Very Low speed front end wobble
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 157
Rear tire usually starts to cup by 6,000 miles using 42 psi in it. Lower pressure and it will cup sooner. Front should go much longer before cupping.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 765
Likes: 11
From: North East Ohio
Update on mileage 12,100 on original set
I still have plenty of tread left. I felt the front tire. It feels OK. But, I have never had a tire cup before. ( not to my knowledge) How do I know if it is cupping?
I still have plenty of tread left. I felt the front tire. It feels OK. But, I have never had a tire cup before. ( not to my knowledge) How do I know if it is cupping?
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 166
Likes: 24
From: Washington
As you look across the top of the tire, the tread (pavement contact patches) will appear un-even in height. Difficult to explain but you will know when you see it.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 252
Likes: 50
From: Georgia
I had an issue with the front end of my '14 FLHTK that I also described as low speed wobble. At parking lot speeds, it felt like there was something loose between my handlebars and the front wheel. The "looseness" moderated at higher speeds, and the bike handled ok on the highway, but it would come back at slow speeds. I had the neck bearings checked, as well as the torque on the handlebar clamps.
I went so far as to replace the front end suspension and went to a tire with a different tread pattern. All of these things made it a little bit better. Finally, though, I found a post in this forum that suggested looking at the handlebar riser bushings. I have yet to actually pull out and check those bushings, but what I did find was that the bolt through those bushings that you access from the bottom of the top triple tree wasn't properly torqued. It wasn't way loose, but it took about 3/4 of a turn to bring the bolt to torque spec of 38 lb-ft.
Cranking those bolts down made all the difference in the world. I got immediate relief from the slow speed wobble. That was about 15k miles ago. Recently, I started to sense a little wobble again, and sure enough, those same bolts had backed out slightly. Re-torqued them, and wobble gone.
So, the next time I sense any wobble, I will pull the fairing and get in and replace the riser bushings, and then also Blue Loctite the bolts.
The riser bolt heads are easily accessible if you swing the handlebars to one side and then the other. Look up at the bottom of the top triple tree and they will be obvious. You can reach them with a socket wrench and a 3 inch extension.
I went so far as to replace the front end suspension and went to a tire with a different tread pattern. All of these things made it a little bit better. Finally, though, I found a post in this forum that suggested looking at the handlebar riser bushings. I have yet to actually pull out and check those bushings, but what I did find was that the bolt through those bushings that you access from the bottom of the top triple tree wasn't properly torqued. It wasn't way loose, but it took about 3/4 of a turn to bring the bolt to torque spec of 38 lb-ft.
Cranking those bolts down made all the difference in the world. I got immediate relief from the slow speed wobble. That was about 15k miles ago. Recently, I started to sense a little wobble again, and sure enough, those same bolts had backed out slightly. Re-torqued them, and wobble gone.
So, the next time I sense any wobble, I will pull the fairing and get in and replace the riser bushings, and then also Blue Loctite the bolts.
The riser bolt heads are easily accessible if you swing the handlebars to one side and then the other. Look up at the bottom of the top triple tree and they will be obvious. You can reach them with a socket wrench and a 3 inch extension.
Last edited by GaJayhawk; May 16, 2016 at 07:24 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 765
Likes: 11
From: North East Ohio
I had an issue with the front end of my '14 FLHTK that I also described as low speed wobble. At parking lot speeds, it felt like there was something loose between my handlebars and the front wheel. The "looseness" moderated at higher speeds, and the bike handled ok on the highway, but it would come back at slow speeds. I had the neck bearings checked, as well as the torque on the handlebar clamps.
I went so far as to replace the front end suspension and went to a tire with a different tread pattern. All of these things made it a little bit better. Finally, though, I found a post in this forum that suggested looking at the handlebar riser bushings. I have yet to actually pull out and check those bushings, but what I did find was that the bolt through those bushings that you access from the bottom of the top triple tree wasn't properly torqued. It wasn't way loose, but it took about 3/4 of a turn to bring the bolt to torque spec of 38 lb-ft.
Cranking those bolts down made all the difference in the world. I got immediate relief from the slow speed wobble. That was about 15k miles ago. Recently, I started to sense a little wobble again, and sure enough, those same bolts had backed out slightly. Re-torqued them, and wobble gone.
So, the next time I sense any wobble, I will pull the fairing and get in and replace the riser bushings, and then also Blue Loctite the bolts.
The riser bolt heads are easily accessible if you swing the handlebars to one side and then the other. Look up at the bottom of the top triple tree and they will be obvious. You can reach them with a socket wrench and a 3 inch extension.
I went so far as to replace the front end suspension and went to a tire with a different tread pattern. All of these things made it a little bit better. Finally, though, I found a post in this forum that suggested looking at the handlebar riser bushings. I have yet to actually pull out and check those bushings, but what I did find was that the bolt through those bushings that you access from the bottom of the top triple tree wasn't properly torqued. It wasn't way loose, but it took about 3/4 of a turn to bring the bolt to torque spec of 38 lb-ft.
Cranking those bolts down made all the difference in the world. I got immediate relief from the slow speed wobble. That was about 15k miles ago. Recently, I started to sense a little wobble again, and sure enough, those same bolts had backed out slightly. Re-torqued them, and wobble gone.
So, the next time I sense any wobble, I will pull the fairing and get in and replace the riser bushings, and then also Blue Loctite the bolts.
The riser bolt heads are easily accessible if you swing the handlebars to one side and then the other. Look up at the bottom of the top triple tree and they will be obvious. You can reach them with a socket wrench and a 3 inch extension.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 252
Likes: 50
From: Georgia
No. Turn the handlebars full lock to the right, and then look up under the left side of the top triple tree from the left side of the bike. May need to get on your knees to see it, but the hex head of the bolt will be obvious. You should have sufficient clearance to get a socket on it, but I needed an extender to get enough room to swing the ratchet and torque wrench.
Then swing the bars to the left and repeat to get to the right riser bolt.
Then swing the bars to the left and repeat to get to the right riser bolt.
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 166
Likes: 24
From: Washington
I have been pondering this issue and reminded me of a similar problem I had on one of my bikes. I took the wheels in for new tires and balance. I brought them home, installed and went riding. At that point I experienced a problem similar to your description. Pulled wheels back off, took to bike shop to re-balance. The tech said everything looked good. Not satisfied I went to a different shop down the street, their tech checked them and said the front was way off. He re-balanced to his spec and said I would good to go. I went home, installed, rode the bike and surprise, smooth as silk no more wobble. In your case (original tires), check to make sure you didn't loose a wheel weight.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5,644
Likes: 1,385
From: North Central WV
Take your hand and make it into a letter C. Run that down the tread of the tire. If the tread feels lumpy, uneven, etc.....you have a cupped front tire.
I found mine by placing my hand on the tire while checking the brakes.
You'll know it when you feel it.