I started changing my own oil in the RK. The last 4 changes were done by a busy, small local vtwin shop.

Tranny plug was only torqued to about 2 ft/pounds, same with the oil plug. The orings were shredded and they put plumbers white thread compound on both.

Cleaned them up and put new orings on both from my $5 flea market oring assortment kit.

Anyhow, in torquing them to 14 ft-pounds I felt like it was not seating the whole way (like possibly someone had stripped the aluminum a bit) and I backed off when the bolt was probably at about 5-6ft/lbs. Then I cursed the SOB's who touched this prior to now for a while. I know for certain it wasn't cross-threading -- very positive start on the threading.

Does it take a while to compress the oring?

Too much risk in the bolt vibrating out not to torque to 14ft/#? thoughts? It would indeed suck to have it fall out -- burn up the engine.... stranded, etc...

thoughts?

 

Not knowing the whole situation I can only tell you what I would do. First of all I would get the right O Ring from Harley. Your O ring from the swap meet is not the correct one and that is probably what is keeping you from getting the right torque. The white stuff on the threads is pipe dope and it is ok to use. It is not a lock tite but will slow down a plug that wants to back out. While you are at the dealer ask for the right torque spec for your particular application.

 

As mentioned- get the right o-ring for your bike. They're dirt cheap so buy a half-dozen so you won't be tempted to reuse it next time. The pipe dope is put on by the shop to seal the threads so the shop doesn't have to replace the o-ring. It's a $hitty way of doing maintenance considering the o-rings don't cost squat, and they could charge you an extra buck on the service and still make money off replacing it. It's just a shortcut & pipe dope is cheap.
For any future maintenance you don't do yourself I'd find a different shop...

As for your current problem- I'd go buy some pipe dope, put it on the threads, put on a new o-ring, and tighten it down. Set the torque wrench to 14 ft/lbs and snart tightening. If the drainplug feels like it's not going to tighten to torque after it seats you can always run it just snug like it was. It didn't leak before when it was just snugged down...

 

O rings don't need torque. By the time the plug bottoms out on the flange it's good to go as the pocket it fits into controls it's compressed state. Final torque is to hold the plug in from loosening by metal to metal contact between the face on the plug and the case. Any buna grade o ring is acceptable, just pick the correct dia and cross section dimensions. Put oil on it before putting the plug in or it will chew itself up as you snug the plug up. That's important. No way I'd use the torque spec on these plugs unless you want future thread damage . A touch better than snug is all you need as the oring acts like a locking agent on the plug so it won't vibrate out.
Ron

 

Agree