Here's my latest Deltas for my AT-Basics 006 compared to 005. I still have a few cells that I need to get below 3%. But most of the map is in there.

Jim, I'll try to work on the upper left and also lower right. What else? Other input?

 

Hey all. I've been reading through this stuff from page 300 or so, on. And I can't quite 100% grasp everything. There is so much to read and a lot of things going on, so I guess I'll just ask instead of trying to find out everything from reading all 400 pages.

I have a 2003 softail with 95" kit, SE high flow ac, and VH big shot pipes. It has a harley flash right now and runs pretty decent. No noticible problems I guess. However it does run kind of lean when at WOT and somewhat rich when cruising. I have a PV that my father in law bought (gonna add a second license to it). I'd like to just sort of fine tune my bike and see what it's doing and what not. I'm relatively new to learning about EFI and all the electronics and what not. So where do I start? What's the best way to go about fine tuning everything? What am I looking for as far as AFR goes? I loaded all the stuff on to my laptop last night and updated everything, so I'm good there. So now what is the best way to go about fine tuning without screwing up how my bike runs now?

 

So welcome, and be prepared to do some homework. Don't get discouraged if you don't get it right away. Good that you have the software with updates on your computer.

Make sure you have all of the license stuff done. I'm not sure where your Dad bought the original unit or where you bought the license.. but if it's FuelMoto they will give you a good base map.. to start with. Don't worry about AFR stuff for now.

1st Step is to get the base map, load it onto your bike and "marry" the PV/license to your bike. (my opinion on this is you are going to want to buy your own unit sooner or later, but I understand it's a way to save a few bucks while your learning.)

So, you can get a good base map from Dynojet, if FuelMoto isn't where you've purchased. Go to the DynoJet PowerVision site and find the map that is closest to your bike/year/configuration and load it.

That alone will make your bike run better than it probably is now.

But then Step 2 is to start doing AutoTune-Basic runs. - For now all I'm going to say is go to the users guide and videos on the Dynajet site and that will show you how to do it.

Let us know how you do with that.

 

I haven't played with my tune any for the last month or so although I have run some logs. I was still having some minor knock events so I did a new tune using log tuner, but I have not installed it yet as I have some work to do on the inner primary first.

I have been following the thread though and now I am wondering about running an open loop AFR. I am still running mostly closed loop right now and when I checked my MPG riding two up on back roads 45-55 mph I get 37mpg. Hit the hwy two up and run 70 mph and it drops to 32-33 mpg. The logs still had some knock events too.

So my question is for those that run open loop. Can dropping my AFR from closed loop 14.6 to say 14.2 help with the knock events and what affect would that have on my mpg? Is this something I should try and where exactly would I change the afr settings on the table for best results? Could someone, Stalljim, post a picture of their open loop afr table?

I am leaving on a trip for Utah on the 7th of June and it is supposed to rain for the rest of the week so I don't have much time to play around with the afr table before the trip and may have to wait till I get back. Oh and before anyone says anything about getting my VE's dialed in first.......the VE's are set with 5% or less now and using AT or Log Tuner gives the same results on the VE changes of 5% or less for the last 5 tunes. I could probably do the lower idle setting to get the upper left area better and will in the future.

 

I'm running 14.2 in the cruise range on my 08 softail, didn't notice any mpg drop from my closed loop tune. Not sure on the knock events though, depends on how much you are getting really. Without seeing the logs I can't say. In theory it can help minor knocking events but I believe that is more of a situation where you are running overly lean. I would pull a little timing regardless just to be on the safe side. The way I look at it is if you run say 14.2 and get no more knocking it could be you are now just on the verge of knocking so you might want to give yourself a buffer of sorts. Load a open loop tune on your PV and try it out, the worst that can happen is you or your bike don't like it and you have to take 2 minutes to flashbback to your closed loop tune.

 

Old Hip.... can u explain how to see the charts you posted. I looked in WinPV and scrolled to every selection and didn't see charts like u posted.

 

Watchfuliz.... if you can identify where the knock is happenin ( from a log or you know the RPM and KPA area it is happening ) just like unckle chester said. make a change. if i were doing this i would identify the area i get knock and back the timing off 2 deg. a few cells before the event....the cells that the knock retard event happened at .....and a few cells after the event. Thats how I would do it. Dont know if you have a comfort level with altering timing.Worst that can happen is you reflash the tune you started with.

Throwing fuel at it will help some but i dont think it will yeild the results your after. id start with the timing. Then if you want to run open loop ( i have made that edit also ) change the A/F table of your tune. i would think if your timing is in a happier place your bike will respond better and be happier to the fuel changes if you decide to make any.

 

These are delta charts for VE shown as a %. Not sure which step you might be missing so check these:
- make sure you have user level set to "pro". To do this, go to SETUP > OPTIONS > USER LEVEL > PRO. This step allows you to view VE tables.
- open a tune or get a tune from the PV.
- LOAD COMPARE file
- select DELTA
- to view delta as a %. Go to COMPARE > SHoW DELTA AS A %.

Good luck

 

You could, but I would play around with timing first. Vibrations in the bars or floorboards can be attributed to a little too much timing. Set up PV to show you RPM and Map on the screen. Then go ride. When you feel the weirdness happening see what RPM and MAP is on the screen (where it starts and where it ends) then take out 2 degrees and see what happens. Do it in 2* increments and see if that helps any. Trust me, trying a few timing changes in the affected areas is a much easier diagnosis than playing with CDE values.

 

You NEED to learn WinPV.

If you're getting one or two pops betweens shifts add some fuel in the decel table.

If you're getting long drawn out popping during decel then lower the AFR in the decel column. The decel table will only help to a certain degree with long popping because the fuel decays at a certain point.

At runs will definitely help with SOME decel popping. The trick is to get hits in the left column, far enough down in the RPM ranges. Easier said than done. I know with a TPS cal getting anything below above 3k is a chore without really wringing it out and backing off.