Primary Oil: ATF vs Redline vs Motul vs Spectro Vs Bel Ray vs Lucas
Since the oil thread said no new post I wanted to get some opinions on the following primary oils with desired results etc.. As well as info I have gathered from experience and forums.
SIde note: I absolutely love motul engine oil and spectro gear oil for transmission. Both have performed amazing for me with wows when changing and running
I have 2 goals. So might use 2 different primary oils
First Bike; 2001 fxdxt with harley 120R engine with baker 6OD tranny. Has a Heavy duty diaphragm spring and a extra plate clutch pack with those weight aim pressure plate (will upgrading to barnett). Want a performance primary oil.
second and third bike 2001 fxdx, and 2001 fxdwg 2 CVO. Want a solid oil for longevity and something that protects compensator and chain.
ATF:
Used ATF Trick shift type F in a 1994 fxr that had a 130 ultima and barnett clutch. The oil was extremely thin clutch engagement was really good for a perfomance bike. I did not own it long enough to see how the compensator wear was.
My take is this fluid is very thin. Great for clutch engagement may not be the best for primary drivetrain wear.
should be around 7 cst @100C
lowest viscosity out of all primary fluids ive researched and used.
Redline:
Synthetic primary oil with a weight 5w30 (75w80 gear oil) and Vis @ 100°C 10.4 cst.
Seems nice and thin for good clutch engagement and enough viscosity to protect the chain and compensator.
Although I havent been the biggest fan of redline when i tried there gear oil.
People talk down about synthetics in the primary but this one was specially developed for it and not the engine
Motul Primary and chaincase oil:
Another synthetic that has a weight of 10w40 (85w gear oil)
Couldnt find any info on Vis @ 100°C but assuming its around 14-15 cst based on its weight
Again another synthetic specifically made for the primary. Thicker than the redline so may affect clutch engagement but should be good on the chain etc.
One thing Id like to say is the synthetics in theory should degrade less and protect the primary when riding in the desert (I live in socal so this could be a huge benefit). Obviously could just change the primary oil more often but id rather not.
Now on to conventional or semi synthetics
Spectro:
This chain case oil is a 85 weight gear oil and is most likely very similar to the motul synthetic primary fluid
Couldn't find the data but looks to be Vis @ 100°C but assuming its around 14-15 cst based on its weight.
Seems like another good choose with good clutch engagement and protecting the primary.
Also just seems like the same exact thing as the lucas primary oil (which is what is currently in all my bikes)
Only a couple dollars more than lucas....
LUCAS:
Cheap easy to find and has a Vis @ 100°C 14.44 cst. Most likely another 10w40 (85 gear oil)
One thing Ive noticed is after a few thousand miles and some hard riding this fluid smells bad and seems burnt and degraded.
Clutch engagement is nice. Good performing oil but nothing that is a wow. When I switched from amsoil to motul in the engine I noticed a huge difference in blow by and also how new the fluid still looked and smelled when I change it.
Bel Ray:
The lightest weight and lowest viscosity
80w gear oil Viscosity @ 100°C, 9.53 cst
The lowest CST besides ATF. Havent heard the best reviews on this.
IN theory should have the best clutch engagement and least wear protection on the primary parts
I have been researching this hard and long. OCD probably about something that really wont matter....but what are your opinions.
I know all the big clutch companies recommend ATF...might be the best for the clutch pack but what about all the other moving parts....
Thicker oil appears to give the less clutch perfomance...so its kind of like a trade off. IN the performance application go with lowest viscosity and for the bikes i want to run forever with no problems highest viscosity and synthetic??????? MAYBE EVEN SYNTHETIC 20w50...like motuls 7100 thats already in the engine....
For my T sport with the 120R i was thinking the following: With clutch performance at top of priority list
1. ATF Type F or Dexron ( Although i dont want to do this lol)
2. Redline
3. Bel Ray
4. Spectro
5. Motul
For my runners and garage queen:
1. Motul primary and chaincase oil
2.Spectro Primary oil
3.Lucas Primary Oil
Seems like one of those things where you cant have one if you have the other. Also when clutches are slipping (and clutch is in good shape/new) I am in the school of thought you need more pressure....so all things aside. Motul primary synthetic seems like a good between for performance and longetivity. While engine oil would provide the best protection but worse clutch performance. ATF will provide the best clutch performance but least protection.
On a side note. If you want to keep your life simple. Go with 1Maxima full line or 2Amsoil Full line and life will be good. Ive gotten good results from both but neither have blown me away.
Probably best to stick with one brand for the life of the bike. THis will probably give the best results in the long term and you get to spend more time riding and less time obsessing. But I am OCD and want to find those gems for each hole and so far I have found the following
Engine Oil: Motul 20w50 full synthetic. Broke my 120R in with this from the start based on MICKEY COHENS recommendation after he dyno tuned her. Told me to ride it like I stole it after the dyno run it was basically fully broken in. Just dont hit the rev limit @6200 till 500 miles were on. her. Cant say i listened but the bike purrrs and sounds amazing after 2000 miles zero issues.
Transmission Oil; Spectro has treated me well and I love how they have a gl-1 green dye tranny fluid for my harley original 5 speeds. Yes I know the current GL-5 are backwards compatible now but yea I am weird.
HELP me make a decision on something pointless yet i've been up for the last three days agonizing over this decision LOLOLOL
SIde note: I absolutely love motul engine oil and spectro gear oil for transmission. Both have performed amazing for me with wows when changing and running
I have 2 goals. So might use 2 different primary oils
First Bike; 2001 fxdxt with harley 120R engine with baker 6OD tranny. Has a Heavy duty diaphragm spring and a extra plate clutch pack with those weight aim pressure plate (will upgrading to barnett). Want a performance primary oil.
second and third bike 2001 fxdx, and 2001 fxdwg 2 CVO. Want a solid oil for longevity and something that protects compensator and chain.
ATF:
Used ATF Trick shift type F in a 1994 fxr that had a 130 ultima and barnett clutch. The oil was extremely thin clutch engagement was really good for a perfomance bike. I did not own it long enough to see how the compensator wear was.
My take is this fluid is very thin. Great for clutch engagement may not be the best for primary drivetrain wear.
should be around 7 cst @100C
lowest viscosity out of all primary fluids ive researched and used.
Redline:
Synthetic primary oil with a weight 5w30 (75w80 gear oil) and Vis @ 100°C 10.4 cst.
Seems nice and thin for good clutch engagement and enough viscosity to protect the chain and compensator.
Although I havent been the biggest fan of redline when i tried there gear oil.
People talk down about synthetics in the primary but this one was specially developed for it and not the engine
Motul Primary and chaincase oil:
Another synthetic that has a weight of 10w40 (85w gear oil)
Couldnt find any info on Vis @ 100°C but assuming its around 14-15 cst based on its weight
Again another synthetic specifically made for the primary. Thicker than the redline so may affect clutch engagement but should be good on the chain etc.
One thing Id like to say is the synthetics in theory should degrade less and protect the primary when riding in the desert (I live in socal so this could be a huge benefit). Obviously could just change the primary oil more often but id rather not.
Now on to conventional or semi synthetics
Spectro:
This chain case oil is a 85 weight gear oil and is most likely very similar to the motul synthetic primary fluid
Couldn't find the data but looks to be Vis @ 100°C but assuming its around 14-15 cst based on its weight.
Seems like another good choose with good clutch engagement and protecting the primary.
Also just seems like the same exact thing as the lucas primary oil (which is what is currently in all my bikes)
Only a couple dollars more than lucas....
LUCAS:
Cheap easy to find and has a Vis @ 100°C 14.44 cst. Most likely another 10w40 (85 gear oil)
One thing Ive noticed is after a few thousand miles and some hard riding this fluid smells bad and seems burnt and degraded.
Clutch engagement is nice. Good performing oil but nothing that is a wow. When I switched from amsoil to motul in the engine I noticed a huge difference in blow by and also how new the fluid still looked and smelled when I change it.
Bel Ray:
The lightest weight and lowest viscosity
80w gear oil Viscosity @ 100°C, 9.53 cst
The lowest CST besides ATF. Havent heard the best reviews on this.
IN theory should have the best clutch engagement and least wear protection on the primary parts
I have been researching this hard and long. OCD probably about something that really wont matter....but what are your opinions.
I know all the big clutch companies recommend ATF...might be the best for the clutch pack but what about all the other moving parts....
Thicker oil appears to give the less clutch perfomance...so its kind of like a trade off. IN the performance application go with lowest viscosity and for the bikes i want to run forever with no problems highest viscosity and synthetic??????? MAYBE EVEN SYNTHETIC 20w50...like motuls 7100 thats already in the engine....
For my T sport with the 120R i was thinking the following: With clutch performance at top of priority list
1. ATF Type F or Dexron ( Although i dont want to do this lol)
2. Redline
3. Bel Ray
4. Spectro
5. Motul
For my runners and garage queen:
1. Motul primary and chaincase oil
2.Spectro Primary oil
3.Lucas Primary Oil
Seems like one of those things where you cant have one if you have the other. Also when clutches are slipping (and clutch is in good shape/new) I am in the school of thought you need more pressure....so all things aside. Motul primary synthetic seems like a good between for performance and longetivity. While engine oil would provide the best protection but worse clutch performance. ATF will provide the best clutch performance but least protection.
On a side note. If you want to keep your life simple. Go with 1Maxima full line or 2Amsoil Full line and life will be good. Ive gotten good results from both but neither have blown me away.
Probably best to stick with one brand for the life of the bike. THis will probably give the best results in the long term and you get to spend more time riding and less time obsessing. But I am OCD and want to find those gems for each hole and so far I have found the following
Engine Oil: Motul 20w50 full synthetic. Broke my 120R in with this from the start based on MICKEY COHENS recommendation after he dyno tuned her. Told me to ride it like I stole it after the dyno run it was basically fully broken in. Just dont hit the rev limit @6200 till 500 miles were on. her. Cant say i listened but the bike purrrs and sounds amazing after 2000 miles zero issues.
Transmission Oil; Spectro has treated me well and I love how they have a gl-1 green dye tranny fluid for my harley original 5 speeds. Yes I know the current GL-5 are backwards compatible now but yea I am weird.
HELP me make a decision on something pointless yet i've been up for the last three days agonizing over this decision LOLOLOL
Last edited by dirtyjsgarage; Apr 14, 2024 at 03:22 PM. Reason: added bel rey twice in heading
Funny how the same oil from Wal-Mart in all three holes of both of my motorcycles seems to behave fine and I stopped thinking about it until things like this get posted.
I did find gear oil in the primary of a friend's Sportster. I found that a little amusing. Of all the places where you'd want gear oil, the primary didn't strike me as the one.
That said, PO put gear oil in the trans of my Street Glide, and I changed to 20W-50 and the difference was unrecognizable.
It's almost as if the right amount of oil is more important than even having the right lubricant in the box.
I did find gear oil in the primary of a friend's Sportster. I found that a little amusing. Of all the places where you'd want gear oil, the primary didn't strike me as the one.
That said, PO put gear oil in the trans of my Street Glide, and I changed to 20W-50 and the difference was unrecognizable.
It's almost as if the right amount of oil is more important than even having the right lubricant in the box.
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Soooooo......... tell me again why they shut down the "Oil Thread" and just archived everything? Oil will always be a contentious topic, so why not just let it flow, (hahaha), in it's own thread where ALL the knowledge can be had in one spot, not spread all over the forum in different threads?? Jus wonderling.......
As far as the topic at hand, kind of along the lines of what gonemad said, I've tried a few things and have yet to find a silver bullet.
As far as the topic at hand, kind of along the lines of what gonemad said, I've tried a few things and have yet to find a silver bullet.
Funny how the same oil from Wal-Mart in all three holes of both of my motorcycles seems to behave fine and I stopped thinking about it until things like this get posted.
I did find gear oil in the primary of a friend's Sportster. I found that a little amusing. Of all the places where you'd want gear oil, the primary didn't strike me as the one.
That said, PO put gear oil in the trans of my Street Glide, and I changed to 20W-50 and the difference was unrecognizable.
It's almost as if the right amount of oil is more important than even having the right lubricant in the box.
I did find gear oil in the primary of a friend's Sportster. I found that a little amusing. Of all the places where you'd want gear oil, the primary didn't strike me as the one.
That said, PO put gear oil in the trans of my Street Glide, and I changed to 20W-50 and the difference was unrecognizable.
It's almost as if the right amount of oil is more important than even having the right lubricant in the box.

















