Manuals
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Stage III
Joined: Dec 2004
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Manuals
I have been looking for a manual for my Softail Springer 1998..Does anyone know of a good one and where to get it...I am at a loss at this point...Need information on how to replace my clutch cable
Ghost
Ghost
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS!!!!
RE: Manuals
eBay may have some...or your local dealer should be able to find you a copy. Did you try a 'google' search?
Try this link:
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/mot...e-manuals.html
Hope you find it.
Try this link:
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/mot...e-manuals.html
Hope you find it.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2004
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RE: Manuals
Banned
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 278
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From:
RE: Manuals
Your clutch cable and its installation is common among many HDs in the same basic bikes. The primary, clutch and actuation system has not chanced very much at all for quite a while - some are still the same in the new machines. '98 is not that far back...
BClem
BClem
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
Likes: 1,477
From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: Manuals
Get thee to a dealer and get a factory manual. You can also find them through some of the online parts houses, such as J&P. The original factory manuals are overall the best value. But there are several alternatives, Chilton's and Haynes. These latter often have just enough differences in them to make something a little easier to understand. I usually buy them, and they are much cheaper than the HD manual.
Replacing the clutch cable is relatively simple. Loosen the cable adjuster, located midway on your cable. When you have plenty of slack at the lever, remove the keeper on the bottom of the lever pivot pin, drive the pin upward and out, pull the lever away from the handlebar, and finish removing the cable from the lever.
Depending upon whether you have the necessary clearance, remove your rear exhaust pipe from the engine if needed. On your transmission, remove the drain plug on the lower part of the right side cover and drain the small amount of oil that'll come out. Remove the screws holding the transmission side cover. Gently "rap" the cover with a leather or rubber mallet to loosen it from the transmission. Lay it down on its side, loosen the nut on the cable where it goes into the cover, and screw the clutch cable outer jacket out of the cover.
Notice how the inner cable fastens to the ball-and-ramp assembly, and remove it. Use this opportunity to disassemble, clean, and inspect the ball-and-ramp assembly. If you want an easier clutch, buy one of the kits that has the longer arm on the ball-and-ramp. Pay special attention to the position of the snap ring retainer. Reassemble the ball-and-ramp assembly, placing the snap ring in the correct position.
Run the new clutch cable into the cover, fasten the end to the b-and-r assembly arm. Thread the outer jacket into the cover and tighten the lock nut. Reinstall the cover with a new gasket, and fill the tranny with some good synthetic gear lube. Lube the cable from the handlebar end with your favoite lube. Reassemble it to the lever, reinstall the lever, and adjust the cable at the adjuster so you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the lever. If you had to remove the exhaust, reinstall it with a new gasket.
Ride the bike and note whether the cluch cable is binding, or the clutch is grabbing or slipping. An adjustment at the clutch may be nesessary, though I've seldom had to do so on the ones I've worked on. At any rate, it's an easier job than the cable replacement.
Replacing the clutch cable is relatively simple. Loosen the cable adjuster, located midway on your cable. When you have plenty of slack at the lever, remove the keeper on the bottom of the lever pivot pin, drive the pin upward and out, pull the lever away from the handlebar, and finish removing the cable from the lever.
Depending upon whether you have the necessary clearance, remove your rear exhaust pipe from the engine if needed. On your transmission, remove the drain plug on the lower part of the right side cover and drain the small amount of oil that'll come out. Remove the screws holding the transmission side cover. Gently "rap" the cover with a leather or rubber mallet to loosen it from the transmission. Lay it down on its side, loosen the nut on the cable where it goes into the cover, and screw the clutch cable outer jacket out of the cover.
Notice how the inner cable fastens to the ball-and-ramp assembly, and remove it. Use this opportunity to disassemble, clean, and inspect the ball-and-ramp assembly. If you want an easier clutch, buy one of the kits that has the longer arm on the ball-and-ramp. Pay special attention to the position of the snap ring retainer. Reassemble the ball-and-ramp assembly, placing the snap ring in the correct position.
Run the new clutch cable into the cover, fasten the end to the b-and-r assembly arm. Thread the outer jacket into the cover and tighten the lock nut. Reinstall the cover with a new gasket, and fill the tranny with some good synthetic gear lube. Lube the cable from the handlebar end with your favoite lube. Reassemble it to the lever, reinstall the lever, and adjust the cable at the adjuster so you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the lever. If you had to remove the exhaust, reinstall it with a new gasket.
Ride the bike and note whether the cluch cable is binding, or the clutch is grabbing or slipping. An adjustment at the clutch may be nesessary, though I've seldom had to do so on the ones I've worked on. At any rate, it's an easier job than the cable replacement.
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