Finally got some nice weather and got out for the first time after my 107 upgrade. It’s a 2009 FLHX with Woods 777 cam. And no surprise, the stock clutch won’t hold. So I ordered up some Barnett Kevlar plates. My question is what spring should I get? I don’t want a clutch lever I need Popeye grip to pull but I want the clutch to hookup. I understand the 96” bikes came with a pretty weak spring to begin with.

Thanks for the help.

 

I would use the SE spring.Some of the others are way more spring than you need. I did this on my 16 SG and it worked just fine.

 

I did the E1 extra plate kit with their +15% spring with my 107. The friction discs have a larger friction area which helps as much as a stiffer spring does.
If you really want good hookup tho, run an ATF like B&M TrickShift in the primary.

 

This is good advice.. An SE spring will handle a lot without being to hard on the hand..

 

Thanks for the advice.

I opened up the primary and to my surprise it already has the SE spring. At least it’s .078” thick anyway. Digging into a used bike is always fun.

Barnett plates I ordered turned out to be back ordered so I canceled that. Finally found some plates locally and put it back together with the spring I had. Installed a VP026 from Fuel Moto to help it out. Clutch pull feels great. But it’s been cold with rain or snow since I got it back together. I’ll update whenever this weather breaks.

 

I was finally able to get out and ride a little today. I’m very happy with how the clutch is working. It hooks up great when I jump on it but is still easy for me to pull in low speed parking lot type stuff. It’s a little stiff when above 4500 rpm but not bad. Neutral is a pain but I hope that gets better with a few miles on it.

 

Cool, glad to hear.. Finding Neutral is not an issue with the spring. Recheck you clutch adjustment.. It might be a little loose...

 

I was guessing the new clutch plates would have more drag until they broke in a little. Is that not the case?

 

Possibly.. Give it a little time..

 

That's the problem with using the clutch hats. Makes speed shifting real difficult at higher rpms. Are you still using the SE spring besides? If so I'd definitely go back to a lighter spring. I sure wouldn't use one AND a performance spring.
I contemplated going with the AIM VP98 but didn't just for this reason.
The problem finding neutral is due to clutch drag(stiction) and is the result of the fluid being thick not allowing the plates/discs to separate properly. Especially when cold. Not an issue running ATF. Some clutch manufacturers actually recommend ATF such as B&M TrickShift.

From Barnett...

ATF? Automatic transmission fluids can be used in motorcycles designed with a separate oil supply to the clutch assembly. Type F will give you a harsher, more positive clutch engagement. GM (Dexron) will give you a smoother, more linear engagement. Harley Davidson Note: We have had numerous reports of Formula Plus oil causing clutch plate "sticking" in cold starts, especially in cold weather zones.

From Energy One...

...Plates should be pre-soaked in the same fluid you will be using in the bike for about 10-15 minutes. The type of fluids we recommend are any HD petroleum based, non-synthetic, primary oil, as light weight as possible, or even a good petroleum based motor oil such as 10/40 or 20/50 in weight. You can even use ATF Type F or B&M Trickshift. THE USE OF SYNTHETICS IS NOT RECOMMENDED AS THEY TEND TO CAUSE SLIPPAGE.