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Broken Ankle

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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 01:35 AM
  #1  
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Default Broken Ankle

Many of you have been there, no doubt. Im looking for some ideas on how to make my 77 shovel start a bit easier. My father passed down the bike some 6 or 7 years ago now. I've got maybe 5k miles on it since then.

Kickstart only.. Its always been a b** to start cold. Sometimes i'll get it to sputter within a few kicks. But seems to be very temperamental with fuel, and i can be sitting there kicking 50x until the battery dies. And... sometimes when she's nearly ready to turn over, it'll send that damn kicker back up and send my knee to my chin, nearly breaking my ankle in the process. When its warm its easy.

Without tearing the damn thing apart and doing full rebuild, I am looking for recommendations on what to do to make this a bit easier to start.

Here's what I know so far.
--1977 Shovel 74" stroker (was initially told it was stroked to 80", later the old man told me 86")
--Was told Truett & Osborne flywheels, although i cannot see a serial number indicating such through the timing hole.
--Good fuel & clean jets
--SS Super B Shorty carb with Jets: Main = 0.070, intermediate = 0.028
--Andrews B cam
--Solid lifters & freshly adjusted pushrods
--Autolite 4256 with .030 gap with points (0.018 gap on the money)
--Battery: AGM 12v 6AH (Xtreme XTAZ7S) (custom oil bag due to lowered seat)
--Ported and polished intake & heads by Jerry Branch
--Drag pipes

Additional Notes
1. Cannot set static spark timing due as there is no TDC mark on flywheel
2. S&S recommends jets
----For 84"+ stroker: main= 0.072 - 0.082 intermediate= 0.031 - 0.033
3. After 6 months sitting over winter, adjusted pushrods. Cold compression 60 - 65 psi both cylinders, not yet started.

The old girl was running rough in the fall and harder to start than normal. It needed a pushrod adjustment. After adjusting the pushrods a few days ago that heathen bastard kicked me so hard I wanted to put it out to pasture... Needless to say I have yet to do a proper compression test. Sure felt solid to me though.. When its on, she runs like a bat outta hell, so im not inclined at this time to lean toward compression issues.

Thanks in advance
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 01:54 AM
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sounds like you need to somehow retard the ign to kickstart it, maybe an electronic ignition
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 02:40 AM
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I've seen a bad advance unit act the way you describe. I did not see the condition of the centrifugal ignition unit mentioned in your post. I've changed out worn ones for new and it was like night and day with the way the motor starts and runs. Might be worth a check-see/ change out.
Also, hard to believe no flywheel timing marks, especially for full advance, front cylinder. I'd look into that farther too. Should be about 35* BTDC
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 02:56 AM
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I致e played with the spark advance a little, challenging though without the TDC mark. I致e taken the plugs out, put a skewer stick in the front cylinder and gotten pretty close to TDC, no mark. I called Truett and Osborne the other day, they said there痴 no way they didn稚 put the advance and TDC marks on the flywheels.

As for the advance unit, I checked it today, the springs seem tight and the weights snap right back. Not sure if replacements vary in weights or spring stiffness, I値l need to do some research. I致e attached a photo of the unit
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 08:02 AM
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Hard starting issues, always start with an intake manifold leak test.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by FL54
Hard starting issues, always start with an intake manifold leak test.
^^ Good advice... and it is Not that difficult to find TDC... pull a Plug!!!
Do Not kick it so Damn hard... especially if it has a Bit of Compression... a well tuned '80" mid to high compression Shovel, is likely to Start just rolling over to find "Stroke"... Walk up to it and simply put the boots to it like a DirtBike????= Failure...
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 09:53 AM
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Agree on manifold intake leak test.

Also, might consider changing out the condenser. Brother-in-law has a 50 Pan. Years back he was having hard start problems. I changed out his Made in Mexico condenser with an original Delco Remy and problem of hard kick start problem was solved.

Just a thought...
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
Agree on manifold intake leak test.

Also, might consider changing out the condenser. Brother-in-law has a 50 Pan. Years back he was having hard start problems. I changed out his Made in Mexico condenser with an original Delco Remy and problem of hard kick start problem was solved.

Just a thought...
and if ya do get it running with a Poor/Bad Condenser... not gonna come far off idle and it will pop and Gag!!!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 03:20 PM
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Thank you all for your feedback.

She does like the pop and gag when cold trying to start. Almost seems like I知 never giving it enough fuel.

If the advance unit springs and loosening up, seems to me that would have much effect on flashing the bike up, but rather high rpm performance would be affected. Correct me if I知 wrong here.

ive got a spare condenser, I値l slap that on first and retard the spark a little. We値l see how well it fires up, once I can get it running I値l check the intake for leaks with some spray fogging oil or starting fluid.

any one got comments on the Andrews B cam with this configuration?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2018 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Haji


any one got comments on the Andrews B cam with this configuration?
While many dislike the "B" cam... if you have compression, it works pretty good... I just don't use Higher RPM's anymore on the Street, so the "B" is not for me anymore..
for lower compression... I like the #1 personally.
or even the good ole Harley O.E. "H" cam... hard to beat really...
BTW Compression is Not something that comes in a box... the actual compression is very often Much different than the specs implied by manufacturers.. Gotta check yer own self, in my experience.
 
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