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Basically what I'm saying is I couldn't use my tender as a boost to start the bike like you would with a regular charger. It'd pop a fuse every time on the bike.
Maybe. I just got home after riding 200 miles (474 total miles ridden by me since I bought it on 6/5/23), my 2021 PA-S is running great, charging the battery, but I had the county tar my road so I had the tremendous pain of cleaning it when I got home. I'd ridden to the dealer I bought it from, they were hosting Adam Sandoval.
Anyway, while cleaning it I noticed a spot on the radiator hose near the front head pipe. I rubbed the spot, gooey rubber came off on my finger. The hose is melting from being too close to the header pipe (sad trombone sounds), but I caught it before it blew. I called the dealer, sent them pics (1 of which is below), & they said they'll come and get it again & fix it. The dealer is totally apologetic & I'm waiting for service to set a up a time for tomorrow to come and pic it up again.
Oh well, at this rate the whole bike will be new when I finally get to really ride it.
There's a pretty good chance that radiator hose will slip forward again after they replace it. They do have a fix, basically added a bolt to the radiator that a clamp attaches to, but it does require them to change out the radiator as well. I had to do a little pushing to get them to make the change, but I was also on my 3rd hose so they had a choice to see if it held, or hand me a new bike on Lemon law if it slipped again. They are basically calling it an upgrade part not a warranty part right now, not sure if it is standard on the 23 model or not.
There's a pretty good chance that radiator hose will slip forward again after they replace it. They do have a fix, basically added a bolt to the radiator that a clamp attaches to, but it does require them to change out the radiator as well. I had to do a little pushing to get them to make the change, but I was also on my 3rd hose so they had a choice to see if it held, or hand me a new bike on Lemon law if it slipped again. They are basically calling it an upgrade part not a warranty part right now, not sure if it is standard on the 23 model or not.
They can't pick my PA-S up until Wednesday next week, though I can bring it in earlier myself (with help from an old solution, I think can make it without bursting the hose). Per H-D, they can only replace the hose and they can only replace the hose if it's damaged (mine obviously is). So, even if it's too close, until the hose starts showing signs that it's breaking down- you as an owner are SOL. Hmm, it seems this is a somewhat common problem. Replacing a whole radiator just to fix it seems like overkill too. I think an enterprising person could mold a silicon radiator hose for the Pan Am & make themselves a few dollars.
Last night after a little thought, I decided to go with a fix from my youth since all I knew they'd do at that point is replace the hose- DEI exhaust wrap. I'm going to get some in black or one of their flexiblle heat sheilds (pic below). Both options are fairly cheap & both will work just fine I'm sure. I just have to make sure I don't go too thick if I use the wrap or that I don't get any rubbing with either solution. I'm going to think about the silicon hose though, quite a few options with 90* and 135* bends from at least a few manufacturers that I've already seen. Why the engineers at H-D didn't go with silicon in the 1st place (or now for that matter) with the header that close is beyond comprehension.
Just got off the phone with my dealer, and the issue was .
Disconnected fuel line.
Thanks for all the responses, and if you replied with disconnected fuel line, you win the internet for today.
Thanks again,
Rob
Nice, that's great (well, that it's a simple fix & not something much worse) news! This thread has been a learning experience & like me, you now have a whole list of potential problems to watch out for/be aware of. I'll be getting a 4amp tender today as earlier this week I found out from the dealer's tech that's what H-D says is correct for the Pan Ams. That's something new I've learned about the Pan Am needing but that I'd not read anywhere else. Since I always unplug my tender before I start the bike, I won't have to worry about it blowing fuses. Watch your radiator hose like a hawk, or preemptively attack the potential problem with exhaust wrap or a heat shield. Since I'm still dealing with problems, I'll continue to update this thread.
Also, as a bright (or low) spot, know that H-D isn't the only manufacturer with engineering that's not quite up to snuff. In the last few years Honda's (yes, HONDA) engineers thought it was a good idea to place an oil hose next to the exhaust on their CBR1000RR Fireblades. The hose of course would melt & blow, dowsing the underside of the bike & rear tire with oil. Recall: All 2021 Honda CBR1000RR-R SP Fireblades May Develop Oil Leak (rideapart.com) You can guess how dangerous that is. Of course, coolant isn't good for traction either & I'm surprised the DOT hasn't demanded H-D do a recall at this point.
After getting the PA back on Friday, I did a 500 mile turn & burn over the weekend to get out of the break-in period. Bike performed flawlessly, and allowed a couple of close friends take it for a spin. To say that the looks on their faces after was priceless, is an understatement. Riding Michigan roads have never felt this good. To be able to not clench, and your raise *** out of the seat when you run over a heave in the roads here, is awesome. I found myself going an excess of 100 mph on open stretches, and not even realizing it.
Thanks again for all the support & knowledge in here.
I have seen this behavior on multiple bikes not only when the batter isnt charged enough - but when the keyfob battery is dying. Completely dead - and the lock screen will come up - but if its just too weak - it does no such thing. I have found the fob battery to last only a year. I replace
it every year and also keep a spare in the tank bag.
the user manual says to olug the bike in if not riding for a couple weeks. I have found that troublesome. I now tender the battery if the bike will sit more than 2 days.
these two knowledge bytes have much improved my experience with the bike
I have seen this behavior on multiple bikes not only when the batter isnt charged enough - but when the keyfob battery is dying. Completely dead - and the lock screen will come up - but if its just too weak - it does no such thing. I have found the fob battery to last only a year. I replace
it every year and also keep a spare in the tank bag.
the user manual says to olug the bike in if not riding for a couple weeks. I have found that troublesome. I now tender the battery if the bike will sit more than 2 days.
these two knowledge bytes have much improved my experience with the bike
They replaced my keyfob battery 10 minutes before I left the 1st time, I don't think that was the problem. I'll tender my bike unless I'm on a trip, then I guess we'll see how it does holding a charge. The dealer came & picked my up PA-S today to change out the melted radiator hose. I noticed the front header pipe's O2 sensor wires had a cover that was split & asked if they could fix that too.
lol, luckily, I've become a more patient understanding man since I've hit 40. I'm missing riding though, really missing it.
Last edited by silverbulletking; Jun 21, 2023 at 01:21 PM.
21 Special here. I have only had starting issue once when the bike was outside in sub 35 degree temps over night. I do replace all my FOB batteries yearly including my cars. I only put the bike on the tender during the winter when it may be weeks before taking it out. Otherwise, it can easily sit for 5 days off tender with no issues. I went through the well documented early issues that the software updated fixed. Now, I am in the middle of the 2nd 2500 mile trip this year and coming to really trust this bike. I had a CVO Roadglide that was more trouble than my Pan America.
21 Special here. I have only had starting issue once when the bike was outside in sub 35 degree temps over night. I do replace all my FOB batteries yearly including my cars. I only put the bike on the tender during the winter when it may be weeks before taking it out. Otherwise, it can easily sit for 5 days off tender with no issues. I went through the well documented early issues that the software updated fixed. Now, I am in the middle of the 2nd 2500 mile trip this year and coming to really trust this bike. I had a CVO Roadglide that was more trouble than my Pan America.
I had a few problems out of my 2017 Road King right off the bat (loose front brake rotors, non-activated alarm system, 2nd key fob not activated) but they were quickly remedied by the dealer & I had no other problems out of the bike for the 2 years I had it. So, a few hiccups don't scare me. Still, I've got what amounts to 2 rides on my PA-S & it's been to the dealer 3 times for repairs. My Sportsters & my Dyna never gave me a problem. Weird about the CVO, that's the MoCo's flagship product?
Oh, before I forget to document it in this thread, my PA-S also had a split on the heat shielding wrap/cover for the O2 sensor wires on my front header. The dealer said they'll check it out while it's there.
The only thing that causes me anxiety is the radiator hose being so close to the front header pipe. It's bad engineering & obviously dangerous. That hose bursts & coolant will spay the engine, leak down directly into the skid plate, & be funneled directly at the rear tire. Last I checked, coolant on tires isn't great for "grip". I'm surprised the DOT/NHTSA hasn't forced a recall. Even worse? That H-D hasn't taken it upon themselves to fix it & protect their "valued customers". Possible fixes are relatively easy & cheap- silicon instead of rubber hose, heat shield, header wrap, etc. The cheapest & easiest fix would likely be the DEI hose covers specifically made to protect from high heat (pic related below). Really, the MoCo has no excuses.
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