Thanks for the reply. There's definitely a difference for me while autotuning as far as popping goes.

I may try a different DJ map and experiment. I noticed there's one for a SE and V&H Propipe 2-1. Right now I'm using the SE and Akrapovic 2-1 based on what DJ recommended. I'm running a SE with V&H Big Radius 2-1...I figure if it's the same maker, it might be a closer match.

 

Should I be selecting "yes" to reset learned trim values when flashing an updated autotune? I've been selecting yes each time and wonder if that's what's keeping me for getting my tune "dialed in."

I made 4 more 20-25 minute runs today, and each time I had changes > 5%.

Here are my Front and Rear VE Delta tables. Am I getting close?

 

Hey squid...I don't think those are your VE tables. Ure showing throttle position.

 

Those are the deltas of my VE. On my PV, the VE tables are laid out by throttle position.

EDIT: Inserting the full screen shot, pretty sure these are VE tables, but I am a noob so...


Anyway, can anyone tell if I'm getting close on this?

 

Been thinking about going with a Thundermax. Would like to know if this is a better choice over SE race turner

 

The manual suggests resetting trims when beginning an Autotune session. Shouldn't affect your session provided you export it and save it into a slot before resetting the trims. From what I've been told it doesn't affect anything with the map itself but simply resets the adaptations your ECM picks up.

 

Are you seeing the >5% changes in the same cells or just hitting different parts of the map? Looks like you're getting close,but I'd try to broaden the range of cells you're hitting a bit more and possible do a run or two with a little longer collection time. A view of the VE graph itself would be good just to see how consistent you're VE's are across the entire range. Looking for sharp peaks or valleys

 

Couple of questions come to mind:

Are you using the same route when autotuning?

Are you using slow, deliberate throttle control?

Are you concentrating on hitting as many data cells when using the grid that is displayed on the PV?

And adding to:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoSpgsMark

Are you seeing the >5% changes in the same cells or just hitting different parts of the map?

Are you saving the datarun, then uploading that to the ECM to use as the new map to build the next autotune run from?

It's been awhile since I've done this and the weather is too crappy here to turn it on to refresh my memory.

You always want to reset the trims when beginning a new run.

Hopefully others more knowledgeable might jump in.

 

Forget about the AFR table for now. It seems like you're just confusing yourself. Set it up at 14.6 and go do some tuning runs. You aren't concerned about the AFR table settings, what you need to be looking at is getting your VE's and timing dialed in. Once you get the VE's within a percent or two then start working on your timing tables. Once you get timing squared away ( bring it up until it starts to ping and then back off 2 degrees, some like 3) go back and make 2 more VE runs. You should be dialed in pretty good at that point. Now you can play around with the AFR table. Messing with the AFR table before you have your VE's and Timing right is just wasting time. If your VE's aren't right your AFR won't be right so don't bother with them until your dialed in. And yes, if your CLB's are higher than 450 your AFR's will be richer also.

 

Some areas are good to go, some need work. You have some low RPM areas that definitely need work. Depending on your exhaust it may never come as close to where you want to be. How the sensors are reading makes all the difference, but you don't have much control over that unless you want to get picky and follow the Bosch guidance to a tee. Anyway, I still think you will get the lower RPM's to dial in. Just get on a deserted street and stay in those areas. Start at just off idle, stay there for 20 seconds...raise the rpm's 200 or so...stay there for 20 seconds...again and again. Then do the same in 2nd gear....rinse and repeat. 3rd gear...rinse and repeat. Don't be afraid to wring it out. It will sound like it's revving way beyond your comfort level but don't back down. Just don't be dumb and get yourself hurt, use a little common sense doing this. The key is to repeat the same strategy on every tuning run. I run the same route with flats and hills. I run through each gear...staying in each RPM area 20 seconds. then I run the same route 2 or 3 times on each tuning run. On the hills I drag the brake a little and SLOWLY bring the RPM's up in stages staying there as long as possible (without burning up the brakes of course). If your bike is good running order, meaning no exhaust or intake leaks you should get these VE's to within 2 or 3%. Some of your areas are way outside 5% which tells you to gas up and make some more runs.