many do not and unless your doing wheelies and beating on it you should be fine. But then you might not be fine. Most of the time you will be fine. If you have a 128 you like dont change it. No need for a street bike. If it was making you money then change it to a max effort with crank. When I bought this bike I was just going to do a cam and exhaust. Now I wish I had.

 

If it is out of spec, I will just order an S&S flywheel assembly. To answer your question, yes there are a couple of places that you can send them out to, but for the money, I will just get the S&S more than likely. Darkhorse is a popular assembly as well.

 

A S&S and a Dark Horse are both around the same price just the DH will be straighter and welded.

 

My FM 107-124 Stage IV build has 40k miles on it. I ride it hard and a lot of that time was spent in the 4000+ RPM range.

I would not hesitate to do another Fuel Moto Big Bore build!

 

Same here, I have ridden it hard, and that is why I am concerned with the runout measurement at 30K. It might be just fine, and if so, and the borescope shows no issues in either cylinder, I will just throw my new TMan HP heads on, and re-cam it.

That is part of my dilemma, I don't have enough compression to go with the cam that I want. If I go back with the FM 132, I will put the 11.25 CP pistons in, this time.

 

I just heard back from T Man. He said his sleeves bored to 4.310 is no problem. He would just go 131 over 128.

 

So after all this what are you after? There are trade-offs for everything you do, so what is it you want as your not going to get it all. I'm probably one of the worst what it come to wanting more as I have always lived with a good old saying, "Enough throttle is when you never find the end of it" anything less isn't enough. Now the trades that come with that are things do not live long lives, so we have to do everything we can to help it along which means more money spent. If your a city rider the bigger build will not last as long as the guy out on the open road get and if you live out west we cannot get the same fuel to run as those in the Midwest and east can. It all about how many hours the engine is running and how it's treated.

I tell everyone that out west a good 11.5:1 engine set up properly is about all we can do with the fuel and temperatures we get, back in the mid west and east they seem to get away with 12.5:1 or so they claim. Forged pistons, but which ones? There are two materiels used and they each are OK but one is better for long life durability and the other is better for bikes running power adders (ie: NOS, Supercharger, Turbo's ect.). If you use one versus the other the rules change on how the engine is built and one is not going to have the life of the other. Camshaft lift is another killer of parts so keep below the 0.560" lift, sure you can run more but the service life starts coming down quickly at that point. Pick your poison................

 

Im In the east and 93 is at every station. I live in the country and only travel open roads. I have a CR515 cam now and they are proven to get 150/150+ with the right setup. Ill be using Mahle 4036 Pistons. 11.3:1 i think ill stay. Im not racing I just want plenty of power when I want it and cruise most of the time. 21 Low Rider S. Im not racing just a street cruiser muscle bike. 93 octane CR515(could change) cam SE Extreme heads 64mm tb ported manifold, 6.8 injectors Jack Pot Riot exhaust.

 

We can only dream of 93 out west and were lucky to see 91 with ethanol. l think you mean 4032 material for the pistons and those are great pistons but they take a different piston to cylinder wall clearance than the same piston made out of 2618 material, so when the cylinders get finished they need to be for your 4032 pistons not 2618 clearances. When checking your real compression ratio by assemble measuring you can go to 11.5:1 and still be fine but I would not push it any above that. Remember that if the engine is setup with the tighter clearances that you run with 4032 pistons you need to make sure and break it in properly. I always leave the plugs out when ready to fire the engine for the first time, then spin the engine over on the starter motor for about 30 second. I do this three times before installing the plugs to fire it up, making sure not to over-heat the starter. This gives the oiling system a chance to fill up prior to the engine running for the first time.

 

90 seconds of spinning on the starter? Why? Don’t mean that snarky, I’m asking because I want to hear your reasoning. I prime the pump. Then afterwards do as you say for maybe 10-15 seconds once or until I see oil returning.. that usually only takes up to 10seconds.