stalling
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 82
From: nj
stalling
Driving my 84 ironhead today I was having problems when I stopped. When I started the bike back up she would stall. The bike would start back up but I would have to give it gas. After I would ride for 2 minutes it is okay. The motor is still hot from when I started again . I did notice to that I getting some run on after I stopped the bike just a tiny bit sometimes. I have a s&s carb. Thanks for your help
Does it have the original Electronic Ignition, points, or modern EI?
I would ...
check connections at the ignition coil, ignition module
check spark plug wires [both ends], condition of spark plugs
install new spark plugs to see if that makes a difference
check fuel flow from fuel tank, thru filter and petcock, into a jar
check fuel filter
Make exactly only one change at a time.
I would ...
check connections at the ignition coil, ignition module
check spark plug wires [both ends], condition of spark plugs
install new spark plugs to see if that makes a difference
check fuel flow from fuel tank, thru filter and petcock, into a jar
check fuel filter
Make exactly only one change at a time.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 82
From: nj
The PO put points in. I do not have any missing or popping which is good. I will change the spark plugs first. Should I put cooler spark plug in her during the hotter months here? Thereis a fuel filter in line to the carb which I changed and I can see flow going through with no air bubbles Thanks Mick
There are technical reasons to run a hotter or cooler spark plug, and i am not familiar with them. I do not think that the weather/air temperature is related tho.
I am not familiar also with points ignition, except for all the stories i hear about how bad are the replacement parts available from most sources, and the myriad of problems they cause.
Perhaps others can be more helpful.
I am not familiar also with points ignition, except for all the stories i hear about how bad are the replacement parts available from most sources, and the myriad of problems they cause.
Perhaps others can be more helpful.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 82
From: nj
Yes that is what I am hearing too about the replacement of parts. I might go to electronic ign. but I have to educate myself on this. I will need everything for this. Is it hard to convert to electronic ign? Thanks Mick
The best choice these days for electronic ignition is the Ultima, purchased from Jireh Cycles eBay store, $154.95 for the complete kit ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultima-Progr...item4d1f798cc4
If you are going to get one now is the time. They will not have them at this price forever. It is an easy install. A couple of parts of the instructions may be confusing so ask here if uncertain.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultima-Progr...item4d1f798cc4
If you are going to get one now is the time. They will not have them at this price forever. It is an easy install. A couple of parts of the instructions may be confusing so ask here if uncertain.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 82
From: nj
There is voes on my bike , PO installed a s&s carb so now is a good time to install one. I went to the instructions on website and they are little confusing too. Is there any tricks to make install a little easier. The way it looks everything comes out and just the advance goes in and all the parts comes with it
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For the VOES ...
I am not familiar with the S&S carbs. How is the vacuum tube installed? Does the S&S have a vacuum port? or does the tube run to a spigot on the manifold?
For the EI ...
Simple. Remove points assembly and cable, coil, spark plug wires. Install corresponding parts from the kit, set the switches, do the static timing, ride.
To run the cable from the module up to the coil you will have to drill out the hole to 5/16". This is easy to do with any 5/16" metal bit and hand drill. Stick something thru the hole first so you know exactly where it comes out so that you do not go too far. Drilling thru aluminum so it goes thru easily.
Do not set the VOES switch to ON regardless of whether you have VOES installed or not. This switch has a special meaning for race bikes only. Do not set it to ON.
Any wires in the harness that you do not use [tach wire for example] do not cut off in case you need them later. Thread them back into the harness.
I am not familiar with the S&S carbs. How is the vacuum tube installed? Does the S&S have a vacuum port? or does the tube run to a spigot on the manifold?
For the EI ...
Simple. Remove points assembly and cable, coil, spark plug wires. Install corresponding parts from the kit, set the switches, do the static timing, ride.
To run the cable from the module up to the coil you will have to drill out the hole to 5/16". This is easy to do with any 5/16" metal bit and hand drill. Stick something thru the hole first so you know exactly where it comes out so that you do not go too far. Drilling thru aluminum so it goes thru easily.
Do not set the VOES switch to ON regardless of whether you have VOES installed or not. This switch has a special meaning for race bikes only. Do not set it to ON.
Any wires in the harness that you do not use [tach wire for example] do not cut off in case you need them later. Thread them back into the harness.
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