My 2019 RKS w/ stage 3 kit received "the latest oil pump" in May of 2019 due to sumping. I'm not sure if it received this MY20 pump, but will look into it. Based on these dates, it might have. The bike is currently in the shop again, because of bad crank bearing due to new sumping. Harley just authorized a new short block and 117 kit under warranty. I was about to say screw the HD warranty and build an S&S 128 with their oil pump/plate. But, I think the 117 is enough power and not confident it is a pump problem, but a "feed the pump problem". I would love to see the engineer's calculations. This limited sheet says new pump has 8 lobes and they are smaller. How does it increase scavaging in the crank area by 44%?They are reducing scavaging by 4% in the cam area, but increasing scavaging in the crank area by 44% with smaller diameter gear pump that has smaller and less lobes. I am confused how that math works.
My 19 SGS was made 5/19 also and has an older 10 lobe so I guess I didn't make the cut off.
Not sure of the math either but figure less lobes leaves more room for oil.
How ever the math works I'm waiting on the new 8 lobe as I do a 128 kit.
Thank you, sir! I am ripping mine down this week, got the Cometic gaskets, and will run the jets over some wet 800 on my granite countertop.
Make sure you clean them up REALLY well, I mean spotless. I’d hate for grains of the abrasives from the sandpaper to be left inside the jets only to get sprayed onto your new cylinders/pistons. Yikes!
I put the Feuling 1091 on mine but it's probably the same gear as the Andrews. It's a really tight fit to and has absolutely no movement. You'll need a gear puller to take it off after you check your gear alignment.
Thank you, sir! I am ripping mine down this week, got the Cometic gaskets, and will run the jets over some wet 800 on my granite countertop.
Remember that the OEM screws are self-tapping. IMHO that is one of there problems. Since the drilled hole and the jet part are not precision parts you can get a screw that starts a little off center, this cause the torque to turn the screw to be higher than normal. Since the install tool at the factory measures Torque and stops once it reaches a preset level you get some that are tight while others are not. This is just why they have raised the recommended torque level twice, since the original spec. was released. Problem two is the HD gasket itself. They use a two sided sickie tape on it to hold it in place to the oil jet side. This has a mylar base with the stickie coating on it. The problem is that the stickie glue does not hold up to oil and/or heat. So with time this dissolves and allows the dimension to change and the screws to be looser than they were to begin with. Since we found this early in 2017 to be an issue we recommended to all our customers to remove the oil jet completely. Using one of the original screws, install it in a hole and slowly tighten it until the screw bottoms in the hole. This will cut the threads deep enough that when the oiler is install your only torque the assembly and NOT cutting threads. Also, if you plan to use HD gaskets soak them in lacquer thinner for a couple hours and allow it to remove the stickie tape. Make sure you remove the glue and the mylar piece. This will give you just a gasket that you allow to dry out prior to installing. Back when we told everyone about doing it this way there was no other source for this gasket, now there is. Since we got all our customers doing it this way, no one has had a oiler come loose again.
Before removing the oilers put a shop towel down in the case below the oiler area, it easy to get the rag to fill the area below the oiler and catch anything you may drop! There is not much room in there with the crankshaft in place. With split cases, its a breeze to just use a tap to fix the holes but with the crankshaft in place we found just using the original screw to cut the extra threads in place was easier. Also, if you plan to use a different screw than the OEM one make sure you get one that has a flange on it or get a small flat washer to spread the load out on the oiler itself. They are made out of pot metal and will bend easy enough from to small of a screw head.
I know this is an old thread however I was reading thru them as I have a 2020 Heritage 114 with 19k on the odometer. The bike has sumped. Brought it to a local indy who put in a S&S oil pump and plate. Haven't been able to put any miles on the bike do to the weather but now Im' beginning to wonder if its the piston oil jets. GEEZ...
11-30-2019, 06:38 PM
