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I "repaired" the coolant hose on my 2023 by removing 1/4" and pushing it on further. 2023 should have necessary clearance, but I'm pro-active on this bike since most problems are known. I'm riding it hard and confident it will be fine! This thing is a DART!
I had a few problems out of my 2017 Road King right off the bat (loose front brake rotors, non-activated alarm system, 2nd key fob not activated) but they were quickly remedied by the dealer & I had no other problems out of the bike for the 2 years I had it. So, a few hiccups don't scare me. Still, I've got what amounts to 2 rides on my PA-S & it's been to the dealer 3 times for repairs. My Sportsters & my Dyna never gave me a problem. Weird about the CVO, that's the MoCo's flagship product?
Oh, before I forget to document it in this thread, my PA-S also had a split on the heat shielding wrap/cover for the O2 sensor wires on my front header. The dealer said they'll check it out while it's there.
The only thing that causes me anxiety is the radiator hose being so close to the front header pipe. It's bad engineering & obviously dangerous. That hose bursts & coolant will spay the engine, leak down directly into the skid plate, & be funneled directly at the rear tire. Last I checked, coolant on tires isn't great for "grip". I'm surprised the DOT/NHTSA hasn't forced a recall. Even worse? That H-D hasn't taken it upon themselves to fix it & protect their "valued customers". Possible fixes are relatively easy & cheap- silicon instead of rubber hose, heat shield, header wrap, etc. The cheapest & easiest fix would likely be the DEI hose covers specifically made to protect from high heat (pic related below). Really, the MoCo has no excuses.
I "repaired" the coolant hose on my 2023 by removing 1/4" and pushing it on further. 2023 should have necessary clearance, but I'm pro-active on this bike since most problems are known. I'm riding it hard and confident it will be fine! This thing is a DART!
I'd likely do the same, but I'm letting the dealer make everything right.
How was purging the coolant system, did it have to run very long to get out all of the air before capping it?
I only ask because I'd seen someone was having an overheating problem after doing the same fix.
A friend of mine bought the 1st PA and had too many issues with it. It spent weeks at a time at the dealership they even had a master tech flew in to sort out the issues. Finally Moco gave him 2023 PA and so far so good nothing major except few dummy codes. He always carry battery tender and extension cord with him and plug it in at motel overnight.
A friend of mine bought the 1st PA and had too many issues with it. It spent weeks at a time at the dealership they even had a master tech flew in to sort out the issues. Finally Moco gave him 2023 PA and so far so good nothing major except few dummy codes. He always carry battery tender and extension cord with him and plug it in at motel overnight.
This (https://no.co/gb40) is much better than carrying a tender and extension cord.
Bought my PA a year ago. After purchasing the bike and getting ready to ride off the bike didnt start by pushing the start. The sales puke said i was holding the button down and thats not the way to start the bike. They had just ran me through this start procedure so i know i didnt hold the button down. I told him the battery voltage on the dash is low its showing 11.8 or 11.9 cant remember exactly. Puke said thats normal voltage. After a couple attempts by him the bike finally started. I figured by riding the bike the charging system would charge it. They did send me home with an HD 1A tender for it.
Few months later i bring the bike back in as the ARH wasnt working (wired wrong at main harness under seat) and the Warning light seems to appear and disappear intermittenly all the time. They call me a couple days later and say nothings wrong. All they did is upgrade firmware. All of a sudden ARH works. The guy bounces on the bike to load the pre load and starts it and the ARH works now. I ask about the wiring and he said they checked it and its wired correct. I check and triple check the book and the harness when i got home and the wiring is still not correct so not sure what thats all about. The warning light still appears and disappears. What im not sure about, does the ARH Front and Rear work in tandem? I know the rear drops down at a stop but i dont feel the front drop down.
Several months go by and the warning light and codes are getting annoying. Figured i need it sorted before warranty runs out. The bike seemed to run hot. got to 235 while at a stop light for a few minutes in only 95 degree weather. At that time the RPMS seemed to drop down to an almost stall so i gave it some maintenance throttle to keep it running at the stop light. Also the battery never seems to charge more than 12volts on the dash prior to start and i keep their little tender plugged in all the time. The charging system works as ill see it at 14.1 while riding. So i bring it in. A week later They call me and say nothings wrong. They tell me bike doesnt run hot and if it hits 265 then i should worry. WTF are they serious. I insist they load test the battery. The puke over the phone says 12 volts is good as its a 12volt system. So i go to pick up the bike they tell me that all it needed was upgraded firmware at all controls and dash as that solves most of the issues and its all good. They did a battery load test and said its health is good.
As im riding home the warning symbol comes on and stays on. Get home and check for codes and theres a few. I look at the battery load test and its shows 12.5 volts and a measured 385 CCA. Now unless im missing something here im pretty sure that OEM battery doesnt have 385 CCA. Did they test a car battery and take me for a spin? I call them and tell them im bringing the bike back and dont call me until the warning light and codes are gone for good. I bring up the battery load test with 385 CCA and a tech said thats how the test reads out.
I love the bike but if it is going to live at the dealer with only a few thousand miles and they keep taking me for a ride i may have to go another route.
Bought my PA a year ago. After purchasing the bike and getting ready to ride off the bike didnt start by pushing the start. The sales puke said i was holding the button down and thats not the way to start the bike. They had just ran me through this start procedure so i know i didnt hold the button down. I told him the battery voltage on the dash is low its showing 11.8 or 11.9 cant remember exactly. Puke said thats normal voltage. After a couple attempts by him the bike finally started. I figured by riding the bike the charging system would charge it. They did send me home with an HD 1A tender for it.
Few months later i bring the bike back in as the ARH wasnt working (wired wrong at main harness under seat) and the Warning light seems to appear and disappear intermittenly all the time. They call me a couple days later and say nothings wrong. All they did is upgrade firmware. All of a sudden ARH works. The guy bounces on the bike to load the pre load and starts it and the ARH works now. I ask about the wiring and he said they checked it and its wired correct. I check and triple check the book and the harness when i got home and the wiring is still not correct so not sure what thats all about. The warning light still appears and disappears. What im not sure about, does the ARH Front and Rear work in tandem? I know the rear drops down at a stop but i dont feel the front drop down.
Several months go by and the warning light and codes are getting annoying. Figured i need it sorted before warranty runs out. The bike seemed to run hot. got to 235 while at a stop light for a few minutes in only 95 degree weather. At that time the RPMS seemed to drop down to an almost stall so i gave it some maintenance throttle to keep it running at the stop light. Also the battery never seems to charge more than 12volts on the dash prior to start and i keep their little tender plugged in all the time. The charging system works as ill see it at 14.1 while riding. So i bring it in. A week later They call me and say nothings wrong. They tell me bike doesnt run hot and if it hits 265 then i should worry. WTF are they serious. I insist they load test the battery. The puke over the phone says 12 volts is good as its a 12volt system. So i go to pick up the bike they tell me that all it needed was upgraded firmware at all controls and dash as that solves most of the issues and its all good. They did a battery load test and said its health is good.
As im riding home the warning symbol comes on and stays on. Get home and check for codes and theres a few. I look at the battery load test and its shows 12.5 volts and a measured 385 CCA. Now unless im missing something here im pretty sure that OEM battery doesnt have 385 CCA. Did they test a car battery and take me for a spin? I call them and tell them im bringing the bike back and dont call me until the warning light and codes are gone for good. I bring up the battery load test with 385 CCA and a tech said thats how the test reads out.
I love the bike but if it is going to live at the dealer with only a few thousand miles and they keep taking me for a ride i may have to go another route.
Dang, sorry man. I think you need to try a different dealer. My dealer texted me yesterday that they'd fixed my burned radiator hose (the new one looks like a smaller diameter) but the front O2 sensor w/wire & cover were on backorder, and they had no idea when it'd come in. So, the bike was going to sit there for an undetermined amount of time until the part showed up. It's been 2 & a half weeks since I bought the bike, it's (not joking or exaggerating) sat in the dealer's service area more than it's been in my possession in that time.
Because of my experience in dealing with vendors, salesmen, & customers (over the phone, most don't care what your problems are), I took the almost 200-mile round trip to the dealership (people tend to be more apt to do their job when the customer is standing there face to face) & said this was unacceptable. Is my Road King that I traded in not ridable? Does it need any parts? "No, it doesn't". I said "If this is going to be what it's like then I'll just take my Road King back as I know that won't give me a single problem. I mean hell, when I walked in here originally to buy a bike, I was just looking to get 1 of the Glides for the fairing.". He started looking at numbers for how much a Street/Road Glide would be & parts/service had found the O2 sensor either just before I arrived or while I was standing there. He asked if I still wanted to get rid of the PA-S, I said "I love the bike but just don't trust it. With my luck so far, it's likely to die just after my warranty expires". He asked if they added an extra year to the extended warranty plan if that would help with my fears. After thinking about it I said yes.
So, they added another year of ESP on their dime. They also said my bike will be done next week as they'd found my O2 sensor at a dealership in another state & were having it shipped ASAP. So far, I can't blame the dealer, they are trying. The MoCo however, well, they really seem to be trying the patience of faithful customers.
A friend of mine bought the 1st PA and had too many issues with it. It spent weeks at a time at the dealership they even had a master tech flew in to sort out the issues. Finally Moco gave him 2023 PA and so far so good nothing major except few dummy codes. He always carry battery tender and extension cord with him and plug it in at motel overnight.
My last bike was a triumph explorer, I took that thing in the middle of no-where on multi day camping trips. I don’t think I ever plugged it into a tender for the years I owned it. Can’t imagine owning an adventure touring bike that I had to plug in every night.
Fired up the PA this morning to go exploring. Got down the road a few hundred feet and noticed I had a CEL. Running fine, but up to the dealer I went. Initially told me 3 weeks to get it in. After some negotiations, told me to bring it in Monday. Hopefully it’s a dummy code. Nothing shows up in the diagnostic menu.
Fired up the PA this morning to go exploring. Got down the road a few hundred feet and noticed I had a CEL. Running fine, but up to the dealer I went. Initially told me 3 weeks to get it in. After some negotiations, told me to bring it in Monday. Hopefully it’s a dummy code. Nothing shows up in the diagnostic menu.
Does it have codes? Check your Manuel on how to read codes.
