fskitch, I think the process for the dash panel should work, I would get it cleared for avoid rust issues.

You wouldn't happen to know the answer to the question I posted would you?

blueangel73__Not exactly, when I was researching the lightbar, It was my understanding that any softail lightbar would work with the fat bob trees. Just do not use the Road King lightbar as it is to wide. If you go back to page 59 or so in this group the explanation and pictures are somewhere in the there. When I started my front end conversion I would always go to pg. 60 and work forward or backward. Lots of Fat bob tree specifics in and around that area.

I would get the newer ones to be safe but I think all would work just so long as it is Softail. Softail windshield hardware is also dependent on if there are spot lights or not so bone up on that too. Do you have the Kury 49mm clamps yet? I have my old ones sitting around unused. Sold my 49mm forks yesterday so definitely not going back!

fskitch - What exactly do you want out of your dash if money were no object? Chrome? etc or do you want that polished steel look. If that is the case, I would chemically strip the powder off. I use Kleanstrip. It is tough and may take several attempts but you will have no rough sanding marks. Then sand with 1000 up to 2000 sandpaper (wet). Don't bother polishing by hand, you will need a machine buffing wheel, bench top. They are quite reasonable, under $80 usually and you will immediately find other things to polish!

This one you think?

That one is good if you don't have a bench grinder otherwise get one with a cutting (rough polish) wheel and a fine polishing wheel. You will have a lot of fun polishing things to a chrome like finish.

Was the final product to be cleared? There are a few different options.

AFMM3, no I do not have my clamps yet, let me know what you want for them. I would like to eventually go to the 7" light and the passing lights. I want to run a batwing intended for use on a Heritage and the bracket will allow it to be detachable. The reason I ask about fitment years, is because I can get a both from Drag, newer one is $99 and older one is $49, if they both fit and there isn't any difference between the detach hardware for the screen, I think the $50 could be use other places. IMO

fskitch, thanks, I'll go back and do some reading.

I don't have a bench grinder and have been looking for an excuse to buy one. I could buy a couple wheels for the polish side right?
Chrome would be okay but I'm hearing mixed reviews on going snow blind when the sun bounces off an up to your face--also prices vary from $150 to $250 when folks in the dyna forum speak about it. Money isn't the main factor here. I just want the wrinkle gone and the dash to flow with the rest of the bike. A brushed look may even work. But polished metal is what I had in mind, so maybe rattle can clear? What do you think?
Polishing wheel will be good when I strip the primary to bare aluminum and shine it up.

AFMM3- Shinny black may even be an option since I run black bars, black crash bar, black fork lowers, black spotlight brackets etc. I'm just getting away from wrinkle on the most visible parts. Do you still have your original that you had powdered?? Im sure I recall you did powder your street bob dash from earlier (few years back) in these posts. If so want to part with it?