Staticly check timing
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Cruiser
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Staticly check timing
PG and some of you others would like to hear your take on this. I found this on another Sportysite.would this work?[/align][/align]"staticly" checked timing with a test light.
Bring the timing mark around to the hole on TDC.
Turn the ignition on.
Hook a test light between your points and ground.
With your fingers or bent needle nose pliers advance your points cam.
The light will go out when the points open. So if you are at the end of the "swing" and your light goes out, you are "very close".
You can do the same with an induction pickup from the 80's except for the light comes on instead of going out.
It will get you close enough to start your bike.[/align]
Bring the timing mark around to the hole on TDC.
Turn the ignition on.
Hook a test light between your points and ground.
With your fingers or bent needle nose pliers advance your points cam.
The light will go out when the points open. So if you are at the end of the "swing" and your light goes out, you are "very close".
You can do the same with an induction pickup from the 80's except for the light comes on instead of going out.
It will get you close enough to start your bike.[/align]
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: Staticly check timing
Jimbo....
A simpler way of saying this is: 'Just position the points backing plate in the center of the slots and this will be close enough to get it started.'
The method you described does not take into account that the centrifugal advance is not working when the engine is not running. This advance advances the spark 35 to 45 degrees, so that is enough to ignore finding the timing mark, setting it at TDC, etc.
For instance, let's say you are out on the road and for some reason the bike gets 'out of time.' (I cannot imagine how that is going to happen though)
All you have to do is set the plate in the middle of the slots and tighten it down. The machine will start and run well enough until you can reach a timing light.......pg
A simpler way of saying this is: 'Just position the points backing plate in the center of the slots and this will be close enough to get it started.'
The method you described does not take into account that the centrifugal advance is not working when the engine is not running. This advance advances the spark 35 to 45 degrees, so that is enough to ignore finding the timing mark, setting it at TDC, etc.
For instance, let's say you are out on the road and for some reason the bike gets 'out of time.' (I cannot imagine how that is going to happen though)
All you have to do is set the plate in the middle of the slots and tighten it down. The machine will start and run well enough until you can reach a timing light.......pg
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
RE: Staticly check timing
Well, the needle nose pliers were said to be what 'advanced' the spark, but why bother with that? The base result is to simply put the plate in the center of the slots. This has no relation of where the engine is positioned when you do that......pg
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
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RE: Staticly check timing
We static time our Harleys with a tool called the Acu-Timer..
It holds the advancer at full advance, and then you can just use a light to set her to exact specs...
We got tired of wearing a rain coat to set ours up, and the clear plugs are Ok, but with this little clamp thing it gets it "dead nuts" and the bikes we've used it on run really smooth the first time.
We're a vintage shop, and we restore a lot of 70's and before metrics, and American bikes, and we now own our first Ironhead...(and we're crazy about it)
We've always static timed the metrics using the brake light on the bike. It takes the guesswork out of it, and I knew it could be done with the Ironhead as well...
Wecarry the tool if anyone's interested...(14 bones its a heck of a deal it comes with instructions) I'm not trying to get a free plug for our biz here, I just wanted to let folks know that this little gadget is the way to fly, and I've handed out several locally..
Hey, Take care,
Terry
It holds the advancer at full advance, and then you can just use a light to set her to exact specs...
We got tired of wearing a rain coat to set ours up, and the clear plugs are Ok, but with this little clamp thing it gets it "dead nuts" and the bikes we've used it on run really smooth the first time.
We're a vintage shop, and we restore a lot of 70's and before metrics, and American bikes, and we now own our first Ironhead...(and we're crazy about it)
We've always static timed the metrics using the brake light on the bike. It takes the guesswork out of it, and I knew it could be done with the Ironhead as well...
Wecarry the tool if anyone's interested...(14 bones its a heck of a deal it comes with instructions) I'm not trying to get a free plug for our biz here, I just wanted to let folks know that this little gadget is the way to fly, and I've handed out several locally..
Hey, Take care,
Terry
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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From:
RE: Staticly check timing
Its just a little clamp looking thing that wraps around the ignition rotor while the points and everything is intact...
You'll set the crank, through the timing hole to the exact center for full advance...
You'll use the clamp to hold the cam at full advance..
The brake light trick is something we use here, but it can be done with just a standard continuity tester..
I prefer a light since it reacts instantly, and some meters have a slight lag..
We just use the points as a ground for one lead of the light, and connect the other to a 12 volt source..
Rotate the timing plate until the light just goes out, this will be the exact point of fire for the plugs when the engine is running at full advance.. Tighten the plate.
Remove the clamp, hook your wires back up,Tighten everything up, and she's good to go...
Its a piece of cake, and it comes with a really detailed set of instructions..
I've trusted this method for quite awhile on Harleys, and VW's... (I made my own tool years ago for the .009 dist on a VW)
We never use a timing light on a points operated ignition on any metrics... Its always staticly done.
Take care,
Terry
You'll set the crank, through the timing hole to the exact center for full advance...
You'll use the clamp to hold the cam at full advance..
The brake light trick is something we use here, but it can be done with just a standard continuity tester..
I prefer a light since it reacts instantly, and some meters have a slight lag..
We just use the points as a ground for one lead of the light, and connect the other to a 12 volt source..
Rotate the timing plate until the light just goes out, this will be the exact point of fire for the plugs when the engine is running at full advance.. Tighten the plate.
Remove the clamp, hook your wires back up,Tighten everything up, and she's good to go...
Its a piece of cake, and it comes with a really detailed set of instructions..
I've trusted this method for quite awhile on Harleys, and VW's... (I made my own tool years ago for the .009 dist on a VW)
We never use a timing light on a points operated ignition on any metrics... Its always staticly done.
Take care,
Terry
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