There is no easy option sad to say. Patience and perseverance will get you there. I dug the Standards old cam bearing out of the drawer and had a tally up for you,



you should have 24 rollers and 24 pieces of cage, so less what you have found already, means 17 rollers & 12 pieces of cage still to account for. I'd scour the floor around the bike with a magnet first to ensure you don't waste time looking for a roller that's hidden itself under the bike. I'd flush out with kero or diesel at the end of the search anyway, to wash out everything.

 

Pretty much as dontdropit said, the jaws of the collet hadn't cleared the bearing. Instead of the jaws expanding behind the bearing shell, they expanded inside it and destroyed the cage as the bearing was dragged out of it's housing.

 

It appears the tool wasn’t seated properly into the bearing.
when I pulled the bearing out, only 3/4 of it was seated around the collet on an angle

 

This’s has happened to several others as well. If the puller isn’t inserted all of the way or if it had too little or too much pressure it will destroy the bearing.

 

Yes, inserting the collet takes extra care to make sure it has completely reached the bearing housing edge and snapped into place before pulling. I also noted on some new pullers that the collet jaws can be a bit stiff and needed to be compressed a bit with pliers to make it easier to insert but keep enough stiffness so they can snap back open at the other end of the bearing.
Pulling that bearing and lifter cuff bolts really got my attention.
Good luck.

 

So when extracting the bearing you werent watching the bearing? Im not sure how you could of pulled it out crooked - the mandrels on the collet open fully when set up right & the plate should ensure a straight bearing pull. any way good luck & this will be a lessoned learned for sure.

 

I'm with supernac. My inexpensive Borescope has an attachable magnet to it. But I'm afraid pulling one jug may be the way to go. I think I can speak for all, we'd like to see the puller you used. Was it a bolt on plate type with the full collett?

 

If the expander rod was not used through the center of the collet, then it would just collapse when trying to extract.

 

I have tried this with my borescope. The flywheel is blocking access from the crank sensor and the cam bearing hole.

At a minimum you will need to remove the front cylinder because it's the easiest to do. Then you may be able to fish out the pieces with a telescoping magnet.

 

Damn, sorry to see that. I just finished a few weeks ago a stage II myself, and I'm using Jim's cam bearing installer/remover. Seems like I saw on a video or two when putting the shaft/collet behind the original bearing you want to give it a slap on the *** but not too hard because of the thin wall behind that bearing cavity. Had me nervous but popped behind the bearing actually pretty easily and as I started winding that thing out I was looking every few turns to make sure the bearing was actually driving out and not just the collet.
Back in the early 80's I was building a 383 motor for my camaro which came stock with a v6, one day I was just changing the air filter on the v6 one bbl carb, no biggie. Anyway I was a teenager and driving to school and it dawned on me, thinking about that filter change, did I put the nut back on before the filter and cover went on, hmmmmmm, must have. Yeah I put it on but didn't tighten it down. I started hearing this rattling noise, went down the valves, into the pistons and the rest was history. To this day, I'm always double checking my work as I go when it comes to mechanical and engines. I only say that because at this point, for peace of mind, I'd open this motor up, be it pull a piston or split the case before I assumed I got all the bearing pieces out.
I guess where you're going now, I've never been. A bit scary but also very promising for the knowledge gained and the performance enhancements. Take your time and do some research on your next steps and I'm sure you'll be rewarded down the road. Good Luck.