Originally Posted by Steve Cole

We can only dream of 93 out west and were lucky to see 91 with ethanol. l think you mean 4032 material for the pistons and those are great pistons but they take a different piston to cylinder wall clearance than the same piston made out of 2618 material, so when the cylinders get finished they need to be for your 4032 pistons not 2618 clearances. When checking your real compression ratio by assemble measuring you can go to 11.5:1 and still be fine but I would not push it any above that. Remember that if the engine is setup with the tighter clearances that you run with 4032 pistons you need to make sure and break it in properly. I always leave the plugs out when ready to fire the engine for the first time, then spin the engine over on the starter motor for about 30 second. I do this three times before installing the plugs to fire it up, making sure not to over-heat the starter. This gives the oiling system a chance to fill up prior to the engine running for the first time.

Originally Posted by Rains2much

90 seconds of spinning on the starter? Why? Don’t mean that snarky, I’m asking because I want to hear your reasoning. I prime the pump. Then afterwards do as you say for maybe 10-15 seconds once or until I see oil returning.. that usually only takes up to 10seconds.

Originally Posted by JCunningham

many do not and unless your doing wheelies and beating on it you should be fine. But then you might not be fine. Most of the time you will be fine. If you have a 128 you like dont change it. No need for a street bike. If it was making you money then change it to a max effort with crank. When I bought this bike I was just going to do a cam and exhaust. Now I wish I had.

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Problem is there is nothing getting to the top end in 10 seconds. It has to first suck it up to fill the supply passage ways then fill the oil filter. On an Oil cooled version it also has to fill the oil cooler and then up to fill the heads for cooling. So what I have found is the starter motor starts getting hot after 30 seconds so I stop there and allow it to cool. The second time you typically have filled most of the system but not always. So the 3rd time just finishes it off. When the plugs are installed and you fire it up they are typically dead quite, no lifter ticking or other oil starved noises. This makes sure that oil gets to everything including the pistons prior to it being started.

Originally Posted by Rains2much

So I’m not saying your wrong.. I’m just pointing out differences in process and hoping you can share more insight.. I don’t know and haven’t worked with an m8. With evo and either the Ultima or S&S high volume pumps.. I fill the filter 3/4 with oil. I fill the cooler and lines all at assembly. I’m saying with in 15 seconds I’m seeing oil return to the oil tank and at the pump. Are you sharing it’s still not making it to the top end if it’s flowing into the oil tank return?

Originally Posted by JCunningham

For this reason you use assembly lube on everything that rubs. Make sure to oil your valve stem seals too. The SE assembly lube is sticky stuff and will protect until the oil washes it away.

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Assembly lube is NOT to be used on the pistons and cylinder walls, everywhere else it's pretty much fine.