it here before.
#12
Exactly! Using my non-existent skills with an image manipulation program (Gimp), I created the below image. Keep in mind everything should be straight. On the top part of the stud (3/8-24 female), the outside should be round for aesthetic purposes. There doesn't need to be any flats on it. The diagram/picture from ROCKOUT captures exactly what I'm looking for.
This part would allow people to easily install an after market Firestik CB antenna, as long as the part is made with a stronger material to ensure the top part doesn't snap off.
I've attached a picture of where the current stud breaks.
This part would allow people to easily install an after market Firestik CB antenna, as long as the part is made with a stronger material to ensure the top part doesn't snap off.
I've attached a picture of where the current stud breaks.
#13
#14
WOW.....bustert PM'd me and offered to make the part. The people on HDForums are awesome.
I'm going to send bustert a stock HD antenna stud (HD #76260-89) along with a Firestik stainless steel spring (part number SS-3M). He'll be able to use the stainless steel spring to see how deep the socket needs to be on the antenna stud he is machining.
There's actually lots of good CB type information on the firestik website. Reading through the website, they discuss how their antenna studs are made. Instead of inexpensive aluminum, they use chrome plated machine brass. Instead of 9/16" (14mm) hex-stock, they use 5/8" (16mm) stock.
I emailed Firestik a couple of questions and one of the things they mentioned was that if strength was my primary concern, use stainless steel. They also mentioned to take a look at the below link.
http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/thread-saver.htm
I'll keep everyone updated on the progress of this project.
I'm going to send bustert a stock HD antenna stud (HD #76260-89) along with a Firestik stainless steel spring (part number SS-3M). He'll be able to use the stainless steel spring to see how deep the socket needs to be on the antenna stud he is machining.
There's actually lots of good CB type information on the firestik website. Reading through the website, they discuss how their antenna studs are made. Instead of inexpensive aluminum, they use chrome plated machine brass. Instead of 9/16" (14mm) hex-stock, they use 5/8" (16mm) stock.
I emailed Firestik a couple of questions and one of the things they mentioned was that if strength was my primary concern, use stainless steel. They also mentioned to take a look at the below link.
http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/thread-saver.htm
I'll keep everyone updated on the progress of this project.
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (11-20-2017)
#15
I picked up the new Firestik antenna and the stainless steel spring. I also purchased a new antenna stud that will be used as a guide for machining a new part. I am a bit concerned about the tour-pak lamp housing and it's strength. The lamp housing is plastic and the new Firestik antenna with spring is about 7" taller, considerably thicker and heavier. If a stronger antenna stud is machined, I'm guessing the weak link is now this plastic tour-pak lamp mount that the antenna stud fits into. Any opinions on the strength of this? I've attached a few pictures so that you can get an idea of what I am talking about.
#16
well if the plastic assy can be removed, i would go to wally world and buy an automotive fiber glass repair kit. with the antenna removed, rough up the plastic and then mix up the gel and layer in the glass matting, when dry, it will enforce the plastic. (on the inside).
the other option would be to use filler epoxy for plastic, not jb weld. the plastic epoxy has a carrier that will melt into and bind to the plastic, it is called: loctite epoxy plastic bonder.
it works well. as the last option, use a metal strap that is glued to the assy, make sure it wraps the or almost the entire wrap around from port to starboard.
the other option would be to use filler epoxy for plastic, not jb weld. the plastic epoxy has a carrier that will melt into and bind to the plastic, it is called: loctite epoxy plastic bonder.
it works well. as the last option, use a metal strap that is glued to the assy, make sure it wraps the or almost the entire wrap around from port to starboard.
#17
Look what I received in the mail today! Bustert did an awesome job. I'll test fit it this weekend. When I sent Bustert the parts he noticed that the spring was using a threaded rod and suggested machining the antenna stud with a male end. Well, he was nice enough to make both a male and a female antenna stud, but the male version is the way to go.
After I test fit, I'll post a few more pictures.
Incredible job and a great skill to have. Thanks again!
Note: You'll probably notice that the new parts are slightly (1/4") longer. I told Bustert to make the stud slightly longer since the stock antenna fits into a slight depression in the mount on the tour-pak lamp assembly. The new antenna, well in my case the spring has a larger diameter and would not fit into that depression (see 3rd picture). I'll install some type of rubber or plastic washer between the spring and the tour-pak mount to insure a solid fit.
brett
After I test fit, I'll post a few more pictures.
Incredible job and a great skill to have. Thanks again!
Note: You'll probably notice that the new parts are slightly (1/4") longer. I told Bustert to make the stud slightly longer since the stock antenna fits into a slight depression in the mount on the tour-pak lamp assembly. The new antenna, well in my case the spring has a larger diameter and would not fit into that depression (see 3rd picture). I'll install some type of rubber or plastic washer between the spring and the tour-pak mount to insure a solid fit.
brett
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (12-26-2017)
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