This bike has been a wiring nightmare. I finally got it to turn over but has not spark. I know I know. This has been flogged to death. There is a Dyna 2000i ignition system in the bike. It has a dual fire coil. There are 3 wires coming from the Dyna, pink, white and green. The pink wire is connected to the top lug of the coil. The bottom has 2 whites connected. One white comes from the Dyna and the other is continually hot, assuming battery? The green disappears under the tanks and runs up the backbone.

Even with the ignition off the coil is hot on both lugs which seems not right? But if the second white at the bottom lug is to the battery it makes sense. I'm not sure what the previous owner has done here? My question after a long dissertation is? Should this be hot all the time? I haven't ever heard of that. Or, should it be dead with the switch off? That is my way of thinking. Or is it all killed by the kill switch? Bike is electric start, been setting for 12 years in a garage.

 

Just what year and model bike or you working on ..???

https://www.dynaonline.com/motorcycle-dyna-2000i/

 

74 Shovelhead. Bike is super clean and I paid nothing for it. Stock, except for the Super E as far as I know. Previous owner wasn't much help with info on the bike. I've checked wiring per Dyna website and all is proper according to their instructions. My main concern is why the coil is hot with everything off. Tomorrow is ohm meter time. Didn't have time tonight.

 

The (bike harness) white to the coil should be switched. Generally, that goes from the main switch>breaker>run/off switch>coil. The power feed for the start button is tied to the start/run at the handlebar switches.

When properly wired, the D2ki module should blink the red led (once) when switched on.

From the module -
Green wire is for a tachometer.
Blue not used for dual fire
White Switched 12v
Pink trigger for coil
Violet to voes. If no voes, I recommend to ground that wire. That will make the advance operate similar to mechanical advance. Otherwise you'll wonder why the mileage and power are both below expectations.

 

Not sure I would put the vows to ground on a shovel these motors tend to hold heat a little more than an Evo so that sudden advance will most likely cause detonation on a hard throttle coming up through the RPM range. What I do recommend is putting a toggle switch on the purple wire to ground.. This way whenever you're cruising or just moderate driving you can ground the wire when you like and increase your gas mileage.. I did it to my 77, it worked great..

 

Finally found the problem this morning. Broken wire to the kill switch. Solder and shrink tube, all is right. Thanks for the help.

 

I have the same ignition using this single fire coil https://www.dragspecialties.com/sear...umber-21020021

It’s a pretty sophisticated ignition. I know mine is set on the more aggressive advance curve - 1 I think. it is and set for E-start. Basically to my understanding kick start setting requires only 1 revolution to fire. E-start I understand wants to see 3 crank revolutions. I will say it runs stong and idles so rock steady. With two complete hip replacements it’s safer for me to rely only on the E-start. Popping out any of my Frankenstein parts would ruin me for a long time. I do miss kicking a shovel over, that would complete my sensory feedback from this resto-rebuild. I changed my first shovel to kick only, damn reliable even with the early HD V Fire 1 ignition. Heck, I was a young I gun. Had a really embarrassing moment doing that once I’m saving for a future post.

 

"Had a really embarrassing moment doing that once I’m saving for a future post."
Like kicking it 20+times in the hot sun, to then observe the kill switch is toggled off.

 

Sorry...But I doubt that a Broken wire was Causing Heat...Only if it was Pinched to Ground (shorted)... besides...if stock wiring...the wires to the Handlebar controls are Not Hot except with Keyswitch ON