Which Clutch Spring?
That's the problem with using the clutch hats. Makes speed shifting real difficult at higher rpms. Are you still using the SE spring besides? If so I'd definitely go back to a lighter spring. I sure wouldn't use one AND a performance spring.
I contemplated going with the AIM VP98 but didn't just for this reason.
The problem finding neutral is due to clutch drag(stiction) and is the result of the fluid being thick not allowing the plates/discs to separate properly. Especially when cold. Not an issue running ATF. Some clutch manufacturers actually recommend ATF such as B&M TrickShift.
I contemplated going with the AIM VP98 but didn't just for this reason.
The problem finding neutral is due to clutch drag(stiction) and is the result of the fluid being thick not allowing the plates/discs to separate properly. Especially when cold. Not an issue running ATF. Some clutch manufacturers actually recommend ATF such as B&M TrickShift.
I finally have about 500 miles on the bike now. Weather and schedule have not cooperated. Neutral is getting easier to find and I'm still very happy with the clutch. Hooks up and isn't hard to pull. I'd say it's a little stiffer pull when revved up but it's not bad at all. The friction zone is easy to control at low speed and it hooks when I get on it. I'm calling it good and going to leave it alone. (we all know that's not going to happen)
I've used the 1275N and I like it. I have shorty levers and don't have any problems with the force required. Although, it is a lot stiffer than stock. I still have the stock clutch pack on a Stage 2 107, putting out 109/114.5 and it holds great. It is a little less linear than stock if I engage quickly, with more of an on/off engagement. But if I am doing my job (steady on the lever) it is smooth.
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