I lowered the afr in the 20% column and lowered the DE tables by 10%. Still get just a little pop, mostly at 2500 rpm. I figured I would work on that later since it is so minor.

 

So today I ran two maps, +/- 65 miles each with only changes to the timing tables between them. Made two logs with each map. One mostly interstate and one mostly back roads. No real crazy riding, but real world riding with a pull out to pass or two in there on back roads.

I have been scrolling those logs with excel for the last two hours and I am beginning to think I have woke up in the movie The Matrix!! I am seeing the ride and what I am doing during the ride more and more. Like when I pull in the clutch to shift it reads 0 for the gear position for a couple of rows before the gear number changes. 0 when I am stopped at a light or sign too. Large jump in the KPA column shows I was pulling pretty hard and when looked at the TP it proves it even when the RPM is still in the midrange. Then I look over at my set AFR column and see my AFR is changed to 12.5! It is set at 12.8 on the AFR table in the 90 KPA column and CLB doesn't affect AFR in that area.

So is the Acceleration Enrichment causing the .3 drop from the AFR table? I was really looking to work on my timing with these and just noticed the AFR. My mpg for the day was 36.2 total so it is still a little low, but not bad. Before the 103 upgrade I got 38.

 

Hey everybody, got a few questions.

I have a 2005 Softail Deuce, 88 CI
V&H Big Radius 2 into 2
Kuryakyn Mach II air cleaner
Power Vision

I'm getting ready to install Andrews 21 cams. Does anybody have a map for a similar setup?

Fuel Moto didn't have a matching map. They sent me one for similar specs with a Woods TW-6 cam which is the closest they have to my set up.

My bike is fuel injected but doesn't have O2 sensors so I can't autotune. Looks like I will either buy the autotune module with wideband sensors or take it for a dyno tune. Either one will have to wait for a little while until I can save up some money.

One last question, does anybody know of a good dyno tuner in the Knoxville, TN area?

Thanks!

 

The bike is a 12' FLTRX with the V&h power duals, Monster Rounds and the HD stage one breather and download. My Power Vision came with a FM map for this setup. My bike runs pretty good with the HD download with a few flaws and I was wondering what the experienced guys see when the HD map is compared to the FM map. The way this winter is going its going to be a long time before I get to try it.

 

I compared mine and most of us can tell you the download is going to be much leaner than any FM map. Remember the download is nothing more than a standard canned map by HD. It is not unique to your bike, unless you had them dyno it at that time and I have my doubts about the amount of effort HD dealers put into dynoing. They charge a set amount for the most part so why spend time trying to customize a tune that most people will not fill the difference in. IMHO.

 

If you want to use the learning ability of the ECM then don't smooth. Just make sure your VE's are within a couple % change and leave the smoothing alone. What smoothing changed the ECM is going to change right back anyway so leave it.

 

You will never know if it's an improvement or not doing a street tune. The only thing you will know is if it's pinging or not pinging. Find out where it pings and then back off 3 degrees, that's the best you're going to get. If you don't see any pings on the logs then you have 2 choices. One, is the bike running nice? Are you happy with it? If so, leave it alone. If it pings, make the changes. Two, you can play around with it and jack the timing and look for pings, and make changes. In the long run if the bike runs nice and doesn't ping then leave it. You won't feel a couple degrees anyway, most won't. Some canned maps have conservative timing and the bikes run fine that way. Some of us like to tinker and play around with the timing. Are we really accomplishing anything that we can attribute to the best hp/tq? The answer is, without dyno....no. The tables you're posting won't tell you or anyone reading much. The logs, as someone posted, will pretty much tell you what's happening with the engine. Think of it this way, it's easier to understand. The tables are telling the engine what TO do. Versus the logs telling you what the engine IS doing. You need to know what the engine is telling you first (LOGS) and then you set up your table accordingly.

 

First make sure you don't have any leaks at the heads or muffler joints. I use copper high temp silicone in the joints and it seems to work pretty good. Depending on the exhaust you may or may not get rid of it all. Is the popping right after you let off the throttle? Or does it continue to pop as the RPM's go down. If it's just one or two pops you can try to increase DE or you can decrease DE. Try both and see which makes the most improvement. If it's a long popping, example from 3000 down to 1500, then you probably need to mess with the cells in those RPM ranges in the 20% column. If that doesn't cure it, try raising the timing in the 20% column in the RPM's it pops. That cured all of mine. I think the DE table fades in a certain amount of seconds so it won't do much for anything more than a couple pops letting off between gears. For a long continued popping I think the tables work best. Just have to play around and see what works. But don't get disappointed if it doesn't completely go away. Some exhaust just pop.

 

The CLB is changing the AFR you just don't see it. If the CLB is set at anything other than 450 the AFR is different than what's in your table. If the CLB is higher than 450 then your AFR will be richer. Let's say your CLB is set at 700 then your AFR will actually be a little richer than 14.6. All indications will still say 14.6 but the CLB setting tricks the ECM into thinking it's leaner so it richens it up. You will still see 14.6 as an AFR but the CLB setting (which is just a voltage manipulator to the sensors) makes it maybe 14.55 or whatever. You won't see the change in the AFR shown though.

 

See any knock retard?