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This may very basic but how do I get the temp reading from the sensor?
Not exactly sure what you are asking...but I will give it a shot. Sportys only have idiot lights (indicators). It does not show your the engine temp. To get the temp, you need to install a temp gauge like Dakota, use a heat indicator gun, or use something like Powervision which obtains the data via the diagnostics connector.
@SLV and @Scuba10jdl - Thank you to both of you.
When inquiring on the forum and I always weed out inconsistent information, Many are just providing opinions or responses based on personal experiences and may not apply or be entirely true.
With respect to Engine Temp (Cylinder Head Temp), both of you and a few others have said their bikes run near 400 which leads me to believe 380 is "normal"....which is a huge relief. Now just waiting for clarification from Devin of DK as to his explanation/comment since I bought the PowerVision from them. I did ask if PV ET is the same measurement as head temp. The autotune manual did state min temp 280 and max temp 410 for Sportsters. He has not responded yet which is highly unusual from anyone at DK, but I know he is swamped (crazy busy).
But still like to hear from others as to their ET (cylinder head temp).
Devin left out of the shop early on Friday. Sorry he did not get back with you. Also, apologies for the wrong info he gave you originally. He was probably thinking of a Twin Cam.
The Sportster is the most "honest" engine HD is currently making. The sensor is reading at the top of the rear cylinder. It is not even warmed up until 280*, and normal operating temps range between 350-420 off that sensor (which the PV displays as ET).
On Twin Cams the sensor is near the intake valve of the front cylinder. It is warmed up around 170*, and normal operating temps range between 210-230. (however, the Twin Cams have a real heat issue, and it is not unusual to see them higher than 300...while this is normal, it is NOT good).
Even at 230*, the Twin Cam is running Hotter than the Sportster at 400*. How? The temp on the front cylinder (front cylinders are always cooler) near the intake valve (which is the coolest part of the head) is an artificially low number. Taking the temp on the rear cylinder, right above the combustion chamber, gives a much more informed reading of the engine temp. Since there is no sensor on the Twin Cam at the center top of the rear cylinder (and no way to shoot a infrared in there), I don't know how hot that is getting, but it's a pretty safe bet it is MORE than 400*.
The temps you're getting are fine. If you ever get stuck in hot weather, in stop & go, you might see it creep up to 420*, if it starts going higher, I would either shut down, or get some air moving over the engine.
My 883, converted to a 1250, will run all day long, in 100* ambient temps, and will range between 380 and 410, depending on how hard I running.
Devin left out of the shop early on Friday. Sorry he did not get back with you. Also, apologies for the wrong info he gave you originally. He was probably thinking of a Twin Cam.
The Sportster is the most "honest" engine HD is currently making. The sensor is reading at the top of the rear cylinder. It is not even warmed up until 280*, and normal operating temps range between 350-420 off that sensor (which the PV displays as ET).
On Twin Cams the sensor is near the intake valve of the front cylinder. It is warmed up around 170*, and normal operating temps range between 210-230. (however, the Twin Cams have a real heat issue, and it is not unusual to see them higher than 300...while this is normal, it is NOT good).
Even at 230*, the Twin Cam is running Hotter than the Sportster at 400*. How? The temp on the front cylinder (front cylinders are always cooler) near the intake valve (which is the coolest part of the head) is an artificially low number. Taking the temp on the rear cylinder, right above the combustion chamber, gives a much more informed reading of the engine temp. Since there is no sensor on the Twin Cam at the center top of the rear cylinder (and no way to shoot a infrared in there), I don't know how hot that is getting, but it's a pretty safe bet it is MORE than 400*.
The temps you're getting are fine. If you ever get stuck in hot weather, in stop & go, you might see it creep up to 420*, if it starts going higher, I would either shut down, or get some air moving over the engine.
My 883, converted to a 1250, will run all day long, in 100* ambient temps, and will range between 380 and 410, depending on how hard I running.
Thanks Kevin for your response. Hope you are having a fun and productive trip. I also posted a couple questions on the PV sticky thread for minor issues I am having with tuning and the unit. I got a few suggested resolutions to the issues but I will email those questions to get the solutions from the horses mouth if you will...lol. I guess you are posting pics of your road trip after you return.
The max on my dakota digital is 410...I think...the engine temp trumped the digital rpm read out at 414 degrees once when it idled for a while. Am running a vied along with AN big sucker 2 and American Custom open slip ons. The highway temp is 350 and less at 70-75 mph.
Being a novice at scrutinizing the ride instead of just jumping on and riding, how does that engine temp sound to the more knowledgeable.
The max on my dakota digital is 410...I think...the engine temp trumped the digital rpm read out at 414 degrees once when it idled for a while. Am running a vied along with AN big sucker 2 and American Custom open slip ons. The highway temp is 350 and less at 70-75 mph.
Being a novice at scrutinizing the ride instead of just jumping on and riding, how does that engine temp sound to the more knowledgeable.
Your temp sounds normal. As mentioned on this thread, normal temp for a Sporty is 280-410. I normally run around 360-380 on the highway and sometimes run over 410 when I am in heavy stop and go traffic.
I was just reading over this thread with some interest and thought I would resurrect/add to some readings I've taken over the Summer months.
I have a handheld infrared temperature reader with a laser targeting beam so I can get a pretty good idea where the thing is reading. IS it scientifically accurate? It seems to be pretty close to the + or - 2 degrees it states.
I also have one of those combination Digital oil level/temperature gauge filler caps on the Oil Tank and also crossed checked it's reading with the hand held infrared reader. Both read within a degree or two.
I was curious how hot the engine, oil, and exhaust pipes got after 20 to 30 minute rides and longer in Summer temperature of low 80's to mid 90's. In the upper 80's to low 90's, as you all know, when stopping at traffic lights the heat can really pour off the engine.
So, for the most part, after short rides of 20 to 30 minutes, in the above conditions, I get readings of 210F to 220F for the engine oil in the tank, and 364F to 375F or so taking readings at the cylinder head in various locations near the spark plug area. I've also taken readings of the exhaust port areas, headers, and pipes and they are much lower in in the 250F to 300F range generally depending on how long a ride.
On longer rides of several hours, it was interesting that as long as the bike was moving, the readings did not get much higher. I have seen Oil Tank temps of 205F to 220F degrees tops, but mostly around 210F. Engine cylinder head temps always seemed to measure in the 370F to 396F range on the longer rides in the above lower 80 to mid 90F ambient temps.
I made all these measurements as soon as I got off the bike, letting the engine idle, and hitting the various spots with the infrared temp gauge. Usually, this took only 15 to 20 seconds tops.
I also took measurements after the engine was turned off and, depending on ambient temperatures, the engine temps would noticeably start to drop off within 10 to 15 seconds.
Last edited by JayTee2015; Sep 21, 2016 at 07:32 AM.
I was just reading over this thread with some interest and thought I would resurrect/add to some readings I've taken over the Summer months.
I have a handheld infrared temperature reader with a laser targeting beam so I can get a pretty good idea where the thing is reading. IS it scientifically accurate? It seems to be pretty close to the + or - 2 degrees it states.
I also have one of those combination Digital oil level/temperature gauge filler caps on the Oil Tank and also crossed checked it's reading with the hand held infrared reader. Both read within a degree or two.
I was curious how hot the engine, oil, and exhaust pipes got after 20 to 30 minute rides and longer in Summer temperature of low 80's to mid 90's. In the upper 80's to low 90's, as you all know, when stopping at traffic lights the heat can really pour off the engine.
So, for the most part, after short rides of 20 to 30 minutes, in the above conditions, I get readings of 210F to 220F for the engine oil in the tank, and 364F to 375F or so taking readings at the cylinder head in various locations near the spark plug area. I've also taken readings of the exhaust port areas, headers, and pipes and they are much lower in in the 250F to 300F range generally depending on how long a ride.
On longer rides of several hours, it was interesting that as long as the bike was moving, the readings did not get much higher. I have seen Oil Tank temps of 220F to 225F degrees tops, but mostly around 220F. Engine cylinder head temps always seemed to measure in the 370F to 396F range on the longer rides in the above lower 80 to mid 90F ambient temps.
I made all these measurements as soon as I got off the bike, letting the engine idle, and hitting the various spots with the infrared temp gauge. Usually, this took only 15 to 20 seconds tops.
I also took measurements after the engine was turned off and, depending on ambient temperatures, the engine temps would noticeably start to drop off within 10 to 15 seconds.
Except when used on metals. My Professional Fluke IR Temp Gun has an higher error % when using it on metals that reflect the beam that is greater than when you use it on a surface where the beam is not effected.
Except when used on metals. My Professional Fluke IR Temp Gun has an higher error % when using it on metals that reflect the beam that is greater than when you use it on a surface where the beam is not effected.
Though your temps seem well within safe measures.
Great info and thread!
Yes, I agree. Good thing the cylinder heads are black in the areas I measured. The infrared meter I have warns about measuring off of reflective surfaces and I was aware of that so measured in appropriate areas.
Shiny exhaust pipes, well, were just a shot in the dark to see what readings I got.
I have a 2016 Iron. I had collected some data with the ProTuner after doing the SE Air Cleaner upgrade.... didn't really pay attention to the engine temperature at that time.
I then did the SE 1200 upgrade and learned a little about the ET sensor since i had to make a special tool to remove and re-install it. I completed the 1200 upgrade and started to collect data for tuning, along the way bumping into this thread. Also at the same time i did the 1200 upgrade I installed a engine guard and soft lowers.
I was rather alarmed that after my 1200 upgrade my engine temps were consistently hitting 400+ degF. I then checked my data when then bike was still an 883 and noticed much better temperatures in the low to mid 300's. Thinking maybe tuning could help and i was running lean i tried tuning some more. Didn't seem to help. What helped a lot was removing the soft lowers. Temperatures come back into the mid 300's. Obviously the soft lowers affect cooling to the engine. Didn't think it would affect it this much. All three of these plots are riding a similar course. Hopefully this is useful for others.
Below is initial data on the 883 after the SE A/C and without soft lowers
883 with SE Air Cleaner (no soft lowers)
Below is data after the SE 1200 upgrade and with soft lowers
SE 1200 with soft lowers
Below is data after the SE 1200 upgrade WITHOUT soft lowers
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