Just wanted to post and share my recent experience in hopes it might help someone. When I finished my build I was experiencing a ticking noise coming from the intake/valve train area at idle through about 3500. Even with rock outs in there

To me it sounded like a pushrod hitting. I tore down the top end to check clearances and found one pushrod with a witness mark. These were the standard screamin eagle adjustables. So to rectify this I switched to smith bros tapered. The noise was still there but no witness marks this time. Everything in the rocker box area was not contacting and in spec.

I read on multiple occasions that the 57h and 37h (what I have) have been known to make intake noise. Ok. Makes sense. This must be the problem. It wasn't bad for the motor and the bike ran ok but I did have a soft spot in lower rpms.

I like to tinker and that's also why I got a pv. After getting a dyno tune (or it was supposed to be) I was less than thrilled with the outcome and how the bike would ride. It also would not run in closed loop in the lower kpa spectrum for some reason. The main reason I wanted to get the bike dynoed (even though I have the pv and at-pro kit) was to get the timing map redone. I don't know a lot about timing and I am not super comfortable fiddle faddling with it.

Fast forward. I get a new base map from dj and fuelmoto. Waaaay better timing and I skipped the dyno this time and dialed in the ve's. The timing in the map corrected the intake noise and it no longer has the ticking or soft spot down low.

Point of the story is to say that if you are chasing the ticking noise. Sometimes you have to look at other things that you don't think would make it.

 

How different was the timing map you had versus the one from DJ and Fuelmoto? Was the AFR and VE tables also a lot different?

 

We saw that many years back when a batch of crank sensors was wired backward. Timing was about 10 degrees off.