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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:00 PM
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How do you keep your battery cables/ terminals from rusting. I'm thinking I might go to gold cables, but that's not going to stop the screws that go into the battery from rusting and corroding. I was thinking sand them shiny, coat them with dielectric grease and then maybe some liquid electrical tape? Mine cable ends and the harness from the battery charger are so rusty the battery tender doesn't recognize it's plugged in. On another odd note shouldn't the battery tender alligator clips spark if they are touched together if the unit is working properly? I let them fall and they did and nothing, and the fuse is fine too. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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I presume when you say rust, that you are referring to oxidation or corrosion. Replace the cables with new and clean up the battery, then coat connections with battery protectant or something similar. You should check your tender with a voltmeter to see if it is actually working. Good looking bike.
 

Last edited by Blackcherry Low; Mar 10, 2011 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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You have to be a little careful with the dielectric grease. It does not conduct electricity, so it you use too much you do not get a connection. Is you bike stored in a humid environment? I have never heard of such an extreme problem with battery cables/connections. I just clean mine up maybe once every few years or so.

The battery charger puts out .75 or 1.25 amps depending on the model; so you need an ammeter rather than a voltmeter i think.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 11:30 PM
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I live in Florida, where its 80 percent humidity most of the spring, except when it rains, and then its 100%. And it's not just corrosion. BC. The harness leads are cheap and so are the screws that go into the battery terminals. It's definitely rust too. Anyone have a suggestion for battery screws, or know where I could find some gold dipped ones that won't rust or corrode?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 12:42 AM
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Purified Vaseline from pharmacy... not conducting electricity.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:31 AM
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I buy all my nuts&bolts&etc from a local automotive/industrial fasteners shop. Look under Fasteners in the YellowPages.

I use either stainless steel or grade 5 depending on the application. SS for less strength-requiring parts, grade 5 where higher torque is needed.

I would put SS on the battery terminals.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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I wasn't sure if SS conducted electricity for some reason, and I was too embarrassed to ask.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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I was told that if ba6tery termianls corrode extensively like mine do, a battery tender will show a full charge when its not, and will eventually go bad? Is this true. and if so how can I test my battery tender. As of right now i'm out a battery and a battery tender, and that angers me since the point of a battery tender is to keep the battery charged when its not being used.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilWayz
I was told that if ba6tery termianls corrode extensively like mine do, a battery tender will show a full charge when its not, and will eventually go bad? Is this true. and if so how can I test my battery tender. As of right now i'm out a battery and a battery tender, and that angers me since the point of a battery tender is to keep the battery charged when its not being used.

Originally Posted by Blackcherry Low
I presume when you say rust, that you are referring to oxidation or corrosion. Replace the cables with new and clean up the battery, then coat connections with battery protectant or something similar. You should check your tender with a voltmeter to see if it is actually working. Good looking bike.

See above.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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I assume a multimeter has both an ammeter and a voltimeter since you and mick seem to be at odds as to which I should use?
 
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