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TTS Mastertune Information

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  #3871  
Old 05-26-2013, 11:36 AM
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Thanks everyone for the advice on changing my starting map for my tune. I have done a few vtunes and everything seems much better so far.
 
  #3872  
Old 05-27-2013, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard
When you start Datamaster and select what you want to record it asks you for a place and file name where it will write it to the computer.

When you stop the software recording and exit Datamaster it automatically saves the file to where you told it to be saved. There is no save button so you aren't going nutz.
Thank you,

-now one stupid question again because instructions are confusing me;

How to do this with main Lambda table;

" When you have completed your final VTune correction, you MUST restore the original AFR table that was supplied in the calibration. Otherwise, the engine may run too lean for extended high-load operation.
1.
Load the final VTuned calibration into MasterTune
2.
Select the AFR table
3.
Click on the upper left corner to select the entire table = is this necessary?
4.
Click the “Set to Original” button "


and then save this with new name or, ?


third question; how to adjust Matertune for 98 E5 octane gasoline ?

I have 2010 FLHT build to SE 103 stage 2 kit, SE 255 cams, AN Big Sucker


Thank you again
 
  #3873  
Old 05-27-2013, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jussunduuri
Thank you,

-now one stupid question again because instructions are confusing me;

How to do this with main Lambda table;

" When you have completed your final VTune correction, you MUST restore the original AFR table that was supplied in the calibration. Otherwise, the engine may run too lean for extended high-load operation.
1.
Load the final VTuned calibration into MasterTune
2.
Select the AFR table
3.
Click on the upper left corner to select the entire table = is this necessary?
4.
Click the “Set to Original” button "


and then save this with new name or, ?


third question; how to adjust Matertune for 98 E5 octane gasoline ?

I have 2010 FLHT build to SE 103 stage 2 kit, SE 255 cams, AN Big Sucker


Thank you again

There is no 'calibrating' for fuel types. I always suggest one runs one step down from normal during tuning. IE: run 92 with corn, if you try to run 92 without corn, etc. It is, to a point, a self correcting system as far as Stoich is concerned.

How did you set you Lambda calibration up to do the v-tuning runs? Did you place every cell at .977, or above, and the all the numbers were bold?

If so, all you have to do is take the mouse in the upper left corner of the Lambda table right now, and right click. Hold that click and expand the highlight box over the entire calibration for Lambda... then up on the tool bar is some buttons mid way across that say 'set to baseline' and another that says 'set to original'.

With all of your tuning lambdas highlighted, hit the 'set to original' button, and all of the fuel values will revert to the stock map.

Also, I had an Alzheimer's moment. Just click on the box in upper left that says 'rpm' and then hit set to original. no need to highlight, as the rpm button will do that. I forget these things,because I never do all of that, I am always pasting and copying. My bad!
 

Last edited by wurk_truk; 05-27-2013 at 05:57 PM.
  #3874  
Old 05-28-2013, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by wurk_truk
There is no 'calibrating' for fuel types. I always suggest one runs one step down from normal during tuning. IE: run 92 with corn, if you try to run 92 without corn, etc. It is, to a point, a self correcting system as far as Stoich is concerned.

How did you set you Lambda calibration up to do the v-tuning runs? Did you place every cell at .977, or above, and the all the numbers were bold?

If so, all you have to do is take the mouse in the upper left corner of the Lambda table right now, and right click. Hold that click and expand the highlight box over the entire calibration for Lambda... then up on the tool bar is some buttons mid way across that say 'set to baseline' and another that says 'set to original'.

With all of your tuning lambdas highlighted, hit the 'set to original' button, and all of the fuel values will revert to the stock map.

Also, I had an Alzheimer's moment. Just click on the box in upper left that says 'rpm' and then hit set to original. no need to highlight, as the rpm button will do that. I forget these things,because I never do all of that, I am always pasting and copying. My bad!

Hello

I started with base map DUH009-03 and I tought that's all I need to do , not to set any lambda values, obivioisly I did something wrong and help needed how to start correctly ?
 

Last edited by jussunduuri; 05-29-2013 at 12:29 AM.
  #3875  
Old 06-01-2013, 08:44 AM
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Default Currently running a PCV but want to switch to TTS and keep open loop on an '08 bike

Hey All - I have a long way to go in learning the EFI system and after a lot of searching thought I would throw this question out there to the experts? I'm currently running a PCV on an '08 FXSTB (came w/ a canned map from FM for AC, Short 2+2 pipes). I'd really like to switch to TTS but still keep an open loop setup. However, since I already took out and discarded my o2 sensors when I installed the PCV, I guess I can't use the Vtune feature. All of the canned map downloads from TTS for an '08 are for closed loop. Is this going to be a huge PITA to accomplish unless I re-install my o2 sensors?
 
  #3876  
Old 06-01-2013, 08:33 PM
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Reinstall the 02 sensors and go TTS
 
  #3877  
Old 06-02-2013, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard
Reinstall the 02 sensors and go TTS
OK will do. Thanks.
 
  #3878  
Old 06-04-2013, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard
All this conversation and still no mention of working with the EGR. Why is it that EGR spooks so many they don't want to talk about it or work with the function?

Ever ride up to a street light that is red and suddenly turns green? You forgot to downshift so your motor bucks against the compensator like it's going to jump out of the frame? If you work with the EGR that won't happen and you can easily roll up the throttle and ride out of it. The bike has smother acceleration, more TQ/HP, uses less gas and quite frankly tunes better.

So, if someone brings up EGR let's embrace that function not act like someone farted in the elevator. What ya say?

i do not have tts i have pv but i am very interested in the egr tables and would like to play with them but there is very little documentation and even less users posting about this subject.

i want a smooth running bike and one that pulls when i ask it to.

it has been suggested by a member more knowledgeable than myself that i should play with spark tables for a smooth running bike before i start on egr, sounds like good advice and i have been playing with that a little but i do want to use and understand egr tables.

i have a 2-1 rush exhaust on a 2011 blackline with dkcustoms outlaw breather intake kit.

perhaps the spikes and valleys (3d ve ) are what my bike wants, perhaps i have reversion (or timing issues) in 2 different rpm ranges.... im ok with not having a smooth looking ve map, but i do feel vibration in the 2 biggest spikes/rpm ranges.

i would be willing to post my experiments but i do need some direction.... if you can/will provide that direction i would be very grateful.
 
  #3879  
Old 06-05-2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by goats
i do not have tts i have pv but i am very interested in the egr tables and would like to play with them but there is very little documentation and even less users posting about this subject.

i want a smooth running bike and one that pulls when i ask it to.

it has been suggested by a member more knowledgeable than myself that i should play with spark tables for a smooth running bike before i start on egr, sounds like good advice and i have been playing with that a little but i do want to use and understand egr tables.

i have a 2-1 rush exhaust on a 2011 blackline with dkcustoms outlaw breather intake kit.

perhaps the spikes and valleys (3d ve ) are what my bike wants, perhaps i have reversion (or timing issues) in 2 different rpm ranges.... im ok with not having a smooth looking ve map, but i do feel vibration in the 2 biggest spikes/rpm ranges.

i would be willing to post my experiments but i do need some direction.... if you can/will provide that direction i would be very grateful.
I cannot give you direction using the PV. Due to my personal opinion, which I will not share here, I will not even take it out of the box it comes in.

However, EGR is the same for each bike.

You say you have VE spikes. These spikes, if using a stock cam, are anomalies and should be adjusted out manually especially if they will be in open loop. If you have valley's then you actually have VE ridges not a valley.

A VE ridge will be less pronounced using a stock cam. Using a larger cam will produce ridge separation. The larger the cam hotter the motor the more pronounced the VE ridges will be. These ridges normally stop just before 2200 RPM and begin again around 2800 RPM.

You can use EGR to help lower the ridge and raise the valley. This will take butt loads of patience on your part.

As for smoothing out your tune with timing. Yes, good timing will help but fuel before timing then back to fuel. This means EGR should come before timing changes as it is a part of your fuel tuning.


-Wiz
 
  #3880  
Old 06-05-2013, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Wizard
I cannot give you direction using the PV. Due to my personal opinion, which I will not share here, I will not even take it out of the box it comes in.

However, EGR is the same for each bike.

You say you have VE spikes. These spikes, if using a stock cam, are anomalies and should be adjusted out manually especially if they will be in open loop. If you have valley's then you actually have VE ridges not a valley.

A VE ridge will be less pronounced using a stock cam. Using a larger cam will produce ridge separation. The larger the cam hotter the motor the more pronounced the VE ridges will be. These ridges normally stop just before 2200 RPM and begin again around 2800 RPM.

You can use EGR to help lower the ridge and raise the valley. This will take butt loads of patience on your part.

As for smoothing out your tune with timing. Yes, good timing will help but fuel before timing then back to fuel. This means EGR should come before timing changes as it is a part of your fuel tuning.


-Wiz

lol, i get the impression you are not a fan of pv :-) if you wanted to share your opinion please feel free to send me a message.... i like to learn and am not hung up on a given brand.

your explanation about egr does help me understand it a little more so thanks for the explanation. it does make sense to deal with air (including egr) before timing.

would be nice to know if i should start by increasing numbers or decreasing to start with but it sounds like i am on my own with that part.
 


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