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help with oiling problem

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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 02:42 PM
  #11  
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thank you again gents. the lifters are noisy. I'll get the seal in next week and see what happens.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #12  
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final post on this one. put new seal, springs and gaskets in pump. also mounted an oil pressure sending unit to front of pump. same outcome, oil pressure (gauge mounted at lifter block screen) drops to zero hot, idle or revved. however, the light never even flickers. so, we will run it with a light and make an ashtray out of the gauge.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 09:14 PM
  #13  
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From: la la land jerzey
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the china **** has really wiped out the parts reliablity

you could try adding Lucas oil stablizer to the oil we see a difference hot idle - 1/2 quart lucas to the 3 quarts you already have -- jz
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 04:21 PM
  #14  
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ok, back to square one. second ride the light started flickering at idle. pulled the lifter block screen and no oil when running. I pulled the cone and I don't see anything wrong. one rebuilder stated that the only thing that will cause no oil pressure is a worn cam bushing or lower end bearings. looking at the oil flow through the cone it appears that the oil feeds into the end of the crankshaft and that the cam bushing is just drilled to receive oil from the timing chest. the lifter to lifter block clearance does not feel excessive (I have no way of measuring clearance). the oil pump "looked" fine, I changed the seal and springs. what is the possibility that the pump is just not able to produce enough volume with hot oil? I mean, there is NO oil coming out of the lifter block screen hole when the engine is hot. cold, pressure is 35-40 psi. man, I don't want to spring for a new pump and end up with the same issue. HELP
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #15  
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From: la la land jerzey
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you need to start over -- i am not looking at the bike you are soooo--- first thing is check and see if you have any kinks in the oil tank to oil pump hose -

if its a real cheap hose it could have Collapsed and not letting oil into the pump -

empty the oil tank and look in to the area if you have the big cap type and see if something is blocking the oil exit to the pump - again you need to check everything first before buying anything -

they sell heavy springs if its a pressure issue / you can put some 4 or 5 small washers on the top of the pressure spring as a test, that will do the same thing as a stronger spring < NOTE the washers will need to stay in place so you may need to mod larger ones to fit so they actually work as a spring lift and stay in place once installed --

did you replace the bottom fitting on the oil lines going to the top end - the one at the base of the block is a special size < was the engine apart than this happened -- jz
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #16  
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the first thing I did was check the lines and pulled and cleaned the tank. the oil pump was looked at by shop and they didn't "see" anything other than a worn seal. I replaced the seal, gaskets, check ball and both springs with no change. the fitting from the block to the rocker oil line has not been changed that I know of. son bought bike from boss with no oil light or gauge on it and we installed both. I did notice on the inside of the cone, where the oil passage feeds the crank (?) and lower bushing there is a screw that has been installed on the far side of the oil passage that comes out behind the bushing. I don't know if someone installed it as a "stop" for the bushing. it sure does not look stock. anyway, thank you for your input, it is much appreciated!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #17  
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I forgot to mention, when we had it idling, tappet screen plug out with no oil flowing, we did pull the oil tank filter cap off and could see a steady flow of oil returning from the pump.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #18  
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 08:55 PM
  #19  
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From: la la land jerzey
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AS it is an 1976 the oiling system in the bike is what is called a end oiler

so we are on the same page the cam cover if its an original it has an OEM part number in it - what is it -- i read what you said about the screw and the bushing --

this is what it should have

one - > the pinion shaft is an end oiler meaning oil enters the end of it ( not the side of the shaft that is in the bushing ) and it should have a restrictor in the end of the shaft OR you will need a drill bit in different sizes to try and determin about what size the hole in the shaft really is, it is important as it acts as a restrictor --

two - > the cam cover == NOW they Harley changed some things in the way the oil was blead off and my guess in this is, someone put the screw in the blead off oil hole trying to boost the pressure and it still is not working correctly >>>>> if the lower unit is worn out it can have an affect on the oil pressure but you did not say the lower unit is also noizy, with the lifters being the noize assuming your lifters is actually the noize you are hearing and not the rods chattering <

OK this motor is making how much oil pressure when its first started from COLD over night < does it peg the gage 60 / 100 pound dont know what one you are using ????????

and how long does it run before it stops pumping 2 min 5 min ??????? or is it not pumping all along ?????????
 
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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 09:05 PM
  #20  
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From: la la land jerzey
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i went back and re read some of what you wrote -- a cold shovel will peg a 100 pound gage at start up with a tight motor, and it will take a ride for a few blocks before it comes back to 30 PSI and yours start out at 30 PSI -

that is what is going on you have a massive oil blead off i do not know what is doing it but you bought this problem with this bike my guess

it is very possable someone who knows nothing and has a set of wrenches worked on it and now you will need some product experence to fix this, as it is not doing anything like it should and someone has already chased it and gave up

are you mechanical inclined -- do you have the ability to tackel a real issue like this ??? jz
 
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